McCulloch Chain Saws

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Gday guys.
I've been following the thread with little to nothing to share of late. Then this fine example of a classic mac (🤣🤣🤣) found its way into my collection. We took it as a trade at work on a new saw & the boss told me to take it.
She needed a new bar adjuster & a bit of tidying up, but now running well. I have a couple of these much loved models, but this is the first one that the oiler is working. I'm not a big fan of these, but runs well & pulls hard with the 16" in our Aussie hard wood.
Cheers
 

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Jethro - On most McCulloch branded points and electronic coils the wire basically "unscrews" from the coil. Of course, they often twist off in the pocket of the coil but I've found a hollow left handed drill bit that is intended for removing stripped wood screws that will dig our the wire remnants if you work slowly and carefully.

There is a thin stud like a wood screw in the coil that the wire threads on to. Lately I have been using Liquid Tape to seal the wire when installing a new one but I've used different silicone RTV products in the past with good success.

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Mark
I can't give an exact "QUOTE" but a Batman movie had the Joker saying "Where does he get all those TOYS?" That 'lil reamer is Neat. SECRET SUPPLY CAVE that you get them from?
 
Well it has taken a while but I think we finally have very good solution for 83598, the three piece sawdust screens used on the CP70L and early versions of the 7-10. There may be other saws that also used the three piece arrangement but I don't know of any. The CP70L and early 7-10's were dated 1970 and the concurrent 10-10 models were still RH start. I don't have any 71/72 10-10 IPL's to see if any show the three piece screens.

The original parts were produced flat, and needed to be arched to fit in the starter housing. My engineer friend has drawn these up with the correct arch so they print out in the correct shape and snap right in place. We also increased the thickness of the ribs at the top and bottom hold these more firmly in place. These are much sturdier than the originals just like the one piece units I have been making.

I'll add some photos of the pieces as they come out of the printer and with the supports and the pieces by themselves ready to install when I get some more printed.

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Mark
 
On another note I sold the last of my supply of 57769, the insulator on the screw that holds the condenser and primary leads on the points terminal on the large frame, super series engines with the points under the flywheel. This is a simply little nylon ring but it is necessary to allow the magneto system to create a spark.

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Finding a suitable replacement seemed easy enough, a nylon spacer with the correct I.D. was available from McMaster Carr and turning the O.D. down only required a simple set up on my small lathe. Cutting them to length required a little thought...and I'd wanted to use a piece of hacksaw blade as a parting tool but needed to make a holder that could fix the blade very rigidly for this to work. Using another parting tool holder as a model I made one that would hold the hacksaw blade and fit the tool post on my lathe. I look forward to making a batch of 57769 then seeing if this will also work on aluminum so I can make some other spacers and bushings for additional projects on the horizon.

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Mark
 
North East Tennessee MAC Report

Another beautiful day in North East Tennessee yesterday. 80 degrees with a slight breeze. Ground was still too saturated to get the truck up the hill, but tractor made it without any assistance. The morning's plan was to take the dozer and pull stems to the road for bucking. Left track on dozer was collapsed. I had it properly tension after a half tube of grease only to have it collapse again within the first 50 yards. We put Plan B into action, pull what we could with the tractor. So much for telling my wife I would be home early as Plan B stretched into an all day plan.

Brian and I pulled, bucked and staged logs. Biggest challenge of the day was a 25' red oak stem. The tractor would lift one end but was unable to move it. So we chained the tractor to a tree and winched the stem to a more level spot. Still couldn't drag it - the tractor would just rear up. So we shortened the stem to 10' with Brian's 1010S - still couldn't move it. We then chained Brian's side by side to the front of the tractor to control the wheelies. With some struggle we made it to the pile. The remaining 15' also misbehaved. Whacked off 5' with no real effect. After one wheelie landed hard, we stopped, regrouped unhitched the side by side, grabbed the 5' section with the grapple, re-attached the log and managed to pull the remaining 10' section unassisted to the pile.

1010S continues to impress me. It keeps cutting aggressively while buried in red oak. In all candor, Brian's sharpening skills deserves a lot of the credit.

Brian with his 1010S bucking one of the smaller trees he felled last week.

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End of the day - two nice piles. Too tired/lazy to get off the tractor to take end shots so you could see how many logs there are - suffice it to say there are a lot. There are plenty left to be pulled another day.

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Be safe,
Ron
 
Too wet for snakes Ron?

Here are some photos showing the screens as they come from the printer, with the supports and raft removed, and an OEM flat piece.

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As you can see, the OEM ones were made flat and you had to bend them to the saw, the hooks would catch on the starter base legs and the projections on the top and the bottom would fit in grooves in the flywheel housing and starter cover to hold it in place. The hooks on the originals (polypropylene) would often break off. We were able to make the hooks a lot more substantial even though they don't do a lot on the 3D printed pieces since it already fits the curves.

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Mark
 
Why did you bring up snakes, Mark!!!!! I keep a watchful eye and ask a prayer, but otherwise I try to keep them out of mind.

It didn’t help my peace of mind when my partner showed me pictures of a 4+ foot timber rattler he killed last week next to his wood pile. His place is about the same elevation as the range. Though not as big as the eastern diamondbacks where I grew up, the thought of encountering one gives me the heevee geevees.

Nice job on the shields. I have no replacement part development going on at the lab. My go to machine shop is closed and they lost my one piece spring a/v prototype that I had fashioned from solder wire. With all your tools and skills, I am sure you could make a jig to produce them if they actually work. I can make you a conceptual prototype if you are interested.

Brian gave me a 1010S in a box yesterday. Hopefully when I am hiding from snakes I can see what I can create from the pieces.

Ron
 
Why did you bring up snakes, Mark!!!!! I keep a watchful eye and ask a prayer, but otherwise I try to keep them out of mind.

It didn’t help my peace of mind when my partner showed me pictures of a 4+ foot timber rattler he killed last week next to his wood pile. His place is about the same elevation as the range. Though not as big as the eastern diamondbacks where I grew up, the thought of encountering one gives me the heevee geevees.

Nice job on the shields. I have no replacement part development going on at the lab. My go to machine shop is closed and they lost my one piece spring a/v prototype that I had fashioned from solder wire. With all your tools and skills, I am sure you could make a jig to produce them if they actually work. I can make you a conceptual prototype if you are interested.

Brian gave me a 1010S in a box yesterday. Hopefully when I am hiding from snakes I can see what I can create from the pieces.

Ron

Hey Ron good stuff on the wood and 10-10S box. It's still strange to hear about snakes cutting wood.

If you have to piece that S together and it's for using then seriously consider hunting down older chassis parts. It really makes a nice light powerful saw 20200113_100043.jpg
More weight saved after that too with the PM starter swapped out
 

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