034 super issues

[kyle.kipple]

I received this ugly turd in on trade several months back. Was told runs but idles crazy then dies. I got it home pulled the muff and seen light scoring on piston. At the time i was getting ready to move so it was put on hold until a few days ago. Scoring was only on exhaust side (air leak right?) but it was very light. Replaced the almost split in 2 fuel line, quick carb cleaning and adjustment and she runs very strong. Was cutting with dad yesterday testing her out, no complaints other than every time the chain brake was engaged it quickly died. Can anyone assist me on what might cause this?
Thanks

 

[AKDoug]

Does the chain run at idle? If so you are looking at clutch issues.

 

[NYTREECLIMBER]

Does the chain run at idle? If so you are looking at clutch issues.

I had that problem on my 201t and one of the three springs in the clutch was busted causing it to stay engaged at idle


Sent from my 3120XP

 

[kyle.kipple]

chain does move at idle but i was thinking that was just too high of an idle adjustment

 

[skooter]

on some of the older stihls when the chainbreak engages it will shut engine off. does yours say on the tag electronic quickstop. it may be that there is nothing wrong with your saw but others who have posted have said things to check I would check them.

 

[kyle.kipple]

yes says EQ on the cover. Ill be going to the shed shortly i will inspect the springs
Appreciate the info fellas

 

[Saw Dr.]

on some of the older stihls when the chainbreak engages it will shut engine off. does yours say on the tag electronic quickstop. it may be that there is nothing wrong with your saw but others who have posted have said things to check I would check them.

Really? Can you give me more info on this? I have never seen a Stihl with that "feature"

 

[kyle.kipple]

after inspectings the springs and shoes, everything seems to be intact. But something isnt right , the spur hardly spins freely at all while trying to hand turn it. lots of friction?

 

[AKDoug]

Really? Can you give me more info on this? I have never seen a Stihl with that "feature"

Me either Doc. The models that said electronic quick stop (like my 024) mean that it has electronic ignition and quickstop chain break. Both of which were new items at the time and it was Stihl's way of denoting this.

How does the bearing look for the clutch drum? Even springs that look good can be bad. I'd replace them and the bearing.

 

[chainsawman2011]

heres a few things to try take off sprocket dig all the dirt and gunk off the inside of drum, take of clutch and make sure the oil pump driver that hooks up to the back of the sprocket is not bent out, also check your brake band and make sure there is no bad bends or burs on it. clean everything and reassemble and see what happens. when through all this just recently on and 029 stihl

 

[kyle.kipple]

drum is clean, I took the drum off my 029 parts saw because the 034 had a 325 rim drive and i wanted it to be 3/8s and that was the only 3/8 i had, im awaiting a new t driver because i just broke my last one today on a 310 jug bolts. when i get that ill take the cover off and do further cleaning and inspection as you said chainsawman. Appreciate it.

 

[tallfarmboy]

As easy as it is to do, I would inspect the flywheel side seal.. I bet you have a vacuum leak that is exasperated when the brake is applied. Heck the bearing may be shot as well. Good luck!

 

[kyle.kipple]

As easy as it is to do, I would inspect the flywheel side seal.. I bet you have a vacuum leak that is exasperated when the brake is applied. Heck the bearing may be shot as well. Good luck!

I mentioned that to my father yesterday as a possible cause and my father pretty much told me i was crazy lol. Since the drum is very sticky and rough feeling I do have a strong feeling that something isnt right in there. I will check the seal aswell

 

[z71mike]

So the clutch bearing is good, or no? Really sounds to me like that's the first place I would look. Start simple and replace the bearing. Go from there.

 

[Adam Smith]

The crank bearings on the 034 supers are a weak spot for this particular saw. When Stihl came out with the 036 Pro they installed bigger crank bearings other than that the two saws are the same. Not saying this is your problem but more than likely it is. I have messed with a lot of these saws and really like them a lot but this is a weak link to them.

 

[Cantdog]

The crank bearings on the 034 supers are a weak spot for this particular saw. When Stihl came out with the 036 Pro they installed bigger crank bearings other than that the two saws are the same. Not saying this is your problem but more than likely it is. I have messed with a lot of these saws and really like them a lot but this is a weak link to them.

Good info right there........next question...does the 034 Super have the same wimpy little flywheel side seal as the 036?

 

[sefh3]

Yes they do. I'm betting it's the flywheel side crank bearing. Just like the 036 and the 026 they are known to fail and cause air leaks. I would pressure test it and make sure you find the leak first before throwing a new piston in it.

 

[Cantdog]

Yes they do. I'm betting it's the flywheel side crank bearing. Just like the 036 and the 026 they are known to fail and cause air leaks. I would pressure test it and make sure you find the leak first before throwing a new piston in it.

Thought so.......not a Stihl guy here but had to put a new OEM top end on an 036 Pro for a guy.....toasted the piston and scored the cyl beyond clean up.....put the new top end on..press/vac tested....at first it held press fine but would not even lift the needle on vac....spun the crank then it wouldn't hold either.....was the flywheel side seal.....saw was a very low hr..owned by a homeowner..not hard use...looked near new. Can't figure why they insist on using such a tiny seal on that side....saving money and weight I guess......LOL!!!

I would definitely press/vac test that saw before running......just my $.02....

 

[Mad Professor]

You might want to get the upgrade kit for the clutch that uses a bigger bearing if you have to replace any parts.

I have had the smaller bearing fail on one of my 036s.

When I rebuilt the other 036 I added the clutch kit as part of the rebuild along with crank seals.

 

[sefh3]

Thought so.......not a Stihl guy here but had to put a new OEM top end on an 036 Pro for a guy.....toasted the piston and scored the cyl beyond clean up.....put the new top end on..press/vac tested....at first it held press fine but would not even lift the needle on vac....spun the crank then it wouldn't hold either.....was the flywheel side seal.....saw was a very low hr..owned by a homeowner..not hard use...looked near new. Can't figure why they insist on using such a tiny seal on that side....saving money and weight I guess......LOL!!!

I would definitely press/vac test that saw before running......just my $.02....

And make sure you rotate the crank while testing for vac. They are a pain to find a leak when they start leaking. I don't know why they used that small of a seal but they did on many different models.