Hey Al! Mac Pro1000 not oiling.

That's one of the few that I have no IPL,on paper or micro fiche.

As for the saw,I've never even seen one.

Al Smith said:

That's one of the few that I have no IPL,on paper or micro fiche.

As for the saw,I've never even seen one.

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Its a Partner R xx with a Mc Culloch decal.Looks an R 17 but with manual oiler.Never seen a manual oiler on a R 17.

What Al is saying is post us a dang pic Wojo.

Got the stock 066 DP cover today in hand and will be running the test between your Wojo cover, a stock DP and a modded DP real soon on a woods ported 066.

It has both auto and manual oiler

The oil pump is under the cover on the bottom of the case.

Drain the oil completely first and it still gets messy.

The saw is very close to a P-100S which is a later R40/R440

The oiler can't be that big of a deal.I've always been able to get then going.It's a toss up of the worst ones,some Poulans,Homelite xl 2 and super 2plus Mini Macs are a close three way tie.The best by far are the piston pumps used on reed valve Macs.

PES+ said:

The oil pump is under the cover on the bottom of the case.

Drain the oil completely first and it still gets messy.

The saw is very close to a P-100S which is a later R40/R440

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Actually it is the P-100 (not the S), which was inbetween the R440 and the 100S......

Quibble.....quibble

It is a lot closer to the P100s as Mac spec'd their version with a Bosch ignition as was fitted on the 100S after the Mac deal expired.

I have only worked on one 100S and it too had the manual over auto oiler.

The Jred version was indeed the P100 with the problematic Partner Thyrister electronic ignition.

I forgot about the plastic cover on the S though

The 100 S did have the plastic top cover and the 1000 had the metal top cover like the P100

I like the looks of the Partner 100 and 100S, so does this mac look similar?

PES+ said:

It is a lot closer to the P100s as Mac spec'd their version with a Bosch ignition as was fitted on the 100S after the Mac deal expired.

I have only worked on one 100S and it too had the manual over auto oiler.

The Jred version was indeed the P100 with the problematic Partner Thyrister electronic ignition.

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That is interesting, as partly counter the info I had from before, and partly fits - another piece in the puzzle........

Cut4fun said:

I like the looks of the Partner 100 and 100S, so does this mac look similar?

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Here is another tread, with a few pics, and a bit more on the ignitions....

Oops

My memory was wrong on the PM1000 oiler

I just looked and will get back to you Scott.

I remembered the earlier Partner oiler and will post some pics because I need to clean out my 1000 anyway.

:monkey:

Okay some pics

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The top pic is shows both the oilers.
The manual oiler is the block mounted on the back of the inside bar plate and the second pic shows the two mounting screws to remove it. You can also see the link that runs around the cylinder to actuate the manual oiler.

These three show how to remove the auto oiler pump

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Unscrew the top clamp screw

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Remove the screw, the clamp ring and the aluminum washer and pull the pump straight out while twisting slightly. Be careful not to drop the small metal washer that goes between the inside piston spring and outside aluminum pump housing

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All the parts removed. Check the o-ring inside the aluminum pump housing and check the seal around the pump housing where it fits in the case.

Now you can check the drive gear.

The worm gear is under the clutch side seal and you can check it without wrecking the seal like this.

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Put the piston back in the case and mesh the gear teeth back into the worm gear then stand the saw on its handle end and crank it over in the normal direction of rotation while holding your finger on the pump shaft to feel that it rotates smoothly with no catches or jumping.

BTW that third screw that can be seen in the pic is the mounting screw for the oiler pick up assembly and I will get to that in a bit.

On to the oil pick up

Open the oil tank and fish out the pick up tube then remove the screen.

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Then unscrew the bottom screw from the front of the tank and pull out the oiler feed with the oiler line still attached.

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This assembly feeds both oilers so it is very likely your problem is here.

The auto oiler and the manual oiler are both fed from one channel in the case

Two more things to check

This brass ball that is pointed out by the screw driver must be sealed. That is the top of the oil channel.

They were usually sealed with transparent epoxy like this one.

Some earlier ones were not.

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And last on the oiler list for today check the oiler adjuster screw and make sure it is not turned all the way shut as this can stop both oilers.

There are no detents but it stops in both directions

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Pest that is great work. I do not have one of those saws, but I do like the way the oiler system is built.