Should I worry about this Bur Oak?

[Rowan]

We have a large Bur Oak behind the woodshed, we've been there 3 yrs now and I'm not sure if the last people stored there wood here or not.....

Just curious if all the weight from the stacked wood may hurt the tree (Dad says not but he's no arborist LOL).

Also the wood had a pretty bad carpenter ant infestation (and huge white grubs). Should I get some ant poison out? Are they likely to go for the tree? Its healthy, 2 small 3" dead wood branches, and a few low hanging branches that I removed prior to have the log truck drop the load (maybe 10 branches 1" - 3").

 

[kruege84]

That's definately not good for the tree. Let it go and you'll be adding to that impressive pile of fire wood within the next couple years.

 

[Rowan]

I'd rather keep the tree

I'd rather move my wood pile than loose the tree. By move I mean into the woodshed then find a new place to air dry.

Were you refering to the weight of the wood on the roots or the ants?

 

[kruege84]

Were you refering to the weight of the wood on the roots or the ants?

Both. That's just my opinion though. Your best bet is to wait until the real pros show up to offer some advice. Good luck!

 

[PB]

That wood pile is a breeding ground for harmful insects and fungus. It is also limiting the amount of O2 to the soil. I would move it sooner than later.

 

[Rowan]

oh crap.

I thought you might say that. Thats a lot of wood to move. The shed's almost empty now, I guess I could move it in to get it off the roots. My thoughts were that it would dry better in the sun/wind. I normally move it in the fall, maybe this year I'll move it earlier.

Any suggestions for a good product to get rid of the ants?

Don't get me wrong I'm not dissagreeing with you, I'm just curious......

In the bush tree's die, they rot (via bugs and fungus) this feeds the soil and other trees right? Besides the weight why is having firewood near a tree bad? Isn't it more natural than being in a grass covered yard?

PS the wood came from less than a mile away.

 

[capetrees]

Any insect control product on the market should do. Triazinon used to be my favorite but of course, the gov. took away the good stuff.:angry2:

 

[treeseer]

That wood pile is a breeding ground for harmful insects and fungus.

And what species are you talking about? The homeowner is right; most of these organisms are beneficial. ps ants are not harmful. the best control there is to deny them habitat; then they'll move.

It is also limiting the amount of O2 to the soil.

Where in that picture is gas exchange inhibited?

as for damage from firewood, if there was a layer of coarse mulch under it, that could relieve compaction enough for the tree to tolerate it.

 

[Rowan]

Interesting....

I wondered about that..... hmm. I will move the drying spot if it is truly going to be an issue. But if I can just add mulch and continue to use it I'd rather as long as the tree is not going to be hurt.

I like the current location for the following:

Back the truck up with rounds or lengths.... cut/split then stack (no moving) air dry, then throw through the back window of the woodshed and stack for winter. No (or very little) wheel barrel or carrying involved.

But I'm not prepared to sacrifice the tree just to make my life easier, its been on this earth a lot longer than I, and I like the shade/value (even if its only perceived) it adds to our lot.

 

[Rowan]

Kind of hard to limit habitat for the ants.

It'll be almost imposible to limit habitat for the ants/bugs. The neibors 200 ac farm buts up to my fence line and there are lots of poplar in various degrees of health.

Yes the basset in the photo is the real "Rowan".

PS: Thanks for advice.

Chris

 

[Treecareconcept]

The only issue I see is the potential for soil compaction in the root zone. Ants and the other critters are part of the wood decay process, which works just fine in the woods....
Just my 2 cents.

 

[PB]

And what species are you talking about? The homeowner is right; most of these organisms are beneficial. ps ants are not harmful. the best control there is to deny them habitat; then they'll move. Where in that picture is gas exchange inhibited?

as for damage from firewood, if there was a layer of coarse mulch under it, that could relieve compaction enough for the tree to tolerate it.

Treeseer, you do make some good points, but you also like to argue. So I am going to make one post to your reply, not looking for an argument.

Okay, so if you leave firewood on the bare ground for any extended length of time and move it, is the soil wet or dry underneath? In my experience it is moist unless there are extremely dry conditions. If there are any roots protruding through the soil, fungus will thrive in this moist condition and could potentially harm the tree. Many species, not just mushrooms. There are several mycologists up stairs that would agree with me on this.

With that much wood around the tree it is covering up the soil and compacting it, therefore the O2 would not penetrate the soil as well. Not to mention the physical blockage.

Would the ants be there in the first place if there was no wood pile? Fungus and insects in the nature are normal and help in the wood decay process. I think we all agree that we have never seen wood piled up like that in the woods, not natural conditions. We live with bacteria every day, but when we are in a hospital sometimes our immune system is overwhelmed, same with the tree. (if that makes sense)

Good luck with the tree Rowan.

 

[Rowan]

Thanks all for the advice

Thanks for the advice... not sure what I'll do yet, still keeping an eye on the post to make sure I take multiple opinions into account.

PB:

The ants/grubs came in with the wood.... There were a few large oak logs in the load that I wish the logger had of left in the woods. They were infested with carpenter ants and had a significant amount of black earthy rot where some large white grubs were settled in for the winter.


There are no exposed roots, the wood is on pallets so it does hold moisture more than if they weren't there but does dry up fairly quick after rain etc.

Even if I don't decide to move the wood right away, I'll pile up whats there away from the tree and pick up the debris/bark and move it out to the fire pit.

 

[PB]

Thanks for the advice... not sure what I'll do yet, still keeping an eye on the post to make sure I take multiple opinions into account.

PB:

The ants/grubs came in with the wood.... There were a few large oak logs in the load that I wish the logger had of left in the woods. They were infested with carpenter ants and had a significant amount of black earthy rot where some large white grubs were settled in for the winter.


There are no exposed roots, the wood is on pallets so it does hold moisture more than if they weren't there but does dry up fairly quick after rain etc.

Even if I don't decide to move the wood right away, I'll pile up whats there away from the tree and pick up the debris/bark and move it out to the fire pit.

Sorry, I missed the pallets in the picture. That helps for sure with the O2 and compaction problem. Just try to avoid direct contact with the tree if at all possible.

If you move the wood, most likely the ants will move with it away from the garage.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Treeseer, you do make some good points, but you also like to argue. So I am going to make one post to your reply, not looking for an argument.

I would say Guy enjoys discourse, but then I know him a little better then others

If the pallets are not moved often, then maybe they will not compact the soil as much, walking around the stacks will, coarse chip will also help. I prefer a coarse bark product in these areas, if you can find it.

As to gas exchange, it is my understanding that percolation of water is the prime driver of the process, so big stacks of anything can limit it.

On the ant issue, most of them are attracted by decayed wood, so if the oak does not have any problems it is not a big deal. I cannot remember ever cutting a bigtree down that did not have at least a few in it somewhere.

IM(NS)HO the garage is at a higher risk of infestation in the long term. A borax barrier would help in this case, I doubt you want to spray pesticides onto wood that you will be burning in the house.

http://www.dogpile.com/dogpile/ws/results/Web/borax%20ant/1/417/TopNavigation/Relevance/iq=true/zoom=off/_iceUrlFlag=7?_IceUrl=true

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Treeseer, you do make some good points, but you also like to argue. So I am going to make one post to your reply, not looking for an argument.

I would say Guy enjoys discourse, but then I know him a little better then others

If the pallets are not moved often, then maybe they will not compact the soil as much, walking around the stacks will, coarse chip will also help. I prefer a coarse bark product in these areas, if you can find it.

As to gas exchange, it is my understanding that percolation of water is the prime driver of the process, so big stacks of anything can limit it.

On the ant issue, most of them are attracted by decayed wood, so if the oak does not have any problems it is not a big deal. I cannot remember ever cutting a bigtree down that did not have at least a few in it somewhere.

IM(NS)HO the garage is at a higher risk of infestation in the long term. A borax barrier would help in this case, I doubt you want to spray pesticides onto wood that you will be burning in the house.

seach=barax & ant

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Treeseer, you do make some good points, but you also like to argue. So I am going to make one post to your reply, not looking for an argument.

I would say Guy enjoys discourse, but then I know him a little better then others

If the pallets are not moved often, then maybe they will not compact the soil as much, walking around the stacks will, coarse chip will also help. I prefer a coarse bark product in these areas, if you can find it.

As to gas exchange, it is my understanding that percolation of water is the prime driver of the process, so big stacks of anything can limit it.

On the ant issue, most of them are attracted by decayed wood, so if the oak does not have any problems it is not a big deal. I cannot remember ever cutting a bigtree down that did not have at least a few in it somewhere.

IM(NS)HO the garage is at a higher risk of infestation in the long term. A borax barrier would help in this case, I doubt you want to spray pesticides onto wood that you will be burning in the house.

seach=borax & ant

 

[Rowan]

Borax eh?

Is that safe for pets? If not is there something on the market that is and will keep the ants out?

Thanks again to everybody for posting. I will definately get going on the clean up job, I moved fresh split stuff away from my previous stacks enough to get a riding lawn mower through tonight.

I'll get the rest stacked up on pallets along the side fence (the one with pallets{aka basset hound escape barricades} currently leaning against it). Thats about 25-30 ft from the stem will that be far enough?

The coarse bark mulch shouldn't be a problem, there's a mulch processing facility owner in my wife's family that should be able to hook me up.

I don't normally move the pallets, and as I like to keep two years wood, normally 1/2 has wood piled on it, and half doesn't.

This year with the logging operation so close to home I decided to purchase it vs hauling from where ever its free/cheap. They loaded up (semi overloaded) a Timberjack forwarder 3 times and drove it the 1 km (0.625mi) to my place. LOL you should have seen the look on the neighbor face when it came down the road. As a result I've got more wood than normal.

 

[PB]

Is that safe for pets? If not is there something on the market that is and will keep the ants out?

Thanks again to everybody for posting. I will definately get going on the clean up job, I moved fresh split stuff away from my previous stacks enough to get a riding lawn mower through tonight.

I'll get the rest stacked up on pallets along the side fence (the one with pallets{aka basset hound escape barricades} currently leaning against it). Thats about 25-30 ft from the stem will that be far enough?

The coarse bark mulch shouldn't be a problem, there's a mulch processing facility owner in my wife's family that should be able to hook me up.

I don't normally move the pallets, and as I like to keep two years wood, normally 1/2 has wood piled on it, and half doesn't.

This year with the logging operation so close to home I decided to purchase it vs hauling from where ever its free/cheap. They loaded up (semi overloaded) a Timberjack forwarder 3 times and drove it the 1 km (0.625mi) to my place. LOL you should have seen the look on the neighbor face when it came down the road. As a result I've got more wood than normal.

Borax no, Sevin maybe.

They used to advertise (not sure if they still do) that you could powder your dog with carbaryl to de-louse (sp?) them. Carbaryl is not absolutely safe, it is causing a decline is some type of bug, can't remember right now. (too many barley pops)

I wish a forwarder would drive to my house.

 

[Ed Roland]

And what species are you talking about? The homeowner is right; most of these organisms are beneficial. ps ants are not harmful. the best control there is to deny them habitat; then they'll move. Where in that picture is gas exchange inhibited?
QUOTE]


qualify, please.