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I dug out my old owners manual for a 020 Super with electronic ignition.

Maximum permissable engine speed with bar and chain is 13,000 rpm. I would assume that is unloaded out of the wood.

I posted earlier about paying $600. My manual also has the bill of sale stapled to it. Wasn't quite $600 but was $ 551.00 complete with bar and chain.

Hope this helps.

Larry
 
well, i put my saw back together with the trimmer head on it last night. i dumped the old fuel, changed the plug, checked the fuel filter (looked ok---i have one on order) and refilled and it hit on the 5th pull and ran on the 6th. it has not run for two years, but we are pretty religous about using stabilizer in the fuel. i ran it for a couple of minutes and it ran great. then it started to stumble and want to die out. feathering the throttle would barely keep it running, but it would always restart. it really hesitated coming off of idle. i finally turned the H and L to the factory setting of 1.25 from seated and it seems to have fixed the hesitation and it will idle nicely, just burbling along.
after i got the hesitation fixed, i decided i would check the top end. this saw came from a City of Atlanta auction in 1979 and it has only been run with a trimmer head. i don't think it has likely ever gone over 5-6k rpm. it just isn't necessary to rev it high with the trimmer head. it really seemed to rev into the stratosphere. i don't have a tach, but just comparing it by ear to my 310, which is a tick over 13,200, it seemed to spin up much higher. some of that might be the difference in sound of due to the size of the motor. it really sounds nice at idle, like a light weight fighter: lean and mean and a lot more raw than my 310 (for a few more days anyway, until i get a chance to mod its muffler). can i calm this saw down by turning the H screw in a touch? i didn't mess with it once i got the stumble fixed bc it was bed time. i plan to put the B+C on it for limbing when i get in the woods in the next few weeks.
 
Before this thread sinks into the abyss of the archives.

Turning your H screw in will make the saw or powerhead run lean. Not good. If the saw idles steadily and accelerates cleanly and has a slight burble at WOT you probaly have it set right. If you start to cut wood with it you can tell if it is running lean when you reach the midpoint of a piece of wood that is almost the same diameter as the bar is long. The saw will stumble ,lose momentum in the cut and will slow down. If the carb is set right it should just keep chugging along assuming the chain is sharp. A proper tuned saw feels like it is shifting gears or going into overdrive when it gets midpoint into a log. Hunkers down and keeps right on cutting

I got my hedgetrimmer attachment mounted and bolted up last night to an AVP 020. Here is a couple pics.
 
I dug out my old owners manual for a 020 Super with electronic ignition.

Maximum permissable engine speed with bar and chain is 13,000 rpm. I would assume that is unloaded out of the wood.

Hope this helps.

Larry


Great, thank you! Can't remember if I set it at 11,500 or 12,500, but either way it looks like I'm not pushing it then.

If anyone missed my video I'll post a link again. I shot this just after I added an impulse hose to the saw, since I've heard they work better wit one. Yep, it actually was totally gone, and considering that, it really didn't run too bad before...

It could probably be a little bit better tuned yet, but you can hear the "gear change" when it's coming into the log.
 
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