RED ARMOR FOR THE WIN!!!
Piston scorch marks Advice
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I run 1oz seafoam per gal of rec fuel and red armor at a shade under 50:1 I measure the oil out at 50:1 then give alil extra squirt of oil to the can
And bam, now it's an oil thread.
I’m concerned with the “ mostly “ 50:1. Any fuel mix fatter ( more oil ) than 50:1 is actually causing the saw to run lean. More oil = less fuel unless it is compensated with a fuel jet adjustment. Gasoline in a chainsaw is also a coolant. Less coolant = lean and over heat. 2 cycle oil does burn. It’s only there for lubrication. Excessive oil and heat causes excessive carbon.
What actually happens is the saw over heats and scuffs the piston on the exhaust side. Also mentioned in the post was the saw being used in the winter. If the saw is not properly warmed up and immediately put into the wood you will cause a cold scuff on the piston. The biggest problem in exhaust piston scuffing is a dull chain or bad fuel mix. Exhaust scuffing is a over heat problem. As mentioned in other posts the 2 cycle oil is critical. Don’t use an oil that doesn’t have at least a Jaso FB or FD classification. Stihl ultra is only a FB. Stihl orange bottle doesn’t even show the Jaso classification??? Echo and Husqvarna oils are a FD whether in bottle or premix ALL the engineered canned fuel other than Stihl is non ethanol 92+ octane and FD oil. Do not use outboard motor oil! Not all 2 cycle oil is the same! As mentioned above Excessive carbon in the exhaust is too much oil. Spark plug heat range is critical as well. All manufacturers use a NGK BPMR7A from the factory. A non resistor plug will cause ignition module failure in today’s modern saws. I personally wouldn’t use anything to try to clean up the carbon. Save it for a top end refresh. If you’re bucking all day just keep a sharp chain, a clean air filter and use a good and properly mixed fuel
This isn't accurate. It might have been, back in bean oil days, but modern oils(meaning the last 30 years) burn with the gasoline and contribute to the BTU content of the fuel. More oil = richer air/fuel mix.
Regardless, tune for what you're running, no matter what you're running.
Quality 2 cycle oil has added stabilizer added from the manufacturer as stated on the bottle. Adding a extra squirt of oil will cause a lean fuel mix and over heat. If you’re saw has a non adjustable ( fixed jet) carburetor you’re doing more harm than good. More oil = less fuel. If you’re saw has adjustable carburetor ( high and low mixture screws) you can adjust it on the richer side to compensate for the extra oil
I agree. Tune for what you’re running! What if you can’t tune what you’re running? I have to disagree on more oil = rich air / fuel mix In today’s modern saws it’s the opposite. You have a lean air/ fuel mix with more oil. The oil is only the lubricant and yes the oils have got way better than the days of 16:1 mixed with 30w non detergent. On a fixed jet carburetor like a Stihl ms180 for example or the new auto tune machines they are jetted for a specific fuel mix 50:1. If you run 40:1 in a fixed jet machine that is designed to run 50:1 you will have low power and probably scuffing do to less fuel ( lean) more oil. If you run 40:1 in my vintage Remington might mite that calls for 16:1 it runs way to rich on fuel. My Remington Deluxe has a fixed high speed jet with no adjusting screw. If I run 40:1 mix in my Stihl 034S that has been previously tuned to 50:1 it will excessively smoke and spit oil on itself and the floor. If the saw is tuned for 40:1 and I run it at 50:1 it will run too lean and over rev and I have to fatten it up to drop the rpm to the safe zone. Today’s oil has come a long way from the Dino years. Better oils mean less needed and less smoke ( EPA) but it’s main function is lubrication. If you can tune that’s a great thing. If you can’t follow the manufacturer and the engineers that design it
You contradicted yourself in there, and only got it right once.
I was advised to run 32:1 red armor in my old remingtons. Seems to be working pretty good in preliminary testing.
Ok. Where do you agree or disagree
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
No No, these saws are Mtronic, they adjust the amount of fuel they use automatically, so it is not running Lean, and 50:1 is not too much oil, its the bare minimum if your running your saw hard.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here you go, have a read about Two stroke Oils
Cool article! I will have to read it further when I have more time. I downloaded it. Thanks!
Guys continually bring up that saws running on 50:1 mix will magicly run lean enough to do damage at 32:1. This is nonsense. Yes, 32:1 is ever so slightly leaner than 50:1 from a air to fuel ratio standpoint. However these same guts making these claims will run their saws at 80 degrees and forty degrees without re-tuning. The change of 40 degrees in temperature has a many times greater effect than a little more oil in your mix.
And, Yes oil ratio does effect the amount of fuel moving through the jets thus it does effect carb tuning.
As for oil being designed to burn in modern oils. Yes, that's true, but let's talk how that happens in a perfect running engine scenario.
When the intake port opens gasoline and oil mix in fine droplet form enters the engine. It immediately it meets hot engine parts and the fuel is vaporized dropping the oil onto the parts of the crankcase. As the piston closes the intake port the fuel in vapor form moves up through the transfers into the cylinder where it can be combusted. A little liquid oil from the surfaces of the crankcase moves with the vapor, spark plug fires and the whole works combusts. Now, if a fluid enters the combustion chamber it can not combust, it has to be converted to vapor first. Tuning or jetting is a measure of how much vapor is in the combustion chamber at the moment the spark plug fires. The oil in the combustion chamber at the moment the spark plug fires is coating the surfaces of the cylinder wall, chamber and piston dome. Some of is burnt immediately AFTER, some takes the ride around for a second or third go around and some is expelled through the exhaust port.
As for oil being designed to burn in modern oils. Yes, that's true, but let's talk how that happens in a perfect running engine scenario.
When the intake port opens gasoline and oil mix in fine droplet form enters the engine. It immediately it meets hot engine parts and the fuel is vaporized dropping the oil onto the parts of the crankcase. As the piston closes the intake port the fuel in vapor form moves up through the transfers into the cylinder where it can be combusted. A little liquid oil from the surfaces of the crankcase moves with the vapor, spark plug fires and the whole works combusts. Now, if a fluid enters the combustion chamber it can not combust, it has to be converted to vapor first. Tuning or jetting is a measure of how much vapor is in the combustion chamber at the moment the spark plug fires. The oil in the combustion chamber at the moment the spark plug fires is coating the surfaces of the cylinder wall, chamber and piston dome. Some of is burnt immediately AFTER, some takes the ride around for a second or third go around and some is expelled through the exhaust port.
I already explained it.
That article has a ton of issues and I have seen it passed around over the internet for years.
The only thing I noticed is no red armor and alot of bel ray oils and in not sure bel ray is still made.
