026 fuel line id

[volks-man]

a friend gave me an 026 to throw a fuel line on for him. in return i get to use it!!! sweet!!!

prob is that the line is gone, it crumbled and was thrown away some time ago. 026 ipl shows two lines available. how do i know wich is the correct one? are they interchangeable (superceded part)?

supposedly ran fine till tank line deteriorated. any other issues i need to address with a saw that has been sitting with the tanks dry for a while (impulse line, rubber rings, boots, ect.)?

lastly any chain recomendations for this saw (other than stihl chain)?
i believe the bar says .325 67 link and 16 gauge? markings are worn but i think thats what it says.

thanks fellas

 

[Lakeside53]

there are actually three different fuel lines, two of which are not interchangable. ... What is your serial number?..

 

[volks-man]

uh oh

where do i find it? i found numbers all over the saw but they seem to be part numbers for various larger parts on the saw. please don't say it was on a decal on the lower rear chain side of the saw. there is a ghost there but no sticker anymore... whatever it was.
rich

 

[bcorradi]

The serial # will be written on a metal plate on the barside of the muffler.

Refer to ultra's picture in post #3 here to see where the serial # is.

 

[volks-man]

serial

nice spot. obscured by the chainbrake handle.
completely covered in dried oily dirt. i had put it away for the evening but now it is sitting on the hearth.
s/n is 228242469

 

[bcorradi]

I'm guessing its the old style XXXX XXX 1705 line, but andy will be able to confirm it by the serial #.

 

[volks-man]

chain and the bar gauge

any suggestions for the chain style. i'm using oregon 33lg (as i recall) on my echo cs-440 in .325 50 gauge. no trouble with it, seems to cut good and sharpen easy enough.


as far as the bar markings:
i figure the '16' would be bar length but it is marked right next to the picture of the bar slot. pitch only reads 3.... after that the paint is gone. i would only assume that for the size saw it would be .325 50 gauge chain.

 

[bcorradi]

any suggestions for the chain style. i'm using oregon 33lg (as i recall) on my echo cs-440 in .325 50 gauge. no trouble with it, seems to cut good and sharpen easy enough.


as far as the bar markings:
i figure the '16' would be bar length but it is marked right next to the picture of the bar slot. pitch only reads 3.... after that the paint is gone. i would only assume that for the size saw it would be .325 50 gauge chain.

If it is .325 it s .063 gauge and 67DL is correct.

 

[Lakeside53]

The correct hose for the small opening tank is is the 1121 358 7705.

 

[Jacob J.]

If yours has the old style tank vent with the red rubber one-way check valve and it's been sitting, replace that check valve. It's cheap and they tend to dry out on a saw that's been sitting and they leak badly. Sometimes if the saw hasn't been sitting too long they'll have enough life left in them to swell back up and do their job.

 

[volks-man]

anyone know the age of this thing by serial? 228242469. says made in west germany on the side.
any tricks to replacing the rubbers in the av system?
anyone sitting on a service manual out there?
thanks fellas.
great help thus far!

 

[Lakeside53]

Tricks? Push them out; push in new... I wouldn't replace them unless they are cracked.

 

[chainsaw kid]

Tricks? Push them out; push in new... I wouldn't replace them unless they are cracked.

Andy, what you think of using just a tad of vasoline or what I use is dow corning dielectric grease to help push it through/seat it. Like I said, just a touch and it will wash away and help things along.

 

[teacherman]

What is the difference between 026's that say made in USA and made in Germany? I never noticed that until yesterday. I thought all the pro grade Stihls were made in Germany.:greenchainsaw:

 

[bcorradi]

Andy, what you think of using just a tad of vasoline or what I use is dow corning dielectric grease to help push it through/seat it. Like I said, just a touch and it will wash away and help things along.

Yeah that would work fine. Usually when your replacing bad used with good used ones they usually have a coat of oil on them already so they go in pretty easily. Even new ones press in pretty easily without coating them with anything.

 

[chainsaw kid]

Yeah that would work fine. Usually when your replacing bad used with good used ones they usually have a coat of oil on them already so they go in pretty easily. Even new ones press in pretty easily without coating them with anything.

Thanks Brad. I thought the ghost whisperer would've chimed in....lol...opcorn:

 

[volks-man]

What is the difference between 026's that say made in USA and made in Germany? I never noticed that until yesterday. I thought all the pro grade Stihls were made in Germany.:greenchainsaw:

what he said

 

[volks-man]

Tricks? Push them out; push in new... I wouldn't replace them unless they are cracked.

the saw is loose. before i freed up the chain brake the handle would smack me in the hand when starting the saw. ouch:censored: . now the brake is just a touch further so it doesn't hit me (barely), but the saw is still really wobbly. jello like. the front av looks oily. i figured that (like an old volkswagen transaxle mount) frequent oil contact has weakened it, and started goo-ifying it. the top av mount is really sloppy. i figure it cant hurt to replace and tighten the saw up a little.

by the way... this is a learning experience for me. anything i can do to the saw and not kill it goes toward futhering my know-how.
thanks again guys!

 

[Lakeside53]

what he said

zero difference.