Big saw starting woes!

I am wearing my forearms out starting my stihl 088 slab saw. It often takes two dozen pulls to get it running. I start it cold by using full choke till it gives out a good pop then I step it up one click to auto start and pull till it starts. The problem I am having is when it kicks back while I am pulling it rips the starter handle out of my hand pulling or tearing muscles and or tendons. I have used the the stihl elastostart handles but I have torn the elasto rubber on two new handles and don't want to keep buying the more expensive handle. Is there a magic trick to easier starting? I have been considering adapting some weight lifting straps that wrap around the wrist and then wrap around the starter handle to help take the force. Something like these
Amazon.com: wrist straps lifting

Any thoughts? I will make sure to report my findings.


SorearmCityslickinslabslicer

If it's that hard to start I would check the tune. You shouldn't have to pull maybe twice when warm and when cold most will start within 5 pulls on choke and a couple more after that.

Maybe a d-handle. Easy to grip and stuff. I love em.

cityslicker said:

I am wearing my forearms out starting my stihl 088 slab saw. It often takes two dozen pulls to get it running. I start it cold by using full choke till it gives out a good pop then I step it up one click to auto start and pull till it starts. The problem I am having is when it kicks back while I am pulling it rips the starter handle out of my hand pulling or tearing muscles and or tendons. I have used the the stihl elastostart handles but I have torn the elasto rubber on two new handles and don't want to keep buying the more expensive handle. Is there a magic trick to easier starting? I have been considering adapting some weight lifting straps that wrap around the wrist and then wrap around the starter handle to help take the force. Something like these
Amazon.com: wrist straps lifting

Any thoughts? I will make sure to report my findings.


SorearmCityslickinslabslicer

Click to expand...

Is it outdoors if so bring it in and warm it up sounds like a clogged carb or you are starting it wrong.

sounds like the low speed jet is too lean. Also, if it is kicking that much I would look at the flyweel to see if it has advanced any. the key to big saws is not being afraid to pull with all your might, if you are timid or scared, it will bite you. Are you using the decomp?

If you haven't started it after about 6-8 pulls after it pops, chances are it is flooded. Then I hold the throttle wide open and pull 5-6 times and then try again.

Once it pops I leave the decomp valve out and try to get it up on the compression cycle, then I pus the decomp valve in and start it from there.

Once it has warmed up I don't even use the decamp.

I really appreciate the responses, I am speaking mostly about dead cold starts. Everytime I pull I feel like I am pulling the moon closer to earth and I am not afraid of pulling it, yet the moon pulls back harder ripping the handle out of my hands no matter how firm I hold it. I always use both hands to pull and have one foot in the throttle handle and one foot on top of the full wrap bar to keep the saw head grounded. I have busted one plastic handle two elastostart handles and worn out a fresh pull rope in the past 6 months, I am now using #6 size stihl pull cord with all plastic handles. Logging 22 what is a D-handle? Getting it to pop is the hard part, once it pops I can usually get it started in 1 to 6 pulls. I always use the decomp valve. I was thinking the timing may be off as you said freakingstang but once started and warm it runs great and starts well. Once started off dead cold it idles fine and I will sometimes just leave it idling between cuts so I do not have to start it again. I will try to advance the low speed jet a hair and see what happens. What are your thoughts on the wrist wraps?

AmIjustAsawPullinCityDwellinUrbanTreeSalvagingWuss?

Bigger handle used on rescue saws or snowmobiles. You can really get a grip with them. I have big paws so i use them on some of my higher compression saws. Really helps. Tell ya what. Send me your address in a PM and ill send ya one.

Whats gonna happen here is you are going to get Tendonitis use a 660 and save yourself a lot or pain!

How "new" is the saw? If it's just been rebuilt it might take a while to "settle" in.

Are you wearing a good pair of gloves?

Are you sure the decomp is working well?

Someone on this site adapted an electric drill for a starter. If your dedicated to milling that might be a solution.

There's also the gym.

Definately check to make sure the carb is set right. If I remember right the max RPM on that saw is around 12,000 or even a little lower. If you get it in this range the carb should be set right. The saw should pop after 3-4 pulls on full choke, then a few pulls on half choke to clear the cylinder and run. If the saw stumbles on acceleration your carb is set to lean. The saw should take off with a nice clean acceleration even if it is cold. I have heard that an 88 needs about a 5 to 10 minute warm -up time before putting it to work or otherwise engine damage could occur. I don't believe this myself but I have heard of this more than once from people who have cooked a piston in an 88. Sthil won't admit it but there is some kind of design flaw in the engine of an 88 which is why they reccomend this long warm-up time.

I blame the ethonol in todays gas for these hard starts, especially in very cold weather. Feels like the saw is almost hydrolocking with too much fuel in the combustion chamber not wanting to fire in a cold cylinder. I don't know if a hotter plug would help or not. My 88 kind of does the same thing in cold weather along with some of my other saws. All my saws can't be set wrong so this is why I think it is the fuel we are forced to buy. You can tell when they are getting ready to fire when the pull on the rope starts to get a little on the jerky side like a saw that has had the compression raised on it . A Dee handle helps out tremendiously on these bigger saws especially in witnter when your wearing gloves.

try this. (saw is turned off and cold) saw on ground. place ball of foot on handle. grasp handle bar with left hand. now just slowly pull starter rope till you feel piston kick over. now go to full choke, and give one or two hard pulls. it should "kick over" but not start. now go to half choke and give one or two more hard pulls. if it's not running after this.... go to chainsaw forum. if restarting,with engine "warm" then give one slow pull again till engine "kicks over"(with saw switch in off position) and then go to half choke and a firm pull. saw should be running. i'm shure somebody will disagree with this method, but it works for me when i'm using my 880. only one time have i had the handle get ripped back out of my hands. i don't use the decomp.button on any of my saws. (i only use the above method for my 880, the rest i don't have to wrestle with.) i hope this helps and i hope i have not given you bad information. good luck. n8

cityslicker said:

I am wearing my forearms out starting my stihl 088 slab saw. The problem I am having is when it kicks back while I am pulling it rips the starter handle out of my hand pulling or tearing muscles and or tendons.

Click to expand...

Sounds to me like something is wrong with your saw.

My 084 is my EASIEST saw to start and the starter cord has never kicked back.

Two thoughts:

-- ignition timing is off due to some sort of flywheel/coil/keyway mismatch.

-- the stock intake timing on the big Stihls is so conservative that it may cause tough starting and kick backs. I don't understand the reasoning but it was mentioned in Gordon Jenning's book. My 084 has been ported to increase the intake duration.

Well this is what I came up with today. The handle is from stainless pipe and stainless flat stock, for the cord nipple I ground the chrome off of a 3/8" drive 1/4" socket and tig welded it in place. The wrist wrap and wrist strap are from the sporting good store. I can really tighten up on the handle with the strap relieving my fingers of alot of the strain. The bad news is the saw is still locking up or kicking back while starting cold. I did not change anything on it yet but I will be taking it to the saw shop when I can to have them look it over. I broke a fresh #6 pull cord trying to start it with this new handle my forearm felt fine but the saw did not start. Thanks for all the advice I will make sure to report my findings.


Happy new year!!!View attachment 270752View attachment 270753View attachment 270754View attachment 270755

Well hell Jon, you made your own d-handle! Thats great stuff.

Sounds like it has been talking to a big inch McCulloch. I agree with the timing being off, advanced timing will produce snapback, hard starts and flooding.

Hi
Pull the flywheel and check the key to see if it has side shear, I have had them do this if they are lean on the low side. If the key is bad replace it and adjust the low jet. It doesn,t take much side shear to throw a saw out of time enough to cause your problem. The 88s when wright aren,t that hard to pull through, there is something out of kelter.
Good luck and safe cutting