File size

Just got a new 026 and 020 since I kinda lost one 020 this weekend My first 026 anyhow, been wanting to try one out., I had them put a 16" bar with a 3/8 .50 bar and chain on it so I won't have to worry about switching files and can use the bar on my other saw if I need to. I checked on Stihls site just to see what size file I would have needed on the .325 chain and found that I've been using a 7/32 file on my big saws when I should have been using an 11/64". Does it make that much of a difference? The files did seem a little big , but I've been using that size for a while I think??? I resharpened my 036 today back to a good edge after hitting some rocks the other day and it seems to rip?
Also the bar they put on was an Oregon pro-lite and 3/8- 7 tooth sprocket, but the oregon site shows I should use a 8 tooth with that bar, any reason to that?

Todd? didnt i read in a archived Post somewhere that you sold your saw sharpener? why was it you got rid of it?I havent filed a chain since i Bought my Oregon chain grinder.
Use that 026 for a few days then take the screen out of the muffler and open the hole up a bit or add a new one and you'll notice the difference.

Yup I sold it on ebay, just hardly ever used it, I swear it's faster to just do it by hand. I was no good at setting it up and had a bad habit of burning the edges too! I am thinking of modding the muffler but I want to run it like it is for a while to see how it does. Should make a good climbing saw when the 020 won't do.

I've always used a 7/32" file on 3/8 chains. Every one, no matter what brand or style. Never picked up an 11/64" file in my life. Never had a problem getting a rippin' edge on any chain, either. Can't tell ya how many big trees I've removed, lost count years ago. So I've used and sharpened plenty of 3/8" chain.
The saw racers may have a different opinion, but I would think it would be easier to 'duckbill' the 3/8" tooth with a 11/64" file.

Since I'm not one to swap bars on saws in the field, having interchangable bars is of no importance to me. I have no problem using the 3/16" file on the .325 chain on my 026. If you can file a 3/8", and you can file a small chain with the 5/32" file, then you can use a 3/16" on the .325. Same angles, same motion, same results.

But can you use a 3/16 on a low profile that's supposed to use a 5/32? Guess it would be about the same as using the bigger file on the 3/8? I see what you mean about the duck bill, well I think I do, you mean too much hook right?

There's a post from Walt on here somewhere that states the reason for going to the 11/64 file.

If you use a 10 degree upward file angle, like your supposed to, the 7/32 file is supposed to hit the link bar near the rivet on the inside of the chain. This is a nono according to what I have read.

I asked my dealer for a 11/64 file, and he looked at me like I had rabbit ears and a pig snout. I made him look for it, and low and behold he found some. I use them for all my 3/8' chain. Cuts very nice.

However I have only found them at the Stihl dealer.

Hope this helps.

If it's any help, I always use 3/16" files on .325 chain (026) and 5/32" for the 020T. I've never had any problems with the Rapid Micro chain I prefer. I know some people say that, once the cutters are about halfway, switch to a smaller file to avoid filing into the tie straps. Yes, that does happen to some extent, but I tend to use chains until I've filed the cutters to almost nothing (they still cut!!) and I've never had a chain break yet (touchwood).

Im not sure, but I believe its the 13/64 and not the 11/64 that works best on 3/8. The 11/64 is to small and is more designed for 325 pitch, however the 11/64 may be useful when the cutters have been filed all the way back.
13/64 will get 33Rs to cut faster than with a 7/32 I find, because Stihl cutters are harder than any other.
Regardless of what file is used, it is more technique than anything else that makes the chips fly.
John

todd,
sharpening can be hard enough so keep it simple.
3/8=7/32
.325=3/16
low pro & 1/4=5/32
angles and depth will be the biggest challanges in free hand. if you prefer 30 or 35 degrees on the top plate does not matter as long as they are all the same on both right and left banks of cutters. the top plate is what directs the cutter in the kerf. if the two banks have differant angles the saw will turn in the cut.
start the file from the inside of the cutter,drop the handle of the file slightly and rotate the file as you push it through the cutter. this will give a honeing effect. use the whole length of the file.
look down the barrell of the file and picture a clock face. the point of the cutter should contact the file in the 2:30 and 9:30 postion. this will give you a well shaped side plate that will be cutting the fiber that the point pulls. if the depth of the file is too deep, you will create "beak" and if not deep enough you will have no side plate to do the cutting.
i find that the 30 degree works best when teaching because when done correctly, not only the top plate is 30 degrees but so is the side plate and chiesel angle.
sorry seasoned guys. i got carried away. maybe some one can use this information. marty

Yeah, sorry I had a brain fart last night. its 13/64.

No disrespect to anyone, but the current manufacturers literature for Stihl chain filing calls for 0 degrees upward filing angle, or flat perpendicular to the blade. I seem to remember at one time that the 10 degree angle was called for, but I haven't seen it lately.

mike,
no disrespect, i have had the best results with what i explained. i have tried many differant ways to sharpen. every time i saw or heard of what someone else had tried, i tried it or let them demo their findings here. my way not only cuts well but is easy to maintain. i did forget to mention, keep the edge on the top plate straight. have this / and \. do not have this ( or ). marty

Yeah, what WRW said on the Stihl RS chain. I picked up on that a few years ago, now I only use the 10 degree thing on my climbing saw.

About the ten degree angle....

It doesn't tell you anywhere in the Stihl literature. I use a file guide, as a crutch, because I'm comfortable with it and I get good results. Its a Stihl model. In the literature that comes with it, it states that RS and something called Topic-Super should be filed at a ten degree angle.

If you look down your bar with the chain on there, you will see that the top plates of RS aren't level accross, but slope down towards the inside.

To me, it makes sense. My chains cut fast. Not Art Martin fast, but fast none the less.

Doh, yes it was supposed to say 13/64. As for the .325 I just don't want to have 3 different files and have the other guys pick up the wrong one, less is better! I am getting better at filing, very theraputic!

Harley,
Someone sold you an old guide.