024 carb re-build Q....

[MotorSeven]

Hello gang...new guy here with a question or two. I have a (bought new in '83) 024AV Super. It's along story, but i thought i had a piston/ring prob, but embarassingly enought it was a clogged muffler screen that my shop figured out in about 3 min. I left it there to get it tuned because i had monkeyed with the carb screws over the years and tuned it by ear. The tech called and said that the carb has to be replaced, so i stopped by to get the scoop, thinking that a re-build would be cheaper. The tech showed me on the carb that the mix screw when seated down a little too hard damages the inside of the carb, and this can't be rebuilt....a $70 lesson.
I am going to be running this, a 210, and 066(Chainsaw mill) extensively for the next 2 years while building a log home out of Eastern Red Cedar. I will be doing alot of maintenance on my saws, and have just picked up a Stihl tach. I know that the small carbs are much more delicate than those of a car or dirt bike, but are there any tricks or go-bys to keep from over seating these mix screws. Any specialty tools i should add to the collection? Also, is there a book out there that can help teach me the basics of saw tuning/maintenance? Or am i better off taking a small engine course provided i can find one? I obviously have a ton to learn, and i don't mind leaving the big jobs to the pro's, but i do want to avoid problems in the field. The maddness starts in Oct, so i am currently collecting equipment and researching as much as possible.

RD

 

[Lakeside53]

Just turn the screws gently in until they touch the seats, then out the 1 turn for initial setting. From that point on any adjustments are a long way from the seats. No special tools, just a light touch.

Even damaged, the seats usually work just fine... might not be able to set the carb at standard settings, but... you can also "repair" most seats with a fine taped punch...

For your 066 when milling... Be REALLY rich on the H screw. DON'T tune for max RPM... set it for about 10,500 max and run about 40:1. Be sure to have a high output oil pump or an aux oiler, and, check and regrease the clutch drum bearing daily. Sure you can get way with it for day to weeks, but milling is rough on the clutch bearing as the oil rarely gets back to the drum. Every three or 4 times off, replace the circlip with new - only a few pennies... Assuming you have a compressor on site, blow out the saw daily... and have the tools you need for truing your bar / sharpening the chains. if I was building an entire home with a mill, I'd have a chain grinder on site.

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks Lake, i've never greased the clutch bearing before....thought it was a sealed thing...shows how much i have to learn. I plan on building an aux oiler, and yes, although i have always sharpened by hand, a grinder set up is in the works(any suggestions to a good bench type?).
As to the damaged carb, i was shown with a magnifier what looked like a small pin-like hole inside the carb(it was off-set from the jet hole i think), which the Tech said was the damage. Can the needle punch thru the wall of the carb? When i get the old carb i will post some pics, as i may be describing the thing in chinese to you guys. I hate being sofar in the dark on this, and i hope i haven't any shop wool pulled down over my eyes......er...ah....not that ANY shop would do such a thing:greenchainsaw: !

RD

 

[Lakeside53]

Thanks Lake, i've never greased the clutch bearing before....thought it was a sealed thing...shows how much i have to learn. I plan on building an aux oiler, and yes, although i have always sharpened by hand, a grinder set up is in the works(any suggestions to a good bench type?).
As to the damaged carb, i was shown with a magnifier what looked like a small pin-like hole inside the carb(it was off-set from the jet hole i think), which the Tech said was the damage. Can the needle punch thru the wall of the carb? When i get the old carb i will post some pics, as i may be describing the thing in chinese to you guys. I hate being sofar in the dark on this, and i hope i haven't any shop wool pulled down over my eyes......er...ah....not that ANY shop would do such a thing:greenchainsaw: !

RD

A pin-prick hole off to the side was either a casting defect or more likely someone ramming a sharp object (like a probe) down the hole... The needle threads into the hole and centers, so unless someone put the wrong needle (the H and L are different sizes) it can't happen... Most damage is "seats crushed", but they still work... Did you poke around in the holes with any tools?

 

[MotorSeven]

Nope, when i adjusted the set(s) i never even took them completly out, nor did i screw them down "tight". I've done enought carbs in my time to know better than that....mokeyed, but not gorilla'd.....:monkey: ! Hmmm, can't wait to get the carb at lookt at it closely. Kinda makes me go.....hmmmm.....!

 

[Lakeside53]

Nope, when i adjusted the set(s) i never even took them completly out, nor did i screw them down "tight". I've done enought carbs in my time to know better than that....mokeyed, but not gorilla'd.....:monkey: ! Hmmm, can't wait to get the carb at lookt at it closely. Kinda makes me go.....hmmmm.....!

Glad to hear it.

if you need a second opionion, post it to me...

 

[Lakeside53]

Nope, when i adjusted the set(s) i never even took them completly out, nor did i screw them down "tight". I've done enought carbs in my time to know better than that....mokeyed, but not gorilla'd.....:monkey: ! Hmmm, can't wait to get the carb at lookt at it closely. Kinda makes me go.....hmmmm.....!

Glad to hear it.

if you need a second opinion, post it to me...