044 carb limter settings & carb flange needed

[royta]

Does anybody know how many turns out on the H & L screws it is before the limiter caps are placed over them? I want the factory settings. No, I haven't boogered up my settings, I'm just curious.


Also, would anybody happen to have an extra flange for the air filter base lying around? Mine is cracked all the way through, right up by the collar screw. See Ref. ID 17 & 18 on page 24 of the 044 IPL.

Thanks.

 

[chainsawjunky]

I might if you could show me a picture of what it is. I have an extra carb from an 044. Evan

 

[Lakeside53]

1 turn out... and slice the limiter cap tabs off..

 

[Jacob J.]

If you need the metal flange, I might have one. I go one full turn on the adjustment and set the limiters so I have about a half a turn adjustment beyond that if I need it.

 

[royta]

OK, three things.

1. The limiter caps and removal tool I ordered are coming in today. Why is it we are even trimming the tabs on the caps? Why don't we just order the standard needles and springs. See pgs 17 & 18 of the 044 IPL. I'm wondering which of the following Ref. ID's will work on a Walbro HD-17A. Low needle 31 or 53? High needle 30 or 32? Springs 29 or 54? Still, I don't think the limiter tabs are the worst idea, as long as you give yourself a little extra room to richen up. The tabs are a good thing to "bottom" the screw to. If you bottom the screw to the tab, then it is impossible to damage the seat the needle would be bottoming against (if there were no tabs to limit the screw's travel). I know that you only lightly bottom the needle, but I'm the type of person who will lightly bottom the needle at the start of every day, in order to verify my settings haven't changed at all. :jester: The repeated bottoming could eventually wallow out the seat.
   
   
2. Andy (or others if you have ideas), I will be opening up the stock 3/8" port on the muffler to 1/2" or 9/16". From the standard 1 turn out, what fraction of a turn out on the H needle do you think I'll need to go? Obviously I'll verify with a tach, but the tach doesn't come in until the 24th. With the muffler stock, I'll probably set it at 1 turn to be safe. So, what is the equivalent setting with the muffler opened to 1/2" or 9/16"?
   
   
3. Andy (or others if you have ideas), in your experience, how much would I need to lean out the H needle on a saw tuned at 1000 feet ASL in order to get the same running saw at 7000 feet ASL?

Thanks everybody.

 

[royta]

1 turn out... and slice the limiter cap tabs off..

Stihl sets the screws to 1 turn out, and then places the limiters on? So, 1 turn out is all Stihl allows the non-techy saw user to go? I've heard you mention on several occasions to set the H needle at 1 turn out "to be safe" if you don't have a tach. You've mentioned you can go leaner if you have a tach to verify you are not over-revving the engine. Yes, I realize the tach doesn't tell you if the saw's air/fuel mixture is perfect, but it does at least let you know if you're over-revving the engine. It sounds like the limiter caps set at 1 turn out don't negatively affect stock saws. It sounds like they wouldn't be too lean at that setting, unless one were to open the muffler or do some machining/dremel work on the intake/exhaust ports on the cylinder. Thanks Andy.

 

[Jacob J.]

Stihl sets the screws to 1 turn out, and then places the limiters on? So, 1 turn out is all Stihl allows the non-techy saw user to go?

That depends on the model of saw and the model of carburetor it has, but on many models the limiter is set to the point where you have around 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns of adjustment initially.

Why don't we just order the standard needles and springs.

Because on some carburetors the newer needles made for the limiting caps have a different shaft diameter or thread pitch than the early non-limited adustment screws. They can also have a different shaft length in some cases.

The repeated bottoming could eventually wallow out the seat.

A person would have to be especially heavy-handed/ Ham-fisted for this to occur, although it does happen a lot.

Andy (or others if you have ideas), I will be opening up the stock 3/8" port on the muffler to 1/2" or 9/16". From the standard 1 turn out, what fraction of a turn out on the H needle do you think I'll need to go?

I'd start with 1 1/4 turns out and go from there. The saw may blubber at that setting, which would be a good thing.

 

[Lakeside53]

I have nothing to add to what Jacob said

Oh, one thing.. Damaged seats are rare and do little other than affect the calibration of the screws (turns out).

And... the "one turn out" is just a "guaranteed to start and be safe" setting. It's generally slightly rich on a saw/carb in good condition. You make your adjustments, THEN insert the caps. Yes, turn the H screw out another 1/4 turn from optimal before inserting the cap if you leave the tabs in place, then retune. Just don't tell the EPA.

 

[RiverRat2]

1 turn out... and slice the limiter cap tabs off..

Lake you remove the limiter cap then rebase line the carb H setting to one full turn out,,, then slice the tab off and then re-install the limiter???? :monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

Once you slice of the tab you can do what you like with the screws, but yes, what you describe is what I generally do... not for customer saws though

 

[RiverRat2]

So in essence putting the limiters back on even with the tab removed kinda acts like a damper to the shorter needles that dont have springs and long shanks to grab the rubber insert in the filter base on old style carbs????? which helps maintain your settings correct????

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes... they dampen the screws and stop them rotating. There are little barbs underneath the -2700 caps. Not sure what you mean about the about the rubber part though..

 

[RiverRat2]

Yes... they dampen the screws and stop them rotating. There are little barbs underneath the -2700 caps. Not sure what you mean about the about the rubber part though..

Im not sure either,,,, 3rd Heine!!!! but cool it does actually dampen the setting that will work,,, I orderd a tool last week. and just finished my first woods port on one of the 066's last night and its a newer model with limiter style carb so this thread is spot on for me to get her dialed in... gonna go mess with Just Mow @ the Triangle Open house tomorrow LOL :greenchainsaw:

 

[royta]

The Stihl limiter cap removal tool works like a champ. My H needle was set to exactly 1 turn out. The L needle was set to just a scoche over 1 1/4 turns. This means bottoming out the L against the tab and richening it 1/4 turn, as per the manual or the diagram on side of saw, puts it at about 3/4 turn out. Wow, I just realized that after tuning the L this afternoon, that I ended up at the same setting. It's comforting to know, that despite how my '98 044 is slightly enviro'd out, the caps were actually installed to a point where the saw ran awesome. Of course, you wouldn't be able to hog out the muffler without doing some H cap changes, but still. Either that, or the previous owner knew what was up and redialed the caps. The previous owner did certainly take care of saw. The saw definitely looks like it's been used, but it still has 165 to 170 psi compression and is on it's original piston, rings, and cylinder. He bought the saw new in 2001.

I found out something about slicing off the tabs that I'm not sure I like. The caps will raise out of the carb when backing out the needle. I end up having to push the cap back in. It's not much, barely the thickness of the tab really, but it does raise slightly. I may pull those caps and put in some new caps with the tabs on them. Of course, I'll wait until I enlarge the port on the muffler, retune the carb, and add 1/4 turn to the needles.