Stihl 026 not starting, possible fuel issue!?!? Help

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bromi5

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Hey guys,
After searching all of the threads on here and trying my hardest to find a solution to my stubborn 026 not starting I’ve decided to make a post and ask for help

I’ve had this 026 for about a year now and it ran fine but would get hot after use and not start so I let it sit for about half a year and about 3 months ago I took the carby out and cleaned it and when I put it back together it wouldn’t start. From then I’ve replaced fuel line, fuel filter and put on a carby kit replacing all of the gaskets and diaphragm, metering lever, spring and the pointy thing attached to the lever. I’ve also cleaned it numerous times with carby cleaner and disassembled and reassembled.

I’ve checked impulse line for visible issues and it seems to be fine, piston is in very good condition. Replaced spark plug, spark is good

My idea is that it’s a fuel issue because it starts when fuel is put in spark hole and it runs momentarily until fuel runs out. I can get it to sputter idle by turning metering lever high and adjusting tuning screws and holding trigger but that doesn’t solve anything.

It won’t start but it sputters and sounds like it wants to start when chord is pulled and compression valve also pops up but it wont
Start

What is very strange is that recently I saw a YouTube video of a guy saying that bad fuel caps can cause them not to start so I turned the seal around and put the cap back on and low and behold it started, ran and idled normally for a minute or two then just shut off, not wanting to start again, so I flipped the seal again and it did the same thing and wouldn’t start again after a couple minutes of running.

So I figured it was just a bad fuel cap, bought a new one and now it’s back to just not starting.

Help to get this beast going would be appreciated guys
Thanks
 
Hey guys,
After searching all of the threads on here and trying my hardest to find a solution to my stubborn 026 not starting I’ve decided to make a post and ask for help

I’ve had this 026 for about a year now and it ran fine but would get hot after use and not start so I let it sit for about half a year and about 3 months ago I took the carby out and cleaned it and when I put it back together it wouldn’t start. From then I’ve replaced fuel line, fuel filter and put on a carby kit replacing all of the gaskets and diaphragm, metering lever, spring and the pointy thing attached to the lever. I’ve also cleaned it numerous times with carby cleaner and disassembled and reassembled.

I’ve checked impulse line for visible issues and it seems to be fine, piston is in very good condition. Replaced spark plug, spark is good

My idea is that it’s a fuel issue because it starts when fuel is put in spark hole and it runs momentarily until fuel runs out. I can get it to sputter idle by turning metering lever high and adjusting tuning screws and holding trigger but that doesn’t solve anything.

It won’t start but it sputters and sounds like it wants to start when chord is pulled and compression valve also pops up but it wont
Start

What is very strange is that recently I saw a YouTube video of a guy saying that bad fuel caps can cause them not to start so I turned the seal around and put the cap back on and low and behold it started, ran and idled normally for a minute or two then just shut off, not wanting to start again, so I flipped the seal again and it did the same thing and wouldn’t start again after a couple minutes of running.

So I figured it was just a bad fuel cap, bought a new one and now it’s back to just not starting.

Help to get this beast going would be appreciated guys
Thanks
1. What is the make and model of the carb?
2. Did you use an OEM kit in the carb when you rebuilt it?
3. Did you assemble the carb with the gaskets/diaphragms in the correct order?
4. Did you check/set the metering lever height when you rebuilt the carb?
 
1. What is the make and model of the carb?
2. Did you use an OEM kit in the carb when you rebuilt it?
3. Did you assemble the carb with the gaskets/diaphragms in the correct order?
4. Did you check/set the metering lever height when you rebuilt the carb?
Carb is an OEM walbro carb from the older model with the plastic fuel attachment thing. I’m not home atm but I can check the exact make and model tomorrow

I used a AM kit in the carb but I’m not sure how that could result in it not starting? I’m sure a bad kit would have it run poorly but it looks like it would work and there’s nothing wrong looking with it.

Gaskets and diaphragm are in the correct order

I’ve adjusted the metering lever to the two shoulders around the lever which is the correct way to do it according to other forum posts and info.

What’s stumped me is that it started and ran perfectly after flipping the fuel cap rubber then after a couple minutes died.
Cheers.
 
Don't get tunnel vision here. OEM fuel line or AM? Is the spark constant? Is the intake boot OK?
In the shop, this would be checked for an air or vacuum leak. Eliminate the no cost stuff first.
Is the compression OK? Use the hold it by the starter handle test.
 
Don't get tunnel vision here. OEM fuel line or AM? Is the spark constant? Is the intake boot OK?
In the shop, this would be checked for an air or vacuum leak. Eliminate the no cost stuff first.
Is the compression OK? Use the hold it by the starter handle test.
Ive replaced it with an AM fuel line, I am aware that they can pinch but mine doesn’t seem to be pinching, I’ve inspected intake boot and it doesn’t seem to have any issues visibly. I can hold it from the starter handle but it very slowly drops so I reckon compression should be alright. I’m thinking of buying a compression test kit soon to properly check although it doesn’t seem to be the main issue causing it not to start. Also the compression valve pops up when I pull the chord and it sounds like it wants to start but doesnt.

Spark is good and when I put the spark plug up against the casing and pull there is visible consistent spark when pulled.

The plastic fitting doesn’t seem to be leaking at all because today I hooked up a bike pump and there was no air coming out of the fitting so that should be good, no air was coming out of the gaskets either. Also when I open choke and pull 20 times and inspect the carb there is no fuel in either sides?? And spark plug is dry Making me think the issue is Carby related? I’m not an expert and the more investigate the more it confuses me haha.

Tank vent was in good condition until today when I tried to take it out and broke it so now there’s no vent at all, but it should still do it’s job nonetheless I think?

I’ve yet to replace the impulse line but I’ve looked at it and it looked alright and I blew into it and it wasn’t losing air anywhere.

I’m keen to fix this thing so opinions and advice is welcomed 👍

Cheers guys appreciate it
 
Have you replaced the fuel filter? Do you have the screws on the carb set 1 to 1 1/4 turns out? Are you sure the jets on the carb aren't clogged?
 
Does fuel flow out of the AM fuel hose when it is off the carburetor? I have had 4 that would not. Sure does make you scratch your head over something simple. New OEM fuel line fixed them all. Same with AM fuel filters. They love the sell the old orange fuel filter we have not used since the 80s. Two of those would not pass fuel either.
I do not mean a dribble. It should RUN out of the fuel hose.
 
Quit piddling around with it, you know you have fueling issues and the saw is 30+ years old meaning you should have started with a pressure/vac test and at a minimum you will need to replace all of the rubber-- fuel hose, tank vent, impulse hose, spark plug and fuel filter. You replaced the carb guts with a aftermarket kit with little to no knowledge about what to look for in the parts differences also leaving the possibility of reversing the gaskets and diaphragm so I would start there after replacing the other listed items.
 
Hey guys, I’ve pressure vac tested it and it seems that the white elbow is actually leaking when I spray soapy water on it and pressurise to 7psi ish. I bought a metal one and a plastic replacement and I’ll see how that goes. I was just wondering can a leak from the fitting cause the chainy to not start or would it just cause bad idle and running. Cheers for the help lads.
 

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