Ms 200 T Dies At Idle

My MS 200 T is having idle problems. It cuts fine, but surges to around 4k and then dies. It is around 1 1/2 years old and has very low hours. It started as a once in a while problem and is getting worse. I tried adjusting the carb and it didn't help. Are there any pattern problems ?
I use premium fuel and Stihl oil. None of my other saws are having the same problem and I use the same fuel can.

Mine does the same thing. I love the saw but I wish it ran better.

Keith

The MS200T should idle perfectly in all orientations and they generally do.



Some suggestions...


Impulse line... Gets flattened where it goes though the case, can slip off the carb box, and can split at the nipple near the cylinder.

Fuel line - cracks

Boot - split. If you've ever had a bad rear buffer mount, check the boot carefully.. I had one split around 1/3 of its circumference, and the saw still worked fine unless it was pulled on the handle!

Seals... rarely, but..


CARB. Bad Accelerator pump and not repairable if so. if your carb is a ZAMA C1Q61, 61A, B or C, it's suspect. The D and E version seem o.k.,

I have two 200t. New carb. kit, new gas line, revised crankcase seal, etc... New carb was the solution. In both saws . Zama China carbs aren´t good quality? Or what is the problem?

The EPA forced a leaner saw. To overcome that and still provide the immediate accelerator response required of a limbing saw, an accelerator pump was added. Unfortunately, on the 200T, that pump gets activated a zillion times a day, and eventually the o-ring wears and the piston messes up the carb body. Zama seems to have solved the problem with the D and E version.

Lakeside53 said:

The EPA forced a leaner saw. To overcome that and still provide the immediate accelerator response required of a limbing saw, an accelerator pump was added. Unfortunately, on the 200T, that pump gets activated a zillion times a day, and eventually the o-ring wears and the piston messes up the carb body. Zama seems to have solved the problem with the D and E version.

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Lake, both users mentioned their saws had very low hours on them...., so your message is not really encouraging...

I mentioned a while ago not to be very pleased to discover my MS200 had a china built Zama... does the rear handle saw also have this accelerator, or not ?

Don't get me wrong, I love this saw to death, just want to make sure if I can expect a problem with the carb or not ..

my 200 had that problem ever since I bought it. Later would not start at all. coil was my problem.
Other things to check, fuel line, seals,

I replaced 3 fuel lines in 2 years, and I don't use mine all that much

My 192T also had idling problems .Brought it in by the dealer and he put a
complete new carb on it (under warranty).Problems solved.

Lakeside53 said:

The MS200T should idle perfectly in all orientations and they generally do.



Some suggestions...


Impulse line... Gets flattened where it goes though the case, can slip off the carb box, and can split at the nipple near the cylinder.

Fuel line - cracks

Boot - split. If you've ever had a bad rear buffer mount, check the boot carefully.. I had one split around 1/3 of its circumference, and the saw still worked fine unless it was pulled on the handle!

Seals... rarely, but..


CARB. Bad Accelerator pump and not repairable if so. if your carb is a ZAMA C1Q61, 61A, B or C, it's suspect. The D and E version seem o.k.,

Click to expand...

Looks like it was a good desition to get the 339xp, and not the MS200 then......

....well, I have read that story before.....:greenchainsaw:

belgian said:

Lake, both users mentioned their saws had very low hours on them...., so your message is not really encouraging...

I mentioned a while ago not to be very pleased to discover my MS200 had a china built Zama... does the rear handle saw also have this accelerator, or not ?

Don't get me wrong, I love this saw to death, just want to make sure if I can expect a problem with the carb or not ..

Click to expand...

It's not China.. It's Zama's design and their QC. It's not only the "hours" but when it was built. BTW, in the USA that carb has a 2 years warranty...

Yes, the 200 has the same issue, but it's generally not a problem as th saw is now uses like a climbing saw is. I have an MS200 with an "A" carb. No problems.. The 200 carb is now "B".



The 200T 'D" carb has been on 200T for about 18 months or so now.

SawTroll said:

Looks like it was a good desition to get the 339xp, and not the MS200 then......

....well, I have read that story before.....:greenchainsaw:

Click to expand...

Those issues, part from the early carb, are the results of extensive use.. and a few thousand hours of cutting..... real world examples of what goes wrong...

The saw serial number is 162356114. The saw is 3 years old. What do I have to take off to tell which carb that I have? Can I put a new O ring in the carb if the carb body is still good? How much is a new carb? Is there a non chinese made carb available? Is Stihl doing a silent warranty of any sort?
I will look at it this weekend.
THANKS Andy

3 year and 3 weeks actually

After 3 years? warranty...? doubt it, but try you dealer... he might be able to do something for you. New carb is about $80.

Take the filter off, the two nuts holding the filter base, and remove the base.

Pull off the fuel line (clamp it if you have gas in the tank). Remove the carb screw grommet, and slide out the carb a little. Pop of the choke rod, and slide the carb fully out. The throttle linkage will fall off when the carb is almost out, and that's the same point you re-attach it when you put it back on!

The carb numbers are either stamped or laser etched onto the body. I'm betting it's an "A". best way to prove it's the carb is to simply put another on. Only takes a few minutes. Maybe you dealer has a spare "known to be good" carb.


Do check the impulse lines and fuel lines...

Replacing the accelerator pump rarely fixes the problem. The c1QS61D or E version is a fine replacement. Other than that you'd need to dig around to find a used two screw walbro from an old 020T - but they are hard to find.

THANKS for the help. I will replace the impulse line and fuel lines when I have the carb off. I'll talk to my dealer and see if he has a loaner carb.
Are most of the carbs made in china now????? I am hoping the rubber lines are the problem.

Almost all of the smaller Zama carbs are made in China - all brands of OPE...

I wouldn't replace the hoses unless they show a problem.

Thanks for all that info, Lake ! Can't repeat enough how valuable your assistance is in "AS Stihl affairs".

Heck, one just may go Stihl for the sole sake of your cyberhelp here.

belgian said:

Heck, one just may go Stihl for the sole sake of your cyberhelp here.

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careful... you know the fable of the "Pied Piper" ?

I took the carb off today and didn't see anything wrong. The tank line has some cracking and will be replaced. I couldn't figure out what the SHORT 90 degree rubber elbow that comes off of the carb goes to. Am I missing a hose?
THANKS
It is an "A" version.

The short 90 is the compensator connector from the air-filter box to the atmospheric side of the metering cover.


"A" version.. Hmmm.. try another at some point...

3 year old saw with low hours... means 200T sat around for a bit.
fuel can and does gum up from sitting in carb.

inside 200T are tiny orifices, along with an air mix tube. every orifice inside carb has to be verified as open and clear. best way is to use spray carb cleaner with a tube.

with safety glasses. place tip of carb cleaner over one hole at a time. spray and watch if mist comes out other side of orifice.

lockout pin has to be removed to clean out high speed adjustment screw/jet. if your saw is not idling, it probably circuit below low speed screw.

to do a proper carb rebuild job, one needs a precision drill set and/or carb jet reaming tool. note drill sets below were purchased at local steve's wholesale tools for $3 per set.
if you are rebuilding lots of carbs, you should be properly equipped with a miniature drill index set like below. it will restore a carb back to new performance.

here's a picture of a nice precision drill set. simply match up hole size with correct drill. don't enlarge holes, the idea is to clear out orifice back to original size.

as lake pointed out, make sure all your diafram rubber are in good shape. if needle & seat are holding, diafram are good, butterfly shaft are tight and all orifices are rendered back to stock size. then carb has to work properly!!!

always use factory presets when first starting up. 3/4 turn from bottom for high, 1 turn for low, 1/2 turn for butterfly, or what ever...

Frank Boyer said:

The saw serial number is 162356114. The saw is 3 years old. What do I have to take off to tell which carb that I have? Can I put a new O ring in the carb if the carb body is still good? How much is a new carb? Is there a non chinese made carb available? Is Stihl doing a silent warranty of any sort?
I will look at it this weekend.
THANKS Andy

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