066 cylinder scored, piston toast

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I had one like that only my piston didn't look as bad. Used acid on cylinder then baking soda water then 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper till the rest was smooth.
 
I have a 54mm ball hone if your close to South Bend stop on by and we'll clean that up for you and polish the plating. Just send a message, no charge to do it.
 
Howdy,
I know if Red was helpin' ya, it would be a wrap duct tape around the piston, and then once around the bore and you're good to go.
Regards
Gregg
 
Yes it is a mahle cylinder. Thats why I wanted to try and save it.

Used some acid on it today. Got most of it off and is looking better. Will have to acid it a couple more times tomorrow. Then a few more scratches to sand out.

Ordered a new piston from baileys.

What is the ring gap set at on these? Squish should be around .020 to .025?
 
How do you usually break in the rings once it is reassembled? I have read of different ways. Just don't want to screw up all the work I'm about to put in it.
 
Yes i understood that the flex hone should be used only as a last step to help the rings seat.

How do you guys run the saw for the 1st time after the re build to break it in? Just use it? I have heard u should not run the saw WOT with no load on it. Is that correct? Thanks.
 
Just run the saw the way you normally would except don`t rev the **** out of it out of the cut for the first tank of fuel or so. After that keep on operating as normal. After rebuilding many hundreds of saws and discussing this scenario with dozens of other saw mechanics we all seem to agree that operating the saw normally from the outset will allow for the best breakin. Some think the carb should be set a tad rich to provide extra lube and cooling but I personally just set it the way it should be operated and let it go to work.
Tune the carb with cuts in a big enough piece of wood to load the engine, fourstroking while out of the cut and cleaning out and pulling hard as soon as the chain bites good into the wood, you will never have a lean running saw doing it this way. Tachometers are good for stock only saws and getting them to a fairly safe performance level if there are no other issues affecting the engine like an air leak.
 
after the clean up

Well here it is after cleaning and sanding on it. Looks like it may have a little pitting in it.

View attachment 291086
Before

View attachment 291087
After

After looking at the picture a little more. Looks like it still has a little transfer from the piston on it yet. I didn't get hardly and reaction with the acid this last cleaning. May try some more just to be sure it is all out.
 
Light the wood stove or get the oven hot and bake that cylinder a little bit to get heat into it, the acid works much faster on a warm cylinder.
 
I'll try that today and see what happens. Definitely want to get it all out before I put a new piston in it. Thanks for the advise.
 
Back
Top