Nik's Poulan Thread

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How is everyone doing anyway?

Been quiet. I hope to get my 4000 into some blugum in the next few weeks I've been taking it easy with a busted ankle but getting back to it now and got a gazillion cords of macro and doug fir to split before I get into this blue gum.

It's a nice size wood I'm told so hopefully the 4000 can really get a good working on it. The huge stuff I've been into just was not the place and as you guys know they don't clear noodles very well so the Mac's got most of the fun.

I have kinda loose anti vibe mounts at the moment what's the common fix for this? I can't find any and was thinking of cutting up some inner tube shims/washers to fill up the gap.

Any way merry weekend to all:)
 
Ok well I had to run some saws today just well.. you guys know why any way so hear is my 1 and only green saw that got painted orange. (Must of run out of green)



This thing just pulls I really put the weight on it through a cut hear n just pulls on through. Cant wait to get out cutting again
 
Well I put together a 3400 and had a 18" total bar (vintage) , I was a little disappointed in the power of a saw of this stature? After reading a couple of dozen posts most people agree that the muffler is a real choke point on this saw ,so I didn't want to butcher it because I'm gifting it to a young guy who can't afford a new pro saw.
I figured I could slice 2 trapezoidal ports under the heat shield and use a couple of washers to lift the sheild.
All I can say is WOW what a difference it made in the power of that saw ,definitely gonna put one together for myself now.20191027_183253.jpg 20191027_183257.jpg 20191027_183303.jpg 20191027_183333.jpg 20191027_183245.jpg 20191027_183346.jpg
 
I seem to be getting a little thick skulled with age. My 3700 will start and run OK. stop it and it will not restart while hot not even with a shot into the carb. I am thinking too much air,but why would it not stall then while running. Its been awhile since I played with it since it stumped me.
 
Well I put together a 3400 and had a 18" total bar (vintage) , I was a little disappointed in the power of a saw of this stature? After reading a couple of dozen posts most people agree that the muffler is a real choke point on this saw ,so I didn't want to butcher it because I'm gifting it to a young guy who can't afford a new pro saw.
I figured I could slice 2 trapezoidal ports under the heat shield and use a couple of washers to lift the sheild.
All I can say is WOW what a difference it made in the power of that saw ,definitely gonna put one together for myself now.View attachment 768966 View attachment 768967 View attachment 768968 View attachment 768969 View attachment 768970 View attachment 768971
Looks like someone tried cleaning the cylinder cover with some strong cleaner, been there done that mistake.

Steve Sidwell
 
Well I put together a 3400 and had a 18" total bar (vintage) , I was a little disappointed in the power of a saw of this stature? After reading a couple of dozen posts most people agree that the muffler is a real choke point on this saw ,so I didn't want to butcher it because I'm gifting it to a young guy who can't afford a new pro saw.
I figured I could slice 2 trapezoidal ports under the heat shield and use a couple of washers to lift the sheild.
All I can say is WOW what a difference it made in the power of that saw ,definitely gonna put one together for myself now.View attachment 768966 View attachment 768967 View attachment 768968 View attachment 768969 View attachment 768970 View attachment 768971
If you open up the baffle openings, you'll see more improvement. I put an extra exit on the side similar to the 4000 muffler. To be honest I'm not how much power improvement there was as opposed to a bit louder.
 
Went outside today to do a little cutting. I got the ole Poulan 3800 out I had not run it in about 3 years. Saw is running really good and can hold its own in the 60cc class. The saw does have a few mods which does not hurt.
This saw has the plastic clutch cover which is a little wider then the magnesium ones and seems to clear noodles pretty good. It was 20* out today.

I was cutting up this elm and anybody who has split elm knows what a pain it is. So I noodle it all. Less stress and I like running my saws.

IMG_1324.JPG
IMG_1327.JPG
 
Went outside today to do a little cutting. I got the ole Poulan 3800 out I had not run it in about 3 years. Saw is running really good and can hold its own in the 60cc class. The saw does have a few mods which does not hurt.
This saw has the plastic clutch cover which is a little wider then the magnesium ones and seems to clear noodles pretty good. It was 20* out today.

I was cutting up this elm and anybody who has split elm knows what a pain it is. So I noodle it all. Less stress and I like running my saws.

View attachment 769168
View attachment 769169

I see the white stuff. :cheers:

You get hammered with all that snow MT got a little bit back?
 
After reading a couple of dozen posts most people agree that the muffler is a real choke point on this saw ,so I didn't want to butcher it because I'm gifting it to a young guy who can't afford a new pro saw.
I figured I could slice 2 trapezoidal ports under the heat shield and use a couple of washers to lift the sheild.
All I can say is WOW what a difference it made in the power of that saw ,definitely gonna put one together for myself now.

I just Dremel cut “squares” out of the baffle on top & bottom, using the nine holes as a guide. Put the screen back on for firesafe operation.

Then open a hole on the upper right side & braze in a 3/4” copper street ell with high temp silver solder. Trim about 5/8” off the ell straight run, so it sets flush when brazed with a little ~1/16” protrusion inside.

Not a problem with any of them, have modded 15-20 that way, plus it keeps you from burning up the top covers.

You’ll have to make a half moon slice out of the rear deflector to clear the tube ell at the back.

A2C6B9C6-3091-4237-9836-985FC425A00B.jpeg
 
I just Dremel cut “squares” out of the baffle on top & bottom, using the nine holes as a guide. Put the screen back on for firesafe operation.

Then open a hole on the upper right side & braze in a 3/4” copper street ell with high temp silver solder. Trim about 5/8” off the ell straight run, so it sets flush when brazed with a little ~1/16” protrusion inside.

Not a problem with any of them, have modded 15-20 that way, plus it keeps you from burning up the top covers.

You’ll have to make a half moon slice out of the rear deflector to clear the tube ell at the back.

View attachment 769174

That looks great.
 

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