Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil Poll

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Favorite Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil

  • Echo Gold

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Echo Red Armor

    Votes: 27 35.5%
  • Husqvarna XP+

    Votes: 5 6.6%
  • Husqvarna HP

    Votes: 1 1.3%
  • Amsoil Dominator

    Votes: 10 13.2%
  • Amsoil Saber

    Votes: 15 19.7%
  • VP

    Votes: 3 3.9%
  • Stihl HP Ultra (Silver)

    Votes: 12 15.8%
  • Stihl High Performance (Orange)

    Votes: 1 1.3%
  • Lucas

    Votes: 2 2.6%

  • Total voters
    76
  • Poll closed .
The one that gets me is the soot loading in a diesel. Unless you've added significant aftermarket oil filtration specifically designed to remove soot, there's nothing the oil itself can do to help with that, other than keep it in suspension. You're running grinding paste in your engine by running it that long.
This is true. Often times the soot is so fine it passes right through a filter.
With modern engines with intact EGR valves this is even worse.
When you pencil out using a conventional oil VS something like Amsoil at extended drain intervals it's really a wash cost wise.
The other thing is conventional oils are so highly refined now they are approaching synthetics quality wise. That and some of the synthetics are actually highly refined mineral oils.
 
So what is your academic background?
Bachelor's of Science degree with course work in both organic and inorganic chemistry.
Have taken courses in tribology, one specifically on UOA, power plant specific water chemistry.
In addition I hold a Operating Engineer's license high pressure 1st class.
Beyond that and the most important thing is I have applied expiereance in mining/mineral processing, oil refining and power generation. In both operations and maintenance management capacities. I also was a metallurgical supervisor for a period of time where I had sole control over 15 different reagents as well as grinding and milling parameters for a hematite mine. That job also included supervision of the quality control lab to boot.
How much applied expiereance of the particular subject matter we are discussing do you have?
 
All this got me a little curious, so I went to the shop and took some pictures, saves me typing a thousand words.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5334.jpeg
    IMG_5334.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5335.jpeg
    IMG_5335.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5336.jpeg
    IMG_5336.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5337.jpeg
    IMG_5337.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5338.jpeg
    IMG_5338.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5339.jpeg
    IMG_5339.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5340.jpeg
    IMG_5340.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5341.jpeg
    IMG_5341.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5342.jpeg
    IMG_5342.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5333.jpeg
    IMG_5333.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
And some more.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5342.jpeg
    IMG_5342.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5343.jpeg
    IMG_5343.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5344.jpeg
    IMG_5344.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5345.jpeg
    IMG_5345.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5346.jpeg
    IMG_5346.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5347.jpeg
    IMG_5347.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5348.jpeg
    IMG_5348.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5349.jpeg
    IMG_5349.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5350.jpeg
    IMG_5350.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_5351.jpeg
    IMG_5351.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
I agree that youtube testimonials are questionable. But that is not what Project Farm does.
I have viewed what Project Farm has to offer , their results are questionable at best ! Sorry but , I use real time usage in the field to verify what my 2T & 4T engines require within a Premium
2T & 4T oil to actually protect my investment . I seriously doubt these schills , could square or round file my saw chain , let alone properly tune my chain saw , enough said !
 
Well, I cannot certify if 100:1 is OK or not. There is an earlier poster on this thread who claims he has been using it at 100:1 on dozens of 2-cycle equipment including chain saws, weed whackers, hedge trimmers, etc., for many years without problems. I am reluctant to go that far. But the main things that would allow such a ratio are stability and low volatility under high temperatures. If there is enough oil present to coat all wearing parts, any more oil than that just goes out the exhaust anyway. Remember, 16:1 was once the norm. Now we have most people accepting 50:1. For me, I will use 50:1 as an insurance policy. If I am wasting some oil, so be it. Maybe after a few more years, I will try 80:1 if more and more people get good results. But the cost of the oil does not mean a lot to me when compared to the cost of the equipment I am using it in.
100:1 oil ratio is not realistic , in any real world 2 T application !
 
Funny, I have over 200K on my truck and it consumes zero oil. All with 10k OCI using Mobil EP.
I find that questionable also , no internal combustion engine does not consume oil . Oil migrates "capilliary action " within definition itself , demonstrates this fact . Every engine has leak paths which constitutes to an oil loss scenerio to air or ground , sorry but engines are not oil tight brother !
 
I've never seen a synthetic diesel oil of any kind that sells for the same price as a traditional oil.
Petro Canada also makes a very good syn diesel engine oil.
I never said syn oil was the same price as mineral oil Ben ! I said syn Rotella or Cheveron or Mobil was not any cheaper then what you can buy Amsoil syn Diesel as a preferred customer . However , yes Petro Canada provides an adequate Diesel engine oil along with a quality conventional automobile oil , North of the Border .
 
The 5.4 liter Triton in my F-150 has burned about a quart or 1.5 quarts of oil per 4000 miles (when I change it) since Day One.

The 7.3 Powerstroke diesel in my 2001 F-250 doesn't burn (or leak) a drop, even with almost 300k on the clock. And it averages 20 mpg ... and on the highway on long trips sometimes gets 25 mpg. (I've kept track of every gallon of fuel purchased since I got the truck 10 years ago, and yep -- over that 10-year period, 20.0 mpg average exactly.) Gotta love the ZF6.

The stupid gasser in the F-150 is lucky if it gets 17 mpg on the highway. Sometimes I feel like I'm driving a pig Ford 390. At least it's got some guts, unlike the 390 IIRC.
 
I find that questionable also , no internal combustion engine does not consume oil . Oil migrates "capilliary action " within definition itself , demonstrates this fact . Every engine has leak paths which constitutes to an oil loss scenerio , sorry but engines are not oil tight brother !
Ok, let me rephrase. The dip stick is exactly the same after an oil change and after 10k is on the clock.
My wife's rig with the same engine does the same thing.
 
Ok, let me rephrase. The dip stick is exactly the same after an oil change and after 10k is on the clock.
LOL, same here. I'm sure if I got out the analytical balance and weighed the 15 quarts of oil that come out of my 7.3 PSD when I do an oil change, I'd find that some number of milligrams are missing after 5k miles...but the level on the dipstick doesn't move, ever.
 
I never said syn oil was the same price as mineral oil Ben ! I said syn Rotella or Cheveron or Mobil was not any cheaper then what you can buy Amsoil syn Diesel as a preferred customer . However , yes Petro Canada provides an adequate Diesel engine oil along with a quality conventional automobile oil , North of the Border .
North, I missed the syn part.
 
LOL, same here. I'm sure if I got out the analytical balance and weighed the 15 quarts of oil that came out of my 7.3 PSD when I do an oil change, I'd find that some number of milligrams are missing after 5k miles...but the level on the dipstick doesn't move, ever.
The only engines I have had that burned oil was my wife's GMC Acadia. I believe it had a 3.4L motor. That engine also catastrophically failed with under 150k on the clock. The other was a Dodge 360 of 1997 vintage.
 
The one that gets me is the soot loading in a diesel. Unless you've added significant aftermarket oil filtration specifically designed to remove soot, there's nothing the oil itself can do to help with that, other than keep it in suspension. You're running grinding paste in your engine by running it that long.
You are correct on that. My oil test did show quite a bit of soot in suspension. However, soot is basically just colloidal graphite. It may actually act as a lubricant. In any case, the test showed that the oil itself was still within specs. I settled on a 25000 mile oil change interval after that.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top