Same here guys, stove and pipe has build up of creosote from green wood, I had a 5' peice on then added another 5', didnt want any smoke going to neighbers, the wind likes to change direction 10 times a day, even without extentions the stove was above nearest neighbers (200') eveline due to elevation in back yard, but I worry alot about that, dont want to make anybody mad, no smoke in neighbers house but you can still smell it in the air, I guess you would still have that with an indoor woodburner! trshmn
Shaver OWF opinions and my upcomming install
- Thread starter fletcher0780
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fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
What did you use for a chimney extension? how did you attach it?
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
Sounds kind of cheesy but I just happened to have a 6’ piece of heavy wall pipe that’s O.D. would just fit inside of the original pipe on the Shaver.
I was in a hurry so I used about a #8 or 10 - 3/8’’ self drilling screw and screwed it in the smaller diameter pipe about 6’’ from the bottom then inserted it into the pipe on the Shaver.
Works great but I need at least one more section.
I used 6" double wall galvanized pipe that came in 5' sections for about $36. the pipe was a little loose around the shaver pipe (they say it takes standard 6" pipe but measures 5 1/2" O.D.)so i took some sheet metal that I had and wrapped it around the shavers pipe to get about an extra 1/4", secured that with small piece of duct tape, so it wont spring back until I put the 5' section on, nothing else to hold it, your sliding it over top 18" of the shaver pipe, duct tape will burn off so if you have to remove section put little piece tape back on before you reinstall.
I have a shaver 165 i love it i keep my pump running all the time it prevents excess water loss, i only loose 1 or 2 gallons a week, i keep my water temp at 150, if you need any pics of the water heater let me know or any questions my stove pipe i am getting a 5 inch chrome stack off a truck and installing it on mine this summer i have a friend that has a garage full, 4 and 5 and 6 inch stacks
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
How would your pump running constantly prevent water loss? You lost me here, are you saying 150* water flowing doesn’t evaporate as fast as 150* water that is still?
What are you using to measure your temperature with?
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
My guess is, the circulating water would keep the temperature of the water in the boiler lower, thus reducing evaporation (less chance of boil-over)?
Gordon,
I'd love to see pic's of your installation.
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
Good post guys’ Ill have to check the temps at the top and bottom of the water jacket, just to see what the actual temp difference is.
I wouldn’t think there would be a big difference but it does make since, the supply to the heat exchanger does come out of the top of my water jacket and the return goes into the bottom.
So it would keep it the same temp.
I don’t have any pics of my set up fletcher but I will try to get some when I get a chance.
Being able to post the pics may be another story though.
You guy’s got me to thinking so here comes some rep. Thanks!
I wouldn’t think there would be a big difference but it does make since, the supply to the heat exchanger does come out of the top of my water jacket and the return goes into the bottom.
So it would keep it the same temp.
I don’t have any pics of my set up fletcher but I will try to get some when I get a chance.
Being able to post the pics may be another story though.
You guy’s got me to thinking so here comes some rep. Thanks!
Shaver OWB
I sell Shaver OWBs. The main thing is to use good wood and make sure the
ash box is clean. Also make sure you seal the domestic hot water tank lid with a good silicone sealer. Make sure to pull the insulation wrap down over the top of the hot water tank after you seal it. A tremendous amount of heat will be lost in that area if you do not do both. We also have a new update for the Shaver to get even more BTU out of it. It is a plain 3-4 ft pipe installed
at the bottom of the furnace. I will post it as soon as I get the exact measurements. I have 4-Shaver Pro Series 165 left. They sell for $4377.00 plus shipping. After May 1st 2008 all Shavers will go up $400.00. We also have 100% financing. Financing can include all accessories and shipping.
I sell Shaver OWBs. The main thing is to use good wood and make sure the
ash box is clean. Also make sure you seal the domestic hot water tank lid with a good silicone sealer. Make sure to pull the insulation wrap down over the top of the hot water tank after you seal it. A tremendous amount of heat will be lost in that area if you do not do both. We also have a new update for the Shaver to get even more BTU out of it. It is a plain 3-4 ft pipe installed
at the bottom of the furnace. I will post it as soon as I get the exact measurements. I have 4-Shaver Pro Series 165 left. They sell for $4377.00 plus shipping. After May 1st 2008 all Shavers will go up $400.00. We also have 100% financing. Financing can include all accessories and shipping.
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
What do you mean by sealing tank lid? Do you mean seal the domestic water coil? Do you have any pictures of what your talking about?
How new is this update you speak of? My boiler was just finished being built this week. Is it a factory designed modification or designed by you? If it's factory I imagine mine will have it, unless it's only for the 165.
Thanks for the info.
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the post green man! When I have time I’ll seal mine up! My doors are ready for another application. (Really curious about this pipe.)
Cant wait for the pics.
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
Where on this picture are you talking about pulling the insulation down? The 4 foot pipe you speak of, is it in the ash pan connected to the front of the blower?
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
Where on this picture are you talking about pulling the insulation down? The 4 foot pipe you speak of, is it in the ash pan connected to the front of the blower?
The insulation is directly behind #4 & #5, #4&5 are in front of the hot water tank lid.
It’s just a mild steel cover. (That’s what needs silicon to seal the hot water tank.)
The insulation lays right on top of it, pull it bellow the hot water tank cover.
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
Geez.. guys, I ordered a Shaver 165 thinking it was more than enough for 2400 sq ft of average insulated house in NE Pa. Then I read about running out of hot water etc etc although that seemed to be remidied somewhat. I was even thinking about adding on an 800 sq ft garage. The furnace will only be 25 to 30 ft away from the residence so heat loss from the pex pipe would be almost nill.
They haven't built it yet.. and I really don't want to upsize the furnace if its not necessary. If anyone has any tricks, suggestions, I'm all ears. What I see on the website(s) is a well built boiler that will smoke when you open the door due to the chimney extending so far down toward the firebox. I would think turning off the draft blower in the rear of the stove might help a bit. Too bad there isn't already a switch for that purpose. Any exchange of info would be appreciated.
:greenchainsaw:
They haven't built it yet.. and I really don't want to upsize the furnace if its not necessary. If anyone has any tricks, suggestions, I'm all ears. What I see on the website(s) is a well built boiler that will smoke when you open the door due to the chimney extending so far down toward the firebox. I would think turning off the draft blower in the rear of the stove might help a bit. Too bad there isn't already a switch for that purpose. Any exchange of info would be appreciated.
:greenchainsaw:
It should be more than enough, the only reason that i ran out of heat and hot water was because of the cap i put on my stack, after i took the cap off i had no problems at all, never ran out of heat or hot water again. I'm 150ft. away from the house with insulated pex and the water temperature does'nt drop much. On my hanging unit in the garage which is 700 sq.ft. and the end of the return loop back to the wood burner the copper on the sides is hot enough to the point where you cannot touch it for long. So i know i'm not losing much heat from my continuous loop, which is about 220ft. I'm running the thermostat on the wood burner at 155 degree. I also added a light switch to turn off the blower when needed.
you'll have a learning period then all should be fine:
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the response, nice to know I'm not alone. A previous post indicated since Jan 2008 the Shavers had extra " pipe ". I'm wondering if this is what I saw protruding in the firebox. No other wood furnace has the pipe this far down. The up side might be better combustion, the down side is that it almost has to smoke when you open the door.
Any first hand experience with this unit/pipe ?
:jawdrop:
Any first hand experience with this unit/pipe ?
:jawdrop:
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
That pipe is there to keep all the heat from going straight up the chimney. you know, the heat rises thing
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
7
Thats what I assumed. I'm also assuming that as a result the smoke will follow the path of least resistance, in this case, along the top of the firebox and out the opened door before it decides to go back in and up the pipe. Hopefully the extra combustion is worth the smoke coming back at you.
Shaver is also looking into catalytic converters for future models which, when
operating at the correct temperatures would practically eliminate the smoke except when firing and opening the door. A housing with a rod or similar device could push the converter in and out of the stovepipe without ever opening the door. A slot could be cut in the pipe to allow this to occur. Just thinking out loud. I have no idea how they plan to do this.
Thats what I assumed. I'm also assuming that as a result the smoke will follow the path of least resistance, in this case, along the top of the firebox and out the opened door before it decides to go back in and up the pipe. Hopefully the extra combustion is worth the smoke coming back at you.
Shaver is also looking into catalytic converters for future models which, when
operating at the correct temperatures would practically eliminate the smoke except when firing and opening the door. A housing with a rod or similar device could push the converter in and out of the stovepipe without ever opening the door. A slot could be cut in the pipe to allow this to occur. Just thinking out loud. I have no idea how they plan to do this.
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