For what it's worth, my Stihl comparison

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joatmon said:
1. There are a few "fueds" going on at all times. See the "Husky Kicks" topic for the best contemporary evidence. Can get very personal.

2. The are "brand wars" among a few that are just jabs at one another. These participants like one another and are kidding around. Some people can't handle this and it ends up as a "fued". See No. 1.
Click to expand...

I have looked but don't see anything???:popcorn: :jester:
 
Woodie said:
Now, you gots your fifth category that you left out, Jack...that's your intolerable buzzard-batin' outhouse usin' scum-suckin' Demi-droolin' puss-oozin' Stihl usin' knuckle-draggin' mouth-breathin' ape-heathen turd-twirlin' fuss-budgets.

So far, we only got one, which is about three-quarters too many if you ask me, but you definitely need a category for him.

Speakin of him, you in there Tommie?

7.gif
Oops...I left out @ss-gas-blastin'...didn't mean to do that...
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Why can't a man take a dump in peace, grrrrrrrrrrrrr. What the hell is all that dayumm racket outthere. Hollering and carring on, I think I even heard someone speak of my Demi. Tell ya one dayumm thing rights now, when I get up off the throne here I'm coming out this door and whoever is making all that dayummm racket is gonna pay for disturbing my uhh quiet time of the day, GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR....
 
4will said:
Hello all,
I found this site some time ago and have been lurking around and gathering info from you all. I finally decided to get involved to share my recent Stihl experience and share my comparison.

I'm a homeowner DIY type who loves outdoor projects and power equipment. I believe in having the best I can reasonable afford. I also believe in considering doing all of my projects myself but am willing to pay for help when necessary. I'm super picky about the maintenance of my equipment in hopes that my higher end purchases will last me for years (thus another way to justify the cost).

That being said, a little over three years ago I bought a 290 with an 18inch bar to use for recapturing our land and yard from the previous owners. I've felled about 40 trees and used the saw for storm clean up with my fire department and on my property as well as general chainsaw work for cleaning up land.

I was pleased with the saw until a few months ago it began stalling out. I was heartbroken and frustrated when I took it to the shop and found out that the piston had scars and basically the parts would cost me as much as replacing the saw.

I emailed Stihl and after a couple of communications they offered to pay for parts. I tested Stihl's customer service and they came through just as they do with the quality of their equipment. I decided to upgraded.

So here's my comparison.

I bought a 361 with a 20 inch bar after much personal debate and lots of reading and asking questions.

I got to use the 361 all day this past weekend (felling and cleaning). I learned that I should have bought one a 361 to start.

Don't get me wrong, I loved my 290 and was very proud of it but for anyone who is having concerns about what to buy let me offer my input. I looked at the saws in between the 290 and the 361 but it didn't make sense to spend money on anything in between the two.

The vibration reduction built into the 361 does what my local salesperson said it would -- reduced fatigue at the end of the day and made the saw easier to use.

The larger fuel capacity allowed me to work longer so I didn't have to make the frustrating "I'm almost done with this part" stop.

The power difference is beyond noticeable. I know the chain on this saw cuts faster than the one on my 290 but the power when bucking larger logs or cutting off stumps is amazing.

For the non-professionals I'd like to confirm that the warnings about kickback with the more aggressive chains are not bull. I did notice more of a tendancy to try to kick back and to "bounce" around if I hit small branches without being at full throttle.

The tradeoff of the chain is worth it, the user just has to be more careful.

The balance of the 361 is better. I didn't notice the gain of overall weight.

The saw starts easier (I'm comparing that to new not the last few months with the damaged 290) because of the compression relief feature.

I noticed that the 361 idled easier at strange angles (on it's side or when cutting branches) which made it easier to cut without having throttle up the saw as I was moving it into position. What I'm trying to say is that I could get the saw close to the branch or log then throttle up as opposed to doing that with my 290 when I would have to give it a little gas to keep it idling in order to get it in position. I was told that the carbs were different and I seemed to notice that difference as I used it.

As I was cleaning my saw when I was done I noticed a small metal plate screwed on near the oiler (under the plastic cover but just over the oiler). I also noticed some metal housing and a few other items that seemed to be built a little better than my 290.

I think those are my major observations. If anyone has any questions about anything I wasn't clear about or that I may not have described I'll be happy to share my experience.

I've been pleased with all of my Stihl equipment but this is the first chance I've had to really compare two of their similar products.

If you are looking to purchase and can find a way to pay the difference, go with the 361. From what I learned in my research there wasn't much reason to go up from a 290 unless I was going to go all the way to the 361.

Just my two cents, Will
Click to expand...

Will, welcome to the site. Excellent write up. I am glad that you like the saw. Take care of it and it will last you a long time.

Robert
 
SawTroll said:
A few of the models in your sig are sold in box stores here, but no Huskys - they are Full Service Dealer only!!!!!!!!
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That is there and this is here. Husky is sold everywhere and at a few dealers and Stihl is only at dealers.:cheers:
 
Hey, while I have some of your attention I need to ask a question.

The owner's manual for the 361 says to tighten the cylinder base screws of professional saws after 10 to 20 hours of operation.

I don't mean to be dumb but what are they talking about? I can't find any other reference to those other than at the bottom of the maintenance chart.

Seems like a key detail is left out -- telling me where those are or how to do it or that I need to go to the authorized servicing dealer.
 
4will said:
Hey, while I have some of your attention I need to ask a question.

The owner's manual for the 361 says to tighten the cylinder base screws of professional saws after 10 to 20 hours of operation.

I don't mean to be dumb but what are they talking about? I can't find any other reference to those other than at the bottom of the maintenance chart.

Seems like a key detail is left out -- telling me where those are or how to do it or that I need to go to the authorized servicing dealer.
Click to expand...

The dealer should do that, when the saw is run in, and you bring it back for "post run-in service" - standard procedure with my Stihl dealers. Your dealer should have told you, when you bought it - should not cost you a dime........
 
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4will said:
Hey, while I have some of your attention I need to ask a question.

The owner's manual for the 361 says to tighten the cylinder base screws of professional saws after 10 to 20 hours of operation.

I don't mean to be dumb but what are they talking about? I can't find any other reference to those other than at the bottom of the maintenance chart.

Seems like a key detail is left out -- telling me where those are or how to do it or that I need to go to the authorized servicing dealer.
Click to expand...



It's a 30 second job... 99% chance they will be tight as factory anyhow.

Undo the top cover screw. Insert long T27 in cylinder holes. Check tight, done. If any one of them appears loose or moves with a "calibrated wrist", get them all torqued. You can't check actual "torque" without loosening them and retightening though.

If you are concerned, take it back to your dealer for a check. Suppose I should look at mine one day;)
 
Lakeside53 said:
It's a 30 second job... 99% chance they will be tight as factory anyhow.

Undo the top cover screw. Insert long T27 in cylinder holes. Check tight, done. If any one of them appears loose or moves with a "calibrated wrist", get them all torqued. You can't check actual "torque" without loosening them and retightening though.

If you are concerned, take it back to your dealer for a check. Suppose I should look at mine one day;)
Click to expand...


About what I said a few posts ago - do you have me on ignore....:jawdrop: :jawdrop:
 
I've sold maybe a 150 of the 361. No one has ever come back for the cylinder to be tightened, on the 361 or for that matter... any saw... and we do give them the manual. They either do it themselves (sure..) or never read the manual. :help:
 
Lakeside53 said:
I've sold maybe a 150 of the 361. No one has ever come back for the cylinder to be tightened, on the 361 or for that matter... any saw... and we do give them the manual. They either do it themselves (sure..) or never read the manual. :help:
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The last option is most likely, I believe.......:biggrinbounce2:

..but my dealer pointed it out to me, when I picked it up - do you??????
 
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Hey Lakeside, I read the manual.???

Lakeside53 said:
I've sold maybe a 150 of the 361. No one has ever come back for the cylinder to be tightened, on the 361 or for that matter... any saw... and we do give them the manual. They either do it themselves (sure..) or never read the manual. :help:
Click to expand...

I couldn't find anything except some kind of warning about suckback.

Mitch
 
Reading the manual.

Lakeside53 said:
I've sold maybe a 150 of the 361. No one has ever come back for the cylinder to be tightened, on the 361 or for that matter... any saw... and we do give them the manual. They either do it themselves (sure..) or never read the manual. :help:
Click to expand...

Besides the suckback warnings, I remember reading something about green scratch pads for air filter material.:biggrinbounce2: :cheers:

Mitch
 
The dealer didn't mention anything about bringing it back in but I will take it to them to do. I've been having a conversation in PM about my local dealer -- let's just say they have some weaknesses.

It's funny, I read the owner's manual for most things and think "they write 90% of this for CYA reasons and for morons" (I've got a friend who is general counsel for a large power tool manufacturer and that's my summation of his explanation of reviewing manuals). The sad part is that the people who really NEED to read the manual don't.

So for now I need to log some hours on the machine. :chainsawguy:
 
From someone who has written a lot of user manuals:

You have to write them o the lowest common denominator, flaming idiots, because they are the ones who will sue. You are right this makes most manuals basically useless because there is no information in them above a 3rd grade education.

What do you call a thousand lawyers at the bottom of the ocean? Everybody! "A GOOD START!"
 

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