Poulan XXV Automatic?

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I printed one at work once I’ll check tomorow to see if I saved the file I found or screenshot you the one I printed it I can find it at home tonight.
 
Need a Illustrated Parts list?

I found additional model number info on the saw in small letters S25CVA, 38CCM and found a IPL at chainsaw collectors.

Saw was given to me for parts and noticed that it is all complete and a low hour OLD saw and paint in good shape.
Saw would run briefly when primed, fuel line bad, gas tank has fine aluminum particles inside, and the unit has a Walbro WA19A carb.

If I get it running for use as a ATV top handle saw it will need a 57DL, .050 3/8 pitch chain.
 
I found additional model number info on the saw in small letters S25CVA, 38CCM and found a IPL at chainsaw collectors.

Saw was given to me for parts and noticed that it is all complete and a low hour OLD saw and paint in good shape.
Saw would run briefly when primed, fuel line bad, gas tank has fine aluminum particles inside, and the unit has a Walbro WA19A carb.

If I get it running for use as a ATV top handle saw it will need a 57DL, .050 3/8 pitch chain.
Won't find a stronger 38cc top handled saw . it runs a 3/8 lo pro chain normally.
 
Won't find a stronger 38cc top handled saw . it runs a 3/8 lo pro chain normally.


The old chain and bar appears to have been oiling ok. Saw has most likely not been operated in approx 5 years or so due to mainly bad chain that had jumped off the roller tipped bar.
I've got a new tygon fuel line installed yesterday evening late and a clean fuel filter but need to flush the fuel tank before trying for a test run. The old clogged fuel line filter was still in place inside the tank so no immediate trash sent to the carb. The aluminum inside the tank has cancer and is shedding small aluminum grit. I'm thinking maybe use vinegar soak and rattle around something inside to loosen the grit first then even leave some nuts and bolts inside the tank when running the saw for awhile. Appears maybe the saw was stored with small amount of ethanol fuel in the tank because when I first dumped the tank a small amount of water was present.

Appears maybe a Craftsman 2.1 saw is similar saw. Confirmed with a search just now.


I'm looking for a owners manual for a SV25CVA or a S25DA to download?

I just now stumbled onto a owners manual at this link during a search for Craftsman 2.1 and came up with a Sears model 358.350870 and the manual contained 3 of these Poulan/Sears/Craftsman models.

https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/5...?6cc5364512aff4079e43cb8f42d96417&take=binary


I'll get back with the latest after I try to get a test fire run.
 
The old chain and bar appears to have been oiling ok. Saw has most likely not been operated in approx 5 years or so due to mainly bad chain that had jumped off the roller tipped bar.
I've got a new tygon fuel line installed yesterday evening late and a clean fuel filter but need to flush the fuel tank before trying for a test run. The old clogged fuel line filter was still in place inside the tank so no immediate trash sent to the carb. The aluminum inside the tank has cancer and is shedding small aluminum grit. I'm thinking maybe use vinegar soak and rattle around something inside to loosen the grit first then even leave some nuts and bolts inside the tank when running the saw for awhile. Appears maybe the saw was stored with small amount of ethanol fuel in the tank because when I first dumped the tank a small amount of water was present.

Appears maybe a Craftsman 2.1 saw is similar saw. Confirmed with a search just now.


I'm looking for a owners manual for a SV25CVA or a S25DA to download?

I just now stumbled onto a owners manual at this link during a search for Craftsman 2.1 and came up with a Sears model 358.350870 and the manual contained 3 of these Poulan/Sears/Craftsman models.

https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/5...?6cc5364512aff4079e43cb8f42d96417&take=binary


I'll get back with the latest after I try to get a test fire run.
Check your inbox for the Craftsman owners manual and 2 service manuals.
 
Check your inbox for the Craftsman owners manual and 2 service manuals.

Got them saved in a folder. Very good info.
I sent you a PM type inbox reply.
I'm not getting email updates to this thread, have to return to site for updates????
J
ust now seen the replies in my junk mail, problem fixed.

Good to hear that several guys think this little green machine Poulan 38cc top handle is worth testing out. The engine sounded strong when test primed. I have other top handle small saws that I've repaired for myself and have never been a Poulan/Craftsman fan and just tossed this one in a storage tub few months ago for looking at later, but this one seems now to be a worthwhile saw to test, better made than the later model Craftsman/Poulans plastic ones.
 
Get the tank cleaned out well, then get a POR15 kit. Can be found online. I used this for a tractor tank. Works perfect for steel. Verify its good for Magnesium tanks. It stops the rust, then has a coating to seal. Little pricey, but you should have enough to do several.
When running right, you will love this saw. Has enough grunt to take on way bigger stuff than you should be cutting with it.
I know more than one person that had one for their only firewood gathering saw for years.
 
Preliminary: Got the tank cleaned out enough for a test start and run. Engine starts, idles and runs good and sounds strong. Only had a few minutes of spare time to look at the little green beast.
Was kinda a surprised that the carb does not need a cleaning or kit. Saw bar oiler auto and manual worked good.
Gas cap leaks due to the check vent valve flap in the cap rotted out. (can see light thru the little top hole in the gas cap. Will eventually try to rig a vent check valve (duckbill), grub screw type or sinter iron valve similar to Homie to fit inside the obselete NLA Poulan cap if the saw continues to indicate it's worth a save. I do not see any later model Poulan/Craftsman caps that look like a fittament replacement?

I've used the red kote epoxy tank coating on engine steel tanks. Preliminary indicates that it appears this aluminum/magnesium tank is going to clean out ok and stop shedding and no holes in the tank. I briefly ran the saw with some 3/8 nuts rattling around in the fuel tank and a flashlight indicated it's cleaning good and the fuel filter can be taken out easily for a regular cleaning. I've been into some really old Mac fuel tanks that had a brown type mold from long term storage when the tank was dry that would get past the in tank filter and clog the carb screens. Very hard to get those tanks cleaned of the brown/black mold.

Next will be installing the rusty (some parts of the chain has rusted stiff due to being in water) worn out chain to check the bar and clutch, and make a air filter and screen for more testing in the cut.
 
Okie

Glad to see you getting this thing going and found the diagrams. If we have the same or simlilar these have became some of my favorite little saws, partly because my kids built one with me this past summer. It also seems to be a good little saw. Mine may be newer as I have plastic gas tanks in all three of mine. Same issues with the gas caps you have, shoved some cork in there once, only worked short term.

I was going to mildly port the one I had my kids assemble but the transfer intake and exhaust ports were surprisingly clean, made stuff good back then. I don’t yet know enough to adjust timing other than a gasket delete correction so I left it alone.

I’ve also come to like the 250a models. Also made under many many names.

Good luck with it. Take some pics for us. Think all I have is a video of me shirtless using mine on my first run after rebuild, y’all ain’t interested in that. Lol.
 
Heres a fix for the tank vent.
Use a piece of ink pen ink tube. Ream the hole in the cap until the tube presses in or add a dab of superglue to hold it. Then press the duckbill valve over the tube. Done.1102191329.jpg 1102191329a.jpg 1102191328.jpg
 
Got the old worn out rusty chain loosened up enough for a test run in the wood. Saw starts idles, piss rev's, oils and acted good.

I made a tank vent using a Homelite type duckbill Oregon 07-004. The cap still had the little retainer type star washer in place and I removed the star washer and then I installed the duckbill and used the star washer to retain the duckbill in place in the tank side of the cap. It was a good fit inside the cap's recessed hole.Took little bit of finesse to get the duckbill installed inside the star washer's hole. I also made a new air filter using a Briggs small engine Foam air filter 27987.

Ordered a new chain.

Its a keeper.

Thanks for all the info.
 
Heres a fix for the tank vent.
Use a piece of ink pen ink tube. Ream the hole in the cap until the tube presses in or add a dab of superglue to hold it. Then press the duckbill valve over the tube. Done.View attachment 778485 View attachment 778486 View attachment 778487

Brent: Thanks for the tip. I was tinking maybe someone had some ideas for a modded tank vent using the OEM gas cap. I've had to use the ink pen tubes as you suggested or remove the insulation from around a #10 romex solid copper wire to make a correct size hollow tube to make duckbill adapters for different sizes of the hoses.
 
I noticed I had a 18 inch used Poulan bar and 62DL lp non-kickback type good sharp chain that fit on the saw.
I installed the 18 incher and put the little saw into a full bar cut on a green pine log and could not believe how it just eat it up.

I was concerned that the OEM 16 inch bar would be too much for the little feller. The S25CVS has lots of grunt for it 38CC size. The LP chain is what lets it do it's thing. (gets a smaller bite)

It reminded me of a piss ant carrying a bale of hay.;)
 
Yep, these little ones will surprise you. If you really want a little mule with big feet, get a Homelite Super EZ.
Those things have bawlzz!
 
Yep, these little ones will surprise you. If you really want a little mule with big feet, get a Homelite Super EZ.
Those things have bawlzz!

I use some (4 or 5) of the Super EZ's. (was given about 3 due to not running and donors did not know that the EZ's are really a good saw, built for the long haul) I have one super EZ that I bought new around 1978 and have only replaced chains and 1 carb kit because it was in storage and not used for about 4 years. Still have original receipt and owners manual. Think it was around $175 when new. Bought a good non runner that had good chain and bar and complete saw not long ago for $10. (jug was leaking at the base to block)
Vib's from the EZ's seems little more than this little Poulan.

Still remember trying to get the carb linkage back on the underside of the Ez carb first time I flogged a EZ carb.:eek::chainsaw::wtf: ;)
I now have a easy recipe for EZ carb re-installiation.
 
Put the S25 in the woodlot today with a new Oregon chain installed on the 16 inch bar as a trim saw after getting the tree down. Ran good and will cut the full length of the 16 inch bar with power to spare. Really a good light powerful easy to start trim saw.

Did not know that Poulan ever made a good reliable type saw.:):happybanana:

I have couple of the later model Craftsman/Poulan disposable/consumable plastic types that I only use as loaners and don't really care if they ever come back home.;)
 

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