046 Rebuild Complete (Pic Heavy)

[JonCraig]

Well, I'd like to start by thanking you all for putting up with a dozen different threads about different challenges I've had with this saw. This is the most in-depth rebuild I've ever done, and I'd still be scratching my head if it weren't for everyone on AS. Especially willing to put up with my newbie questions were (in no particular order) @blsnelling , @drf255 , @Jacob J. , @BuckthornBonnie , @BrokenSVT , @mdavlee , @Trx250r180 , @HarleyT , @Ozhoo , @cus_deluxe , @rd35 , @pioneerguy600 , @LoveStihlQuality

This is really all Brad's fault:

Just rebuild the 046.

So it all started with a $20 pile of crap in a box:



I planned to just keep it around as a parts saw for my MS460. But curiosity got the better of me, and I asked about differences between the 046 and 460. That's how I came to learn about the 1st year "D Chamber" cylinder. So I popped it off, and lookie there... it looks like a D!



But Brad and Jacob were quick to tell me that not all D chambers were created equal... it's the port timing that matters. So off I go to learn how to use a degree wheel.



Once I got my timing numbers, I asked Brad:

That gives you 17° of blowdown. I've seen then with as little as 15°-16°. That'll be a good runner.

Also, turns out I have the more aggressively-timed 1309 coil. That's a plus.



Next was squish measurement.



With no gasket at all, I measured .020 to .022 squish. So with some motoseal, I'm a bit higher, but I don't have a lathe, so this is what I'll have to live with.

While I was at it, I figured I'd try upgrading the oiler to the high-output version. Nice, easy upgrade.

Slapped everything back together, and pressure/vac tested. To my dismay, there's was a leak! Guess that means I'll have to split the cases & replace the case gasket. And wow are case splitter tools expensive. I've convinced myself now to buy one anyway, but at the time I tried begging a favor from my local Stihl dealer. Their tech actually let me borrow his case splitter & didn't charge me. Wow! That's why it pays to frequent a good dealer whenever possible!



The bearings felt fine to my untrained hands, but I figured if I was going to split the cases, I wasn't going to take a chance. Might as well replace the bearings while I'm in there. And boy am I glad I did. This thing was rusting on the inside!



Same dealer got me new parts (OEM, of course!)



More to come in part 2...

 

[JonCraig]

Had another issue with the saw... the chain brake pin was broken.



Took some head scratching, but eventually pushed it out with a nail set and my bench vise. Was afraid I'd have to drill it out, but thankfully didn't have to.



New pin also went in with the vise.




I didn't get any pics of putting in the new bearings... I was trying to work fast via the "cases in oven, bearings in freezer" method. My wife was actually home at the time, and didn't complain too much! I did catch a pic of the case halves back in the oven preparing for the crank install.



Went back together easy enough with the case screws.



Now I could assemble the chain brake. I had never done anything with a chain brake prior to this one. Having a 460 to look at was much more helpful that just a copy of the IPL.



Part 3 of 3 coming soon:

 

[JonCraig]

Purchased a new tank from a fellow member on this site. (The original one was good and cracked). New A/V from @Definitive Dave and some OEM 460 plastics (with an 046 badge), and I think it looks pretty good!

Piston and cylinder still looked great, but I put in some Meteor rings for good measure. Of course, the carb was also rebuilt with OEM Walbro carb kit. The saw had the OEM dual port muffler (with the big hole; not the small one).

I haven't had the opportunity to put it in wood yet, but just piss-revving it in the garage it is *very* responsive. Definitely sounds different than my 460 and feels like it torques up the tip of the bar harder than the 460 does (and the 460 has a new Meteor piston w/ Caber rings, too). I'm really looking forward to burying that bar!

Again, thanks to all the guys on AS who have helped me along the way. Hope you enjoyed all the pics.

--JC

 

[BrokenSVT]

That's looking great! Mine is currently being re- rebuilt, due to well, a complete cluster**** from the person who claimed to have rebuilt it. I'm in good hands now though, and can't wait to get it finished and show it off.

Good work, dude!

 

[SEAM]

Definitely looks better than mine

 

[Cease232]

Nice work Jon. That things a beauty. Love me some 046's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[blsnelling]

Nicely done. Great thread.

 

[svk]

Nice work!

 

[drf255]

Very nice job. Love it.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Great job! Those rubber kits are the best. I don't use the fuel line but the AV and grommets all are suitable.

What spikes are ya using?

 

[JonCraig]

Great job! Those rubber kits are the best. I don't use the fuel line but the AV and grommets all are suitable.

What spikes are ya using?

Yep. Subbed OEM fuel and impulse.

To be honest, the spikes were just the first ones that caught my eye on eBay. Others were either too expensive or way too big or strange-colored.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

K. I sure hope I don't get flamed on here like another site but here ya go:

Those are probably meant for the 660. They're usually decent spikes that help keep the bar up and are useful for certain cutting situations. However, they are offset from each other on the 046/460. This doesn't permit the roller chain catcher. A solution is to grind out the clutch cover spike a bit. Now, this doesn't change the offset, but it makes a roller catcher possible.

 

[JonCraig]

Looks like you're 100% correct! The listing said 460, so maybe I'll try contacting seller for an exchange.

 

[BrokenSVT]

K. I sure hope I don't get flamed on here like another site but here ya go:

Those are probably meant for the 660. They're usually decent spikes that help keep the bar up and are useful for certain cutting situations. However, they are offset from each other on the 046/460. This doesn't permit the roller chain catcher. A solution is to grind out the clutch cover spike a bit. Now, this doesn't change the offset, but it makes a roller catcher possible.

No flame here. I took my 660 ones off the 046 for those reasons. Found a nice black set with cutouts on the 'Bay.

 

[Lowhog]

Nice job!

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

No flame here. I took my 660 ones off the 046 for those reasons. Found a nice black set with cutouts on the 'Bay.

Yep. Good stuff.

My entire point on the other site in your thread was that they can be made to "work" and use a roller catch. Those guys all misconstrued what I was saying. They're dirt cheap and most of us have them laying around. Why not use 'em for a work saw? The 1/4" offset doesn't really matter bucking cottonwood or willow. Plus the roller catcher is better for noodling.

 

[blsnelling]

And their point was, why not use the right part for just a few bucks more. I agree.

 

[JonCraig]

Is there an easy way to tell visually which parts will work with the roller catcher? Or do I need to pony up for OEM?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

I agree as well. The problem is an oem kit is $57ish. Depending on what the saw is for, I don't mind the $8 spikes once in a while.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

I agree as well. The problem is an oem kit is $57ish. Depending on what the saw is for, I don't mind the $8 spikes once in a while.

For some guys that is a significant price difference.

Eta-- for the fucjing record I'm not advocating purchasing these spikes w 460s in mind. Ebay sellers are selling them as "fits 460" because they do mount up, but are not a proper offset. I merely mentioned a possible mod to get existing cheapo spikes to use a catcher.