What about the little one under the big dusty one Bob?
Ms 462 repair on a budget
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Be careful if you start ordering parts for that saw. There are two different top ends and they are not interchangeable with the other crankcase.
It took me about three months to get an OEM old version from Stihl.
It took me about three months to get an OEM old version from Stihl.
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This thread cracks me up and just a reminder of the typical Stihl owners that I encounter. Yep they all are proud to say I bought a Stihl saw but when the thing craps the bed, they want no part of taking it to the Stihl dealer to be fixed.
They bring it to someone like me to fix then cry about how much the parts cost and then whine about why it takes weeks or longer to get the overpriced Stihl parts.
I refuse to use any AM internal parts for them, and I refuse to deal with any Stihl dealers for their parts. I tell the owners they will have to get the parts.
That don't work well either as the saws end up here for me to trip over for months at a time.
Now I just absolutely refuse to work on any Stihl saws because of it.
They bring it to someone like me to fix then cry about how much the parts cost and then whine about why it takes weeks or longer to get the overpriced Stihl parts.
I refuse to use any AM internal parts for them, and I refuse to deal with any Stihl dealers for their parts. I tell the owners they will have to get the parts.
That don't work well either as the saws end up here for me to trip over for months at a time.
Now I just absolutely refuse to work on any Stihl saws because of it.
Thanks. I've been made aware, I called the dealers and confirmed the top end end part numbers and saved them. If I'm not mistaken serial numbers starting at 187803970 call for piston and cylinder p/n 1142 020 1202 and everything below that calls for p/n 1142 020 1201.
Well, that may be the case, and I'm sure you have more experience than I fixing Stihl saws. BUT, this is my first Stihl, and I own an Echo (my 1st saw) and a Husqvarna (my 2nd), and a Jonsered project saw. I was well aware this Stihl 462 was a project when I got it, and I was ok with it (I enjoy fixing things and challenging myself trying new things).
I get it, and you will get the experience of Stihl first hand now. Good luck to ya.
OP, you say you need a new cylinder and piston, but you haven’t uploaded pictures of the one you have? Can the cylinder be saved? What’s wrong with the piston? Can it be saved?
Since I haven't taken the jug off yet, best I can do for you is a shots through the exhaust port.
At the very least I would need to fix the spark plug threads, since the guy I bought it from stripped them. From what I understand, time-sert is the best choice, but at a hefty cost from what I've seen (~$170), or a helicoil (mixed results reported).
I started this thread more to gauge consensus on the state of that cylinder I found on eBay (didn't want it to sell in case it was a good deal).
I should get a chance to take the saw apart Monday and see the complete state of the P+C.
Apart from the blow by it looks normal.
If you’re on a budget, helicoil is fine. The downside is when you remove and insert them they can come undone.
I have come across a number of helicoil repairs and all have held up.
If you’re on a budget, helicoil is fine. The downside is when you remove and insert them they can come undone.
I have come across a number of helicoil repairs and all have held up.
Well, ok then...now you'll have to explain to me "blow by".
What helicoil kit number should I get?
Don't see much wrong with it myself. Some nasty oil.
Probably 32 to 1 Ben .
Probably 32 to 1 Ben .
It’s got nothing to do with quantity of oil. If anything, it looks exactly like it was run on Ultra at 50:1, given how dry the can is
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My own answer to that would be -no kit number.
Helicoil spring thread replacement for spark plug threads are a cheap cop out that will give future problems.
Locked in threaded repair is the only acceptable best practice and some small engine cylinders indeed come fitted with these from new.
There are various options on threaded inserts, most of them rather costly to buy for a one off- but some machine shops offer it as a service- they have the tools and the knowledge. There may also be reliable saw repairers within this group that may live close that have the gear to do the repair for you- IF the rest of your original cylinder checks out as reusable.
Bob, there seems to be two types of thread repairing kits that utilize the term "helicoil". One is the almost universally discouraged spring type helicoil, and the other named "Helicoil Sav-a-Thread" that is more in-line with how a Time-Sert works, and has been recommended by a few knowledgeable people as at least a serviceable alternative to the much more expensive Time-Sert.
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Yes- notice I used the words Helicoil and spring. The save a thread version is far superior and more costly for a one off repair versus finding a machine shop that provides the service, or as @huskihl suggests- sending it out for a weld, drill and retap.
So, you are thinking that excess oil will not blacken a piston. Curious logic.
The helicoil plug repair kits work fine. I haven't had one come back.
I apologize, didn't mean to insult you.
