024AV how do I muffler mod it?

[MrPerry]

Hi all.
I'm new here and haven't got much experience to brag about when it comes to chainsaws. I was given a 024AV and after cleaning off about 100kg of dirt, grease, grime and checking it over, cleaning air filter, adding new fuel, it started on first pull and with a little adjustment of the carby she runs very nice. I know this saw was more or less standard with a 16 inch bar, .325 chain. It had a 14inch 3/8 pico with not much chain left. Even the links are filed LOL. Anyway, I have ordered a new sprocket (7) and an Oregon combo, 16 and .325 67. Also ordered a new sprocket cover as it has seen better days. How do I know if the muffler have been modded? How can I mod it? Anythi g else I can do to "spiff it up" a bit?
Thanks

 

[Mad Professor]

Show us pictures so we know how to advise.

 

[HansFranz]

If you open up the muffler, be sure to richen up the carb to avoid leaning it out and burning it up.

If you muff mod it and it "screams," that's a sign of it being too lean. It needs to have that "four stroke" burble or flutter out of the cut when you open the throttle. The Madsen's chainsaw site has .wav files that will show you what it should sound like.

 

[MrPerry]

Here are a few pics of the muffler.

 

[MrPerry]

 

[MrPerry]

 

[MrPerry]

 

[trains]

I would leave the muffler alone, they flow pretty well anyway compared to later saws, I would suggest you get a carb kit and fuel filter, and check the fuel line and impulse line for perishing/ cracks on a saw that age, and or just replace them. Go Gen stihl, chinga rubber parts are not that good.
They are lovely little saws, so worth investing into.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

What he ^^^ said- plus check and think about main crank seals for leakage.
They are a nice wee honest saw that does what small saws do just fine and better than most similar as not many wee saws are mag cased with a bolt down cylinder and are slightly more consumer grade!
Leave the muffler be, no need to make holes for little gains in this one.

 

[MrPerry]

Thanks heaps for your replies. Thats it then. No muffler mods. Will check fuel lines etc. I think the only leak I nhave noticed seemed to be a bit of excess bar oil but I think it might have been a buildup and bad fit of the bar. Thanks again.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks heaps for your replies. Thats it then. No muffler mods. Will check fuel lines etc. I think the only leak I nhave noticed seemed to be a bit of excess bar oil but I think it might have been a buildup and bad fit of the bar. Thanks again.

If the engine is running- they pump oil.
Unlike clutch driven oil pumps on more modern saws that only oil when the chain is turning- so yes, they can be a bit messy with oil if you spend more time at idle than WOT cutting.

 

[sean donato]

Also once your done running the saw, let it cool off then open the oil fill a bit and let the air equalize. Seems to help keep pressure from building up in the tank....

 

[MrPerry]

Thanks heaps for some good advice. I have one smallnfavour to ask...I'm making a carry box for the chainsaw, oil, gloves, face shield and tools. I have not received the new 16inch bar yet (oregon .325 67DL) can anyone tell me the overall length of the saw in mm please. I'm hoping just under 800mm or no more than. Cheers.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks heaps for some good advice. I have one smallnfavour to ask...I'm making a carry box for the chainsaw, oil, gloves, face shield and tools. I have not received the new 16inch bar yet (oregon .325 67DL) can anyone tell me the overall length of the saw in mm please. I'm hoping just under 800mm or no more than. Cheers.

 

[cookies]

I would tear it all the way down and refresh the case gaskets, crank seals, new rings, fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, walbro or zama carb kit, ngk plug. Around a total cost of 130 bucks for all of it and you will have a saw ready for daily work that will last another 30 years. With it fully ripped apart you can really clean it through and throughout, inspect the piston/cylinder/wrist pin and bearing for wear, look over av mounts, intake boot for cracks and chaffing on the ignition wire. You can request the repair manual and parts list pdf in the beg for manuals thread that can be found using the search bar in the upper right corner. It would also be a good idea to search for other rebuild/problem/modification threads to see what others have done/found/corrected.
Welcome to arborist site

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Lots of very valuable advice on this thread for the OP.

 

[BrettS]

I would tear it all the way down and refresh the case gaskets, crank seals, new rings, fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, walbro or zama carb kit, ngk plug. Around a total cost of 130 bucks for all of it

It depends on what country you are in, generally only in 'murica' can you get things that cheap....

 

[KASH]

I would run it as it is why change out perfectly good parts before they fail.
Kash

 

[MrPerry]

I would tear it all the way down and refresh the case gaskets, crank seals, new rings, fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, walbro or zama carb kit, ngk plug. Around a total cost of 130 bucks for all of it and you will have a saw ready for daily work that will last another 30 years. With it fully ripped apart you can really clean it through and throughout, inspect the piston/cylinder/wrist pin and bearing for wear, look over av mounts, intake boot for cracks and chaffing on the ignition wire. You can request the repair manual and parts list pdf in the beg for manuals thread that can be found using the search bar in the upper right corner. It would also be a good idea to search for other rebuild/problem/modification threads to see what others have done/found/corrected.
Welcome to arborist site

Thank you. I will consider this for sure.
I just received bar and chain. Still waiting for the sprocket though...these small details are stretching the patience hahaha.
Talk about patience...
I built a nice plywood box, sealed it, painted it. Proud as heck. When I meassured the saw I still had the old bar on that I assumed was 14 inch. I added about 2.5 inches thinking that will be nice a snugg - perfect fit, no rattling. I'm just looking at it now and I have a feeling the length inside the box is going to be about 5mm too short. LOL!
I might just chisel out a little slot in the wall for the nose to sit in. Problem will be when the chain stretches. Oh well. There's plenty of plywood in the world. (Constructive optimism...)

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thank you. I will consider this for sure.
I just received bar and chain. Still waiting for the sprocket though...these small details are stretching the patience hahaha.
Talk about patience...
I built a nice plywood box, sealed it, painted it. Proud as heck. When I meassured the saw I still had the old bar on that I assumed was 14 inch. I added about 2.5 inches thinking that will be nice a snugg - perfect fit, no rattling. I'm just looking at it now and I have a feeling the length inside the box is going to be about 5mm too short. LOL!
I might just chisel out a little slot in the wall for the nose to sit in. Problem will be when the chain stretches. Oh well. There's plenty of plywood in the world. (Constructive optimism...)

See the photo above? With an 16 and .325- I would say at around 810mm internal you are goung to have a push fit.