Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Honestly, how many cord do you have to cut to wear out a chain? My Stihl dealer does the buy one get one half price deal all year. I have good chains on all the saws and new ones in the box unused. Probably cut 10 full cord with the one on the ms460. Hand file every couple hours while cutting, careful to avoid rocks. Bet I cut another 10-15 cord before swapping to the half price chain.

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To wear out a Stihl chain, cutting clean wood and hand filing as needed, you definitely could get into triple digits.

I once cut 7 cords of mixed species from aspen and balsam on the soft end to red maple and birch on the high end with Stihl RS without a sharpening. Finally rocked it or would have cut more.
 
....The cutters may have work hardened( just a guess) what kind if files are you using? I've not used any diamond cutters, or files for a chain. Normally I hit them with a save edge brand file. If that isnt doing it to the chain grinder i go.
I don't know the brand, either from the farm store or Bailey's. Same file used on the previous chain and worked fine. Guessing it's hardened too, but why not both sides. The grinding stones are used in a dremel like tool since I don't have a chain grinder.
 
Last time I went out I switched to another partially used chain. The previous one I had posted about was improperly ground (by me) and would glide on top of the wood. The new chain made a big difference. Went right through the wood and the saw didn't heat up. The only problem I noticed was one side of the chain was hard to hand file. The file wouldn't dig in on those teeth and the file wouldn't cut. It was like the teeth were hardened. The other side was fine. Weird.
Has anyone used something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pc-7-32-...889353?hash=item5d50e11f09:g:DJQAAOSwR0JUPIWNAre the diamond burrs better than the regular stones?
Over the years i have encountered an odd link that the file seemed to glide across. Always on Stihl chain.
 
On the hand held 12V grinders, the stones that come with them are absolute crap and worthless, you will be lucky to get one good sharpening from them.

The EZ Lap diamond stones are a thousand times better, last a long time and do a good job. I used them a lot before I got into square file, and was milling the post and beam for the upstate cabin. They transform your 12V into a very useful tool.
 
I don't know the brand, either from the farm store or Bailey's. Same file used on the previous chain and worked fine. Guessing it's hardened too, but why not both sides. The grinding stones are used in a dremel like tool since I don't have a chain grinder.

Am no expert, but what scares me away from using grinders is heat. I used to take my chains to the other local stihl dealer (not my favorite one I always post about), and when I'd get them back, they would dull really fast in dry, dead ash. I wasn't hitting the dirt or anything either. I showed one of their freshly sharpened chains to my buddy, a millwright, and he saw the issue right away. The cutters had a blueish discoloration to them, which he said was fault of whomever was grinding on them, letting them get hot which changed the temper. He turned me onto hand filing freehand. Haven't had a chain sharpened by anyone since, save one I rocked pretty good and was too much for my limited filling skills to fix.
 
What do y'all think is a fair price for a lightly used 241 with three chains (two are new in the box yellow label stihl)?? A guy on facistbook is wanting one, and I'm thinking I can get more out of my 241 than my 346xp. Plus, I think I like the 346 a little better, and parts will be much easier to source in years to come.

Sorry for asking this here. FWIW, I think I have a little over $600 invested in that saw with everything included (extra chains, etc.). Has maybe 4-5 tanks through it, maybe a tad more. I don't pay that close attention. LOL.
 
It is easy to use these (with the diamond stones) w/o over heating your chains. If the teeth need lots of work, just go through the whole chain a few times instead of grinding endlessly on the tooth. The little guide that comes on them is very useful once set up correctly.

Touch ups go very fast. Just put a stump vice on the bar and never remove the chain from the saw, works great!

I do one side at a time, lock the chain and do 3 or 4 teeth, then move to the next section, then do the other side. Goes very fast and works very well.
 
Am no expert, but what scares me away from using grinders is heat. I used to take my chains to the other local stihl dealer (not my favorite one I always post about), and when I'd get them back, they would dull really fast in dry, dead ash. I wasn't hitting the dirt or anything either. I showed one of their freshly sharpened chains to my buddy, a millwright, and he saw the issue right away. The cutters had a blueish discoloration to them, which he said was fault of whomever was grinding on them, letting them get hot which changed the temper. He turned me onto hand filing freehand. Haven't had a chain sharpened by anyone since, save one I rocked pretty good and was too much for my limited filling skills to fix.
I'm very careful not to over heat the cutters on the grinder. I messed up a few to learn not to do it. Your friend was absolutely right. Took the temper right out if the cutter. Even on really bad chains, I'll spin them around several times and take small passes with the grinder. This far it's been working well for me. I normally just hand file wile cutting. Every so often ill pull a chain and grind it to reset my angle, then go back to hand file again. Seems to work well for the most part.
 
The previous one I had posted about was improperly ground (by me) and would glide on top of the wood. . . The file wouldn't dig in on those teeth and the file wouldn't cut. It was like the teeth were hardened.
Am no expert, but what scares me away from using grinders is heat. . . . The cutters had a blueish discoloration to them, which he said was fault of whomever was grinding on them . .
Overheating the cutters until they change colors usually hardens them ('grinder hardening') due to the quick cooling of the small surface area in air. This usually is only a surface effect that you can carefully grind through, allowing the cutters to be filed again.

I'm very careful not to over heat the cutters on the grinder. I messed up a few to learn not to do it.
Grinding is a skill, just like sharpening with a file or anything else: grinders don't ruin chains - people (with grinders) do! In fairness, I have posted many photos of chains ruined by people with files. When someone gets a new tool (bench grinder, Dremel, etc.) I encourage them to practice on some scrap chains first. With the bench grinders, dressing the wheels frequently to expose fresh abrasives is very important to avoid overheating.

The EZ Lap diamond stones are a thousand times better, last a long time and do a good job.
Left Coast Supplies (of blessed memory) used to offer ABN/CBN stones for the rotary grinders that maintained their shape. Someone said that they are still available through someone in Europe, but I don't know who or where.

Philbert
 
That’s really something to get deals on saws. I shudder at the thought of paying retail for Stihl anything. One place around here is 30 dollars less on nearly a thousand dollar saw. I asked the other place if they’d price match cause they other guy was less. He yells at me “THEY CAN’T DO THAT!” Ok then.

When I bought my 661, the dealer took $200 Aussie pesos off the retail = 10% off. I didn't ask him to. I think he thought they were overpriced as they were.

What do y'all think is a fair price for a lightly used 241 with three chains (two are new in the box yellow label stihl)?? A guy on facistbook is wanting one, and I'm thinking I can get more out of my 241 than my 346xp. Plus, I think I like the 346 a little better, and parts will be much easier to source in years to come.

I can't help you with selling your 241 and I also can't compare it to the 346. I haven't used a 241 stock, I got mine new and ported by Randy and I would never let it go. Possibly a ported 346 would be as good, I don't know, but I love my ported 241 (I mean, Cowgirl's ported 241). I don't think that 'getting parts' should really come into it unless you're planning on straight gassing it or running over it with your truck.
 
What do y'all think is a fair price for a lightly used 241 with three chains (two are new in the box yellow label stihl)?? A guy on facistbook is wanting one, and I'm thinking I can get more out of my 241 than my 346xp. Plus, I think I like the 346 a little better, and parts will be much easier to source in years to come.

Sorry for asking this here. FWIW, I think I have a little over $600 invested in that saw with everything included (extra chains, etc.). Has maybe 4-5 tanks through it, maybe a tad more. I don't pay that close attention. LOL.
I think I sold my mint 241, with three bars and six chains for $475.

IMO, great move to keep the 346. Ported 346=best limbing saw ever.
 
I was driving on a private road when I spotted them. I stopped. There were 4 ash rounds just off to the side. Checked to see that the coast was clear. I quickly loaded them in the back of the Jeep and drove directly home. OK, so I'm making it sound more nefarious than it was... it was my road and the rounds were the forks that my neighbor said I could have after helping him split and haul the straight pieces up to his porch last night. He was just starting when I drove past yesterday so I asked if he wanted help and he said sure in a neighborly kind of way that meant he didn't need help but would enjoy the company anyway. Honestly about the toughest splitting ash I can recall. Threw a couple of locust chunks on to to finish the load.
20201012_155529.jpg
Did the rest of the locust the other night.
20201010_145715.jpg
And a few pine rounds for shoulder season before that.
20201005_192133.jpg
And swept off the FIL's trailer to return on Sunday. That tiny thing at the top of the pic is a wheelbarrow full of chips.
20201010_143923.jpg
 
I think he is selling the 241 to keep an unported 262.
The 262 is pushing one saw out of the stable, and the choices to sell were 346 and 241

Also, I think a ported 261 Ver II will give a 346 a good run for it's money, and never needs tuning!
Most certainly power wise but not handling? IMO the 346 and 550V1 are (were) the greatest limbing saws ever made. The 550v2 has more power but more weight.
 

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