056 bad clutch?

[texican65]

Hi. Just recently my 1980 056 mag II has started acting up. i just use it for cutting big firewood. Anyways, the chain won't stop spinning, even when idling. I adjusted the idle screw on the carb to get it to slow down, hopefully thinking that would remedy this problem...but the saw just dies before it can get the chain to stop rotating. And when the chain is rotating idling, when I apply the brake, the saw dies. Is something booger-ed up withe the clutch?

Thanks,

Dow

 

[alexcagle]

You've likely got either a broken clutch spring or a worn out sprocket bearing.
Pull the sprocket and clutch off. The clutch thread is left hand thread.

 

[texican65]

Hey thanks Alex...I'll give 'er a shot. Do I need a special clutch removal tool?

Dow

 

[alexcagle]

Hey thanks Alex...I'll give 'er a shot. Do I need a special clutch removal tool?

Dow

These are tools you need.

Or you can make a 1/2" drive socket work by cutting about a 1-1/8" socket with a plasma cutter or a grinder to end up with a three prong socket that will fit into the clutch spider, Then feed a sufficient amount of starter rope into the empty spark plug hole to block the piston and create enough resistance to remove the left hand threaded clutch. This means you turn the clutch counterclockwise to loosen It.
Care must be taken when feeding rope inside the spark plug hole Into the combustion chamber and not feed it into a port or out the exhaust port. Shine a flashlight in the sparkpug hole to see the top of the the exhaust port. Rotate the crank counter clockwise on the clutch side until the piston gets just above the port. This is the highest port, so you can be sure you aren't going to break a piston edge or ring by Having the piston try to slice It off. Once you reach a point where you can't feed any more rope in, then use the socket you made and break the clutch loose counterclockwise.
When you put the clutch back on, one thing to remember is to pull some starter rope out first because as you tighten the clutch it will engage the starter pawls, which can possibly break the rope unless you feed the pulled out starter rope in until it meets the resistance of the piston top against the rope fed in through the spark plug hole. Or just take the starter off prior to this proceedure.

 

[scallywag]

The 056 Magnum should have a clutch carrier with a fixed nut, if so just spin it off with a rattle gun.

 

[alexcagle]

Or use an impact............
Which Stihl explicitly teaches their Tech's NOT to use, under any circumstances..... Ever. ;-)~
Unless you are from Oz where the nuts go the opposite direction because everything is really upside down..... lol

 

[scallywag]

use an impact............
Which Stihl explicitly teaches their Tech's NOT to use, under any circumstances. Ever.
Unless you are from Oz where the nuts go the opposite direction because everything is really upside down..... lol

Ok I'll take it back!... If the OP hasn't used an impact gun to remove a clutch before maybe now's not the time to start.

Though I've removed countless clutches this way and never broke anything, then again I've run my saws on 25:1 for over thirty years and never scratch a piston either, I must be doing something wrong!

If the OP's 056 Magnum has an original type clutch (fixed nut) all he needs is a piston stop and his plug/bar spanner.

 

[scallywag]

If the OP's saw has the fixed nut clutch a broken spring should be visible without removing the clutch, if there's no broken springs it may need the clutch bearing (9521 933 3760) serviced or replaced, these needle cage bearings are NLA here in Oz.

I would also suggest making sure the carb mount nuts are tight as some 1115 series saws had a habit of vibrating the nuts loose. Also take a look at the intake boot making sure the fixing clamp is tight on the cylinder and there's no damage/ holes in the boot.

 

[alexcagle]

Nah worries Mate.
I think it's more about not twisting the counterweights on the crank, and flywheel Integrity safety and key shearing than anything.
-That; - and new tech guidelines stemming from a lawsuit over someone getting injured by a gernaded flywheel that was overtightened by an impact and a crank taper not being oil-free. It cracked the flywheel which weakened it, and it went bye bye.
I saw a guy bash a hole in the piston once with an impact and a steel piston stop. He hadn't rolled the crank to put the piston up against the stop, so it had some speed going when it hit.
If this type of piston stop is in an angled spark plug hole you run a risk of breaking the piston from the edge of the nose of the stop too. I've done it, but luckily on removal of a scored piston. That dude was tighter that ****'s hatband.