Stihl 038 Gas Tank
- Thread starter djg james
- Start date
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Your outer ring #30 appears to be AGAINST the rubber boot.
It should be AROUND the boot as per my 066 pic.
Or is it just the camera angle?
It should be AROUND the boot as per my 066 pic.
Or is it just the camera angle?
I'm not really sure I know what you mean. I can't tell any difference from you photos. The rubber boot is against the BACKSIDE of #30. Should I pull the rubber boot through the center hole of #30 so the flange of the rubber boot rides against the FRONTSIDE of #30?
Then the inner ring would be wedged inside the opening of the rubber boot.
Yes.
Outer ring,boot and inner ring should all be flush with each other.
My side on pic of the 066 boot shows that.
Outer ring,boot and inner ring should all be flush with each other.
My side on pic of the 066 boot shows that.
I tried to pull the boot through the center of #30 as described, but the od of the flange of the boot just fits the id of #30. The od of the boot excluding the flanged portion would have had to been the same diameter as the hole of #30 in order to lay the flange portion on the outer face of #30. So I had it right, with the exception of the orientation of the inner ring, which I corrected.
If right good to go.
But if the flange of boot is not flush with ring it won't seal.
Yes they are a tight fit.
But if the flange of boot is not flush with ring it won't seal.
Yes they are a tight fit.
Have a look at post #41 above.
Is it all flush like that?
Is it all flush like that?
Yes, it is flush like in post #41. The saw was a little reluctant to start up. Could be because gas hadn't gotten to the carb yet after reinstalling it. Ran fine after that. Kill switch wouldn't work so I had to choke it out. Then it would be hard to restart. I had these two problems before. Once the linkage wouldn't let the choke close all the way when the choke lever was pushed down. Then it wouldn't start right. And maybe the kill wire in the lever has slipped. I have to check both of these out.
Check that the contact from the wire engages the spring in the off position, and that the spring has a ground to the coil
I tried to start the saw this morning so I could check the contacts of the grounding system. Very difficult to start. Around 15 to 20 pulls. Once I got it going, it reved on high regardless of flipping the lever up. Weird. I finally got it down to an idle by shutting it off and restarting. After that it would start as normal, first or second pull. I never had that issue before I put #30 on. As I said it was missing that part by a previous mechanic. I snugged down on the nuts holding the carb thinking it might be an air leak? Any other ideas?
As for as the kill switch, the spring that fits in a slot, was riding a little out of the slot. When in the off position, the spring would ride high on the plastic collar holding the pin in the lever and not allowing contact. I couldn't push the spring into the track anymore. so I had to bend/twist the spring a little until the tip of it made contact with the pin. That part solved. Now if I can only get the saw to start cold again I'll be happy. I'm letting it cool down and set a couple of hours and try again this afternoon.
As for as the kill switch, the spring that fits in a slot, was riding a little out of the slot. When in the off position, the spring would ride high on the plastic collar holding the pin in the lever and not allowing contact. I couldn't push the spring into the track anymore. so I had to bend/twist the spring a little until the tip of it made contact with the pin. That part solved. Now if I can only get the saw to start cold again I'll be happy. I'm letting it cool down and set a couple of hours and try again this afternoon.
Saw is starting and shutting off as it should. Thanks everyone.
