Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos
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Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh they have some supposidly that will hold up to 2000 degrees but they wouldn't hold up to the vibration of an exhaust system[McMaster -Carr].If it were me,I would work on my welding a little bit rather than use "bondo" to make it look pretty.yep... but I still want to see the 1500F epoxy..
But alas,who am I to say.I just slice out a hole with a die grinder and omit the little pipe thingy and most likely get the same results.I have made little louvers if that counts for anything.:biggrinbounce2:
Here ya go ol' pal's. I knocked out the manufacturer so ya couldn't report me for non sponsor selling again.
And Al, if you remeber reading my post, you would recall that I only suggested adding it as a sealer between the metal that was riveted. I never suggested that you merely stick the diverter on with epoxy.
Yes welding is the best for adding exhaust diverters. But there is interest for people who have no welding or braizing talent.
Also the product that initially suggested was a manifold repair product from the same place that supplies my muffler paint. And yes it is 1500 degree epoxy.
But I will do one better, since Andys mods are developing temperatures that are so extreme, perhaps he would need higher temp epoxy such as below.
I know some how this is not true, and you will find some reason to argue further. Ok let me have it....
And Al, if you remeber reading my post, you would recall that I only suggested adding it as a sealer between the metal that was riveted. I never suggested that you merely stick the diverter on with epoxy.
Yes welding is the best for adding exhaust diverters. But there is interest for people who have no welding or braizing talent.
Also the product that initially suggested was a manifold repair product from the same place that supplies my muffler paint. And yes it is 1500 degree epoxy.
But I will do one better, since Andys mods are developing temperatures that are so extreme, perhaps he would need higher temp epoxy such as below.
I know some how this is not true, and you will find some reason to argue further. Ok let me have it....
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep,that's the stuff alright.I really don't care how you stick them together.You could make them out of pure nickle and heli-arc them for all I care.They won't run any better though.
I doubt Andy is BS ing about the temperature.Do you have a pyrometer Scott to be able to tell your temperatures on the exhaust? I don't myself.
I doubt Andy is BS ing about the temperature.Do you have a pyrometer Scott to be able to tell your temperatures on the exhaust? I don't myself.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I know about that stuff..it may be semantics, but it's certainly not an epoxy... note that it's one part to begin with. I was using similar stuff 30 years ago to fix the holes in my car mufflers.. when I was way too poor (or nuts) to replace them. In my opinion... way too brittle to be of much use on a saw, and I'd be worried about pieces getting inside and rattling around. The stuff sets up like stone (it is a ceramic).
And yes, I was playing with an EGT gauge that reads up to 1800F to see if I could tune the saw just like setting the mixture on an airplane engine (reciprocating). The answer was .. maybe... but not worth the messing around unless you had a dyno load to make it practical. Holding a saw at a constant full power in wood while reading the temps and fiddling with the saw is real pain! It was supposely accurate to +/- 50F, and I might well have been too lean at the peak reading, but...
I use paint that's rated to 1200F, but.. it also burns off in the hot spots.
And yes, I was playing with an EGT gauge that reads up to 1800F to see if I could tune the saw just like setting the mixture on an airplane engine (reciprocating). The answer was .. maybe... but not worth the messing around unless you had a dyno load to make it practical. Holding a saw at a constant full power in wood while reading the temps and fiddling with the saw is real pain! It was supposely accurate to +/- 50F, and I might well have been too lean at the peak reading, but...
I use paint that's rated to 1200F, but.. it also burns off in the hot spots.
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MikE2
ArboristSite Lurker
So exactally how do you adjust the carburator after opening the muffler up? I realize you need more fuel for the extra air flow, I just don't know how much or how to adjust it. Its a 357XP
MikE2
ArboristSite Lurker
on my 357, According to my calculations a 3/4" hole should make 85% of the size of the port on the cylinder, including the original exhaust outlet. So should I also enlargen the hole on the baffle on the inside of the muffler too, or just leave that alone and drill out the hole on the front of it?
When I have to crack the nut, I will blow out as much of the baffle as possible. You heat the crimps up cherry red in the daylight and pry em open. Just keep doing it untill the muffler falls apart. Then you can just slide it back together and recrimp the uncrimped parts once all the work is done. Just heatem back up and recrimp. Its very easy to make the muffler appear that it had never been opend up.
Keep in mind the area that is flow restricted by added screens in the port.
Hope This helps,
Scott.
MikE2
ArboristSite Lurker
Thats the next thing I was going to ask. Thanks for the information. I realy appreciate it.
So any idea on how to richen the mixture up?
Wont that start yer saw on fire though ???
Or, should we take off the muffler ???
just kidding...
I always keep a bucket of water nearby...
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
DOOD, use the search function! This information has been covered a million times. If you read the entire thread...from the beginning...you will find most of your questions have already been answered.
OLY-JIM
ArboristSite Guru
Lake, it's been some time since you've performed this Muff-Mod; have you had any issues with the clip that's pinched around your spark arrestor screen coming off or losing tension?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Nope. If anything they get real tight!
monkeyboi
ArboristSite Lurker
The clamp he used is designed to be self-adjusting-much preferred over screw-type clamps.
cmetalbend
ArboristSite Operative
joe_30psi
ArboristSite Lurker
time to do my 361
From all the reading and watching others, i believe I am gonna do mine.i love the way the saw cuts now. Can't wait to see it after the mod. All i need is the pipe and i'm gonna check on some on monday. Did anyone else notice a huge difference in their 361 after about 10 tanks of fuel or so.Mine is nite and day in power. Be the way awsome work lakeside joe
From all the reading and watching others, i believe I am gonna do mine.i love the way the saw cuts now. Can't wait to see it after the mod. All i need is the pipe and i'm gonna check on some on monday. Did anyone else notice a huge difference in their 361 after about 10 tanks of fuel or so.Mine is nite and day in power. Be the way awsome work lakeside joe
country boy
ArboristSite Operative
2159 mod
here is a pic of my 2159 i just got done i copied the double barrel muffler that a guy done that i seen in this thread.The muffler i started with was a non cat that i have been running for a while on it just had a hard time getting up the nerve to butcher it. After it was welded up and done i took it to the saw shop for retuning . fired it up and it was running lean it was turning just a hair over 14,000 tuned it back down around 13,500. It sounds really good cant wait to get er burried into some oak. I'll let you all now how she cuts when i get back to the timber and get a better closeup pic. This has been a great thread with tons of info thanks guys!!! <a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/?action=view¤t=chainsawmufflermod011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/chainsawmufflermod011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>ad
here is a pic of my 2159 i just got done i copied the double barrel muffler that a guy done that i seen in this thread.The muffler i started with was a non cat that i have been running for a while on it just had a hard time getting up the nerve to butcher it. After it was welded up and done i took it to the saw shop for retuning . fired it up and it was running lean it was turning just a hair over 14,000 tuned it back down around 13,500. It sounds really good cant wait to get er burried into some oak. I'll let you all now how she cuts when i get back to the timber and get a better closeup pic. This has been a great thread with tons of info thanks guys!!! <a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/?action=view¤t=chainsawmufflermod011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/timberguy/chainsawmufflermod011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>ad
novaman64
ArboristSite Operative
For those of you that have done the mods on the 359's, what size holes are you finding works the best?
