026 rebuild port and 044 carb!

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What I acomplished today!

Today I made a aluminum plate to cover the big hole I had to cut in the carb housing to fit the 044 carb. I also blended the lower transfers then bolted the jug to each half to be sure there were no edges left all fits perfect now. Also I enlarged the windows on the piston and smoothed the edges and rounded the edges inside and out. I also ported the muffler by cutting the rectangle raised piece out of it and painted it. (no pics of that yet)

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Sundays work

I did not get a bunch done had a soccer game to go to for little man. But I sanded the plastic took all the scratches out and some were very deep. I may paint some flames on the top cover before I clear it just for fun. I used 320 paper did a great job the look very good. I also made a base gasket so now the squish should be around .018-.019 this should be just right. Waiting for parts to put the crankcase back together then I will take some measurements and port the rest of the jug.

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Probably a bit much on the lower transfers....you have to remember they are not a funnel.

Point well taken I believe the picture may be a tad deceptive. I merely ran the shape that was there down to the base I understand the concept that the lower could be the size of a small car however its flow will be regulated by the smallest opening (top ports) I just tried to smooth it for a less disruptive flow of gasses. Again thank you, all advice is much appreciated as I am still learning and hope to always be.
 
Point well taken I believe the picture may be a tad deceptive. I merely ran the shape that was there down to the base I understand the concept that the lower could be the size of a small car however its flow will be regulated by the smallest opening (top ports) I just tried to smooth it for a less disruptive flow of gasses. Again thank you, all advice is much appreciated as I am still learning and hope to always be.

Yes, the flow will be regulated by transfers, but change in cross section or area of a port can hurt flow. Keeping the cross section constant will keep the velocity in the port stable.
 
Today I received my parts so I put the crankcase together I froze the crank and heated the case and it actually slid together with ease. Then I traced the port on the piston and made mesurements each side of the ports will be moved out .240 this will wind up being 80% of the bore. I marked it all tomorrow I will port the cylinder. I also clear coated the plastic. She is starting to look like a saw again I am getting excited.

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brad,
will a 194 carb support a mild port job? i would like more power but the all-in nature of the carb swap is a little more than i have time to undertake. i do have a 044 carcass in the shop so i could do it up as is discussed in this thread.

nice work GD.
 
Quit an impressive project there and looking GOOD !!
on the walbro,,one of the mods for them is the little cutout,,controlling most of the idle airflow..slightly enlarging it and making sure it is centered for the little holes in the carb bodies should give a smoother idle..of course low speed jet and idle speed needs to be adjusted to compensate..if to big a carb is put on and there is an idle problem and cant be adjusted it is because the carb is to big..outside of displacement changes in the engine an original carb can be reworked saving a lot of time and trouble..minor porting ,especially when compresion is raised lowering cylinder volume the increased need for fuel will "usually" not excede what the carb can supply..if the hi speed jet cannot turn out enough to supply the needed fuel then yes a larger carb is needed."IF" more is needed the stock carb is very easy to rework ..the increased "venturi" ( increased air ) affect sought by using a bigger carb results in detuning of the larger carb making it work outside of it's intended range losing some of it's efficiancy..the stock carb can be modded easily to get the same affect and result in better effeciancy and more power..
i have posted before the info on modding the walbro and where to get better detailed info to do it it but now seems lost to me and as it is now a moot point as your project is coming along so nice..
BUT,,if anybody wants to look to the ultralight flying guys for carb mods remember THEY depend on what they do to keep themselves alive..a good incentive for doing things right..
 
Almost complete pics!

Here are some pics of it almost complete I fabricated a new choke flap out of aluminum due to the increased size of the hole. As for the muffler mod I closed the factory opening and used a 3/4 steel pipe. Removed the factory choke flap from the carb and smoothed it all inside. The factory choke lever does work now. I think I need a larger exhaust opening I am thinking a 288 deflector somewhere discrete on the side. Saw starts up and idles great seems to have some real power I have a 18" 3/8 chain and bar now I will be switching to a 16" .325 with a 8 tooth drive. I am going to try to finish her up today and maybe put her in some wood.
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The saw is completely done have not cut with it yet. Seems to idle great has the throttle response I have grown to love from modded saws. It seems to be happy about 15400 rpms with the flock filter (tons of restriction) four strokes real hard. I really can not wait to cut with it. I will post new pics soon. I also added another port in the muffler.

:chainsawguy:
 
Do you still have a functional choke using the master control switch? I've yet to mess with mine any more.

Yes I was able to make it so the factory choke lever works the hardest part was making the new little choke flap in the air filter housing. After I enlarged the factory hole to match the new carb the factory flap was to small. I had to remove the little baffle in the filter housing to get the new flap to open fully. I have never run a stock 026 but this thing has some real zip definitely think it may really beat me 346 (not modded yet)
 
Absolutely top notch looking work!:clap: You took your time and put alot of work into it and it SHOWS!:chainsaw:
 

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