020AVP Carb Adjustment

[Beer Gut]

A guy from my work brought me his Stihl 020AVP, said him and another guy were cutting with it, the saw wouldn't start after refuel. So like fools they adjusted the carb without knowing how. I got the saw the saw to run now but on this saw and this old of a model don't know where the screws should be and would like to fine tune it from there.

Anyone know from full clockwise on the H and L where the standard is to back off to on this model?

One full turn counterclockwise on each? :dunno:

Thanks

 

[StihlScott]

Hey Beergut,

The manual (which I have right here) says 1 to 1-1/4 turns out for both the H & L screws.

Good luck...this saw is pretty picky.

StihlScott

 

[Beer Gut]

Hey Beergut,

The manual (which I have right here) says 1 to 1-1/4 turns out for both the H & L screws.

Good luck...this saw is pretty picky.

StihlScott

Thanks much

 

[Beer Gut]

Ok here's the problem now I have the screws set to a little better than one full turn off now. I can start the saw and it will stay running with the choke on but it idles way to fast, and as soon as the choke is removed it rev's way up and dies. Throttle is zero.

I'm thinking there is a major air leak somewhere.

Your guy's thought's?

 

[StihlScott]

Beergut,

This is EXACTLY the same problem I'm having with the restoration project I've been doing on my Dad's old 020AV.

I still haven't been able to sort it out. Air leak seems to be the prevailing thought. I did a pressure test, and it holds for about 5-10 minutes (10 psi) but it bleeds down over the period of an hour. It holds a vacuum overnight...

These are kinda tricky...the left side cover actually has a "flange" where the fuel line terminates. This "flange" mates up with the inlet to the carb (this happens when the cover is installed and the carb bolts get tightened down). This has to got to be the hokiest design I have ever seen. I'm telling you this, because if you try to take the thing apart you may "tear" the flange off the end of the fuel line, requiring a new fuel line.

That being said, the attachment between the fuel line & carb is one of the known spots for air leaks. Additionally, there is the impulse line and the carb mounting boot.

You won't be able to see any of these issues without removing the cover. Just be careful if you decide to dig into it further.

StihlScott

 

[Beer Gut]

Beergut,

This is EXACTLY the same problem I'm having with the restoration project I've been doing on my Dad's old 020AV.

I still haven't been able to sort it out. Air leak seems to be the prevailing thought. I did a pressure test, and it holds for about 5-10 minutes (10 psi) but it bleeds down over the period of an hour. It holds a vacuum overnight...

These are kinda tricky...the left side cover actually has a "flange" where the fuel line terminates. This "flange" mates up with the inlet to the carb (this happens when the cover is installed and the carb bolts get tightened down). This has to got to be the hokiest design I have ever seen. I'm telling you this, because if you try to take the thing apart you may "tear" the flange off the end of the fuel line, requiring a new fuel line.

That being said, the attachment between the fuel line & carb is one of the known spots for air leaks. Additionally, there is the impulse lineage and the carb mounting boot.

You won't be able to see any of these issues without removing the cover. Just be careful if you decide to dig into it further.



StihlScott

Oh boy this is gonna be a nightmare. This saw has a cracked crankcase that has been repaired im testing now

 

[Beer Gut]

While attempting to test and looking at the left cover like you stated I'm not sure I will go farther the cover and gas tank gasket is gone instead there is some kind of goop there I need to contact him this project will have money involved that's for sure.