Years ago I guy on this site named Walt Gailer said he could make a race chain with a boot lace leather and stropping. He thought this would beat Art Martin race chain.............. He was wrong!
Most wood is porous. Think it might make a difference with wet wood?This causes the cutting tool to become "sticky"
Don't know, but with a chainsaw, I doubt it. On the other hand, I do know that a hand plane is "stickier" on green wood than dry.Most wood is porous. Think it might make a difference with wet wood?
Whose knive sharpening machine are you using. Looks a lot like an edge pro.I have done things like this with the ax and with lots of knives, and the results are spectacular and short lived.
Hi, I never said micro bevels decrease edge holding? I think you are getting confused.So....microbevels actually decrease edge-holding ability? That's a new one on me. Maybe we should be using razor blades on our lawnmowers and axes. Even microtome blades -- used for cutting microscopically-thin slices of animal tissue for histology -- have secondary bevels.
I guess the "finest" edge you can get is the wire edge that forms when two planes intersect in steel ... but the wire edge doesn't last very well at all. You can break it off with your finger. I'd rather knock it off with a microbevel (jeweller's rouge on a piece of MDF) than let it break off on its own, since the microbevel will be more durable and will be sharper than the jagged edge that's left when the wire edge is broken off the first time you use the tool.
The 'micro-bevel' thing, however, may have merit. For those not familiar, many woodworking chisels, gouges, and plane blades ('irons') are sharpened at a primary angle / bevel, then finished with a slightly steeper 'micro-bevel'. When maintenance sharpening is done, only the micro-bevel is touched up, instead of taking off all the steel required to bring the primary bevel to a fine edge.
I have often wondered if this could be applied to saw chains, especially square filed cutters, possibly by using different files than those used to shape the cutters: perhaps something like a feather file, warding file, the back of a single bevel file, etc. Clearly, this would take a bit more skill than running a '2-in-1' guide past the tooth, or maybe it just requires running a file one size larger past for a stroke or two on round filed chains?
In addition to being faster, due to removing less material, it would present a stronger cutting edge, and perhaps make the cutters last longer?
Anyway, just an idea to keep @Gaudaost from sleeping tonight!
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Phlber
Firstly, that’s absolutely stunning, is it yours and was that ground or freehand filed?!?
Screen shot from a Vallorbe video. Filed.is it yours and was that ground or freehand filed?!?
These edge pros are kinda cheaply made. I'm now on my third, but no longer use edge pros or clones of the same. I found a good one that clamps onto the blade and then spins for doing the other side. Simpler and faster with more angle consistency.Whose knive sharpening machine are you using. Looks a lot like an edge pro.
https://www.edgeproinc.com/professi...onal-model-edge-pro-sharpening-system-p8.htmlThese edge pros are kinda cheaply made. I'm now on my third, but no longer use edge pros or clones of the same. I found a good one that clamps onto the blade and then spins for doing the other side. Simpler and faster with more angle consistency.
Here's exactly what you said:Hi, I never said micro bevels decrease edge holding? I think you are getting confused.
for typical high carbon steels a fine edge lasts longer than a coarse edge
It’s worth mentioning in reply to your other post. morakniv lamanited knives have relatively poor edge holding ability’s and aren’t even close to 65 hrc - they are a 58-60 HRC insert. They are great for the fact that they are nicely profiled, have nice shaped wooden handles and are accessible, but leave much to be desired in terms of edge retention. As a reference, the z-wear carving knife in developing holds an edge over 24x the length of a morakniv laminated blade, it’s still a carbon steel, but with the addition of vanadium and a few other elements.
I’m not going to keep correcting you and having a pissing match on here. Do some research on me, my business, background, contact Tormek and Morakniv who have both sent me many products over the years for testing and follow my social media. I have around 42,000 people who follow what I do, thousands of customers world wide of my sharpening systems and a 15 week waiting list. I run my own sharpening and carving business and have customers all around the world sending me their wood carving tools to repair and sharpen. My social media has countless videos on the z-wear with many hours of live demos, information on the steel, it’s micro structure and elemental content, Romans process for treating, refining and processing it.Here's exactly what you said:
Please explain exactly how, and in what alternate universe, "a fine edge lasts longer than a coarse edge." Feel free to use drawings, geometry and metallic grain structure diagrams if you want.
"Holds an edge 24X as long as a laminated Mora" LOL, that's pretty funny. All I can say is that I've used some good steels (including top-shelf high-dollar Japanese chisels) along with the Mora, and the Mora held an edge longer than anything I've ever used. Do you own a Mora laminated knife? Do you skin many animals with it? I've used many, many different steels in both woodworking and "animal carving" ... and sorry ... but your claim of "lasts 24X as long" comes across as absurd. In my experience, there simply aren't differences that big, even if you compare "middle of the road consumer grade" with "best steel in the world" grade.
In fact, a lot of the stuff you're spouting here sounds a lot like folklore...Your claim that "After 30 hours of carving it still split an unsupported hair," for example, sounds an AWFUL lot like that fable in James Clavell's novel "Shogun" about the samurai sword that was supposedly so sharp that if a silk scarf was dropped on top of it, the sword would cleave the silk scarf in half without even disturbing the speed of its fall due to gravity...LOL
When I say a fine edge it’s in reference to the amount of refinement it has gone through. For example, an edge sharpened to 10,000 grit is finer than 1,000 grit, not in relation to the bevel angle / apex being fine / thin / reduced.OK, fair enough. But one last time (I ask in all honesty as a woodworker who wishes to seize the grasshopper from your hand and thereby know more):
How can "a fine edge last longer than a coarse edge"? Serious question. Because if I could find a way to do this, I would be all in favor of doing it. It sounds like you know far more about it than I do, and I would like to benefit from your knowledge.
OK, thanks. I thought you were referring to bevel angle, which is what led me to the microbevel/secondary bevel stuff.When I say a fine edge it’s in reference to the amount of refinement it has gone through. For example, an edge sharpened to 10,000 grit is finer than 1,000 grit, not in relation to the bevel angle / apex being fine / thin / reduced.
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