Stihl Paint?

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Base coat/clear coat

Thats what I was planning for my next saw. I just asked about color so i did not have to reinvent the wheel. I am sure I am not the first guy to paint his saw with auto paint, I was just looking for a paint code that was close to the Stihl grey.

I think using 2 stage would alllow to much paint build up on the parts, so i will start looking at some paint chips.

Thanks
 
I was going to call valspar about today to find out what the real cure conditions needed to be.

I set up some test panels to further test this, the paint had been on for about 3 days at the time. I may set it outside to let it soak some UV's and harden up some more.

I will post the results, any other input or alternative paint would be appreciated. My automotive paint has never had the charateristics this bad.
That's your problem right there. Enamel paint takes approximately 30 days to fully cure/harden. You can certainly work with the parts prior to that but don't expose them to any chemical until after 30 days.

I'm sure you can speed up the hardening if you put them in a hot dry area. I'm not sure how low your oven goes but most plastics don't melt or get damaged until you get up into the 200+ range on temp so if you can get the temp down to 150 or 175 you should be ok, but you're still going to have to bake them for a long time at that temp (maybe 10+ days).
 
Yep guess ya might be right on

Did not even think about the old enamel out of the can charateristics. We always added enough harder to get it down the road.

I dont know if I can wait a month to use the saw.......I guess we will see what happpens.

Thanks, Still looking for a laquer paint code ........lol.
 
I think using 2 stage would alllow to much paint build up on the parts, so i will start looking at some paint chips.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

Actaully your base coat of 2 or 3 coats plus 2 coats of clear will be same or less than what you would have to apply in single stage to get good coverage. Remember this to that the better the quality of paint the better the coverage.......cheap paint=more paint. One reason why rattle can paint takes so many coats.
 
Yes, but

I have 2 things going against me,,$ is one and the guys in the shop think I have lost all of my marbells for the way I "redid" this 360 project.

Just trying to keep it simple, And if start using the clear we have reserved for our Mack resto project I will never hear the the end of it. But maybe on my next 360, it hase to come all the way apart.\

I gurantee that it would be ready to handle in a few days if I did it with base coat / clear coat.
 
Valspar Paints are top-shelf! Follow the instructions. As to paint match to the Stihl colors, I took several parts, new and original, into the color analyzer..........the rresults came back as too closely matched to reccommend.
 
My local Tractor Supply no longer has Valspar. The crap they are selling now as tractor aqnd impliment paint just washes off even after two weeks of dry time.
That's some pretty shiny metal for paint to bite into...we sand blast our stuff so the paint sticks. The paint in the picture is sliding right off the metal, was the metal cleaned properly? It kind of looks like there was oily residue underneath. (Maybe Valspar could handle that fine, the current paint obviously cannot.)
 
Base coat/clear coat

Thats what I was planning for my next saw. I just asked about color so i did not have to reinvent the wheel. I am sure I am not the first guy to paint his saw with auto paint, I was just looking for a paint code that was close to the Stihl grey.

I think using 2 stage would alllow to much paint build up on the parts, so i will start looking at some paint chips.

Thanks
IMO base clear is the way to go. You can dump whatever is unused back into the can for reuse -single stage you cannot and base dries faster allowing it to grip corners. You will have far mor single stage build up trying to get coverage. Whatever you are comfortable with.
 
My local Tractor Supply no longer has Valspar. The crap they are selling now as tractor aqnd impliment paint just washes off even after two weeks of dry time.

View attachment 455941
It would be hard to find a non isocyananite paint that does not was off with gas especially with the ethanol content. A clear coat may help it it is 2 part to keep the gas out but even they have limitations.
 
I was looking into this as well a few weeks back and found a thread that said;

"These are reportedly the GERMAN paint codes for Stihl paint, I don't know how to translate to American paint codes. Old Stihl white is German paint code RAL 7035. Old Stihl Red/Orange is RAL 3000. New Stihl orange is RAL 2004. New Stihl white is RAL 9010. Hope this helps."

Just like Pantone, RAL paint codes are a standard that any good paint shop can mix.

For longevity why not try powder coating.
 
I was looking into this as well a few weeks back and found a thread that said;

"These are reportedly the GERMAN paint codes for Stihl paint, I don't know how to translate to American paint codes. Old Stihl white is German paint code RAL 7035. Old Stihl Red/Orange is RAL 3000. New Stihl orange is RAL 2004. New Stihl white is RAL 9010. Hope this helps."

Just like Pantone, RAL paint codes are a standard that any good paint shop can mix.

For longevity why not try powder coating.
Thank you for these paint codes! They will be very helpful in the restoration of my Dad's old 026.
I could be wrong, but I contacted a powder coating company a few years back and they told me it's difficult to powder coat magnesium. I guess surface prep is very tricky because bare mag oxidizes very quickly in the presence of oxygen.
 
Thank you for these paint codes! They will be very helpful in the restoration of my Dad's old 026.
I could be wrong, but I contacted a powder coating company a few years back and they told me it's difficult to powder coat magnesium. I guess surface prep is very tricky because bare mag oxidizes very quickly in the presence of oxygen.
It's kind of funny because where the paint DOES stick on a Stihl you can't get it off!
 
I would consider repainting my next car project in stihl orange body with a stihl white roof. Did Stihl ever have a good idea like mine for the company cars.
 
Having it paint matched to the current saw is the way forward. Any acrylic lacquer or enemal will work well sprayed over an etch primer.

Acrylic lacquer is thinner, dries faster and has a strong smell. Use alcohol to clean spills

Enemal is thicker, takes longer to dry, doesn’t have as volatile of a smell - use a wax and grease remover (petroleum) to clean up spills

Edit to add: both have decent fuel resistance, enemal has better long term UV resistance.
 
Having it paint matched to the current saw is the way forward. Any acrylic lacquer or enemal will work well sprayed over an etch primer.

Acrylic lacquer is thinner, dries faster and has a strong smell. Use alcohol to clean spills

Enemal is thicker, takes longer to dry, doesn’t have as volatile of a smell - use a wax and grease remover (petroleum) to clean up spills

Edit to add: both have decent fuel resistance, enemal has better long term UV resistance.
Acrylic lacquer was garbage when it was current. It is banned in most places in N. America due to VOC.
It also will stain with gas spills. Acrylic lacquer used to check. The decent lacquer was nitrocellulose.
Acrylic enamel isn't much better.
They are cost effective but not good choices.
 
No one has suggested two pack enamel. This beats both acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel. The downside is it chips easier.
Quick dry enamel with hardener is a good choice. Mainly used on industrial equipment and dry in 4-5 hours

Doesn't Western Australia have 10% ethanol?
 
No one has suggested two pack enamel. This beats both acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel. The downside is it chips easier.
Quick dry enamel with hardener is a good choice. Mainly used on industrial equipment and dry in 4-5 hours

Doesn't Western Australia have 10% ethanol?
Yep, 2k is the best, but has serious health implications from what I have been told. Shouldn’t be sprayed out in the open with people / neighbours near by!
 
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