066 rebuild (locked up)

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mkinslow

mkinslow

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Sep 7, 2015
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582
Location
Santa fe Tennessee
Good morning guys. I have an 066 in my shop for a customer that is locked up tight. Said he started it made half a cut throu and she shut down. Went to restart but would not turn over at all. IV not torn down completely yet but have taken muffler off and it looks fine on that side. Don't know what intake side looks like. Removed plug and found metal that stuck to a magnet. He wants to rebuild so my question is what p/c would y'all recommend. Aftermarket of course. Stihl is ridiculous on they're prices. But now he wants one with the decomp button if at all possible. Thanks for the help guys.
 
BuckthornBonnie

BuckthornBonnie

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Aug 26, 2013
Messages
732
Location
Penn Yan, NY
Metal means problems... Especially ferrous (iron)... Bottom end ok? Check for bearing play first. Flywheel impeded by anything? Id look through intake, then pull jug as there's a chance that a ring hung or bearings grenaded.
If cylinder cant be saved (search on here), then look for OEM cylinder first.
 
spindrift7mm

spindrift7mm

Changing the World One Saw at a time !
Joined
Jul 22, 2011
Messages
481
Location
Loomis, California
Sounds like a bearing issue. I'd pull the cylinder first and remove all debris as any metal in the cylinder can damage the plating in just a few strokes. The cyl can be reinstalled if needed to pull clutch or flywheel ( I'd remove rings first ). I'd split it and do seals/brgs. As far as the cyl goes OEM is best. Most aftermarket cyl require machine work to correct excessive squish and port timing issues. On work saws I prefer the best parts available. Ken
 
mkinslow

mkinslow

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Joined
Sep 7, 2015
Messages
582
Location
Santa fe Tennessee
IMG_0690.JPG IMG_0691.JPG IMG_0693.JPG IMG_0696.JPG Alright boys made a little progress this afternoon. Can't pull cylinder because I've misplaced my T26 driver somehow. But I did get some pics of p/c and pieces I found with magnet on top of piston. I was able to turn crank a little with a 1/4 drive rachet and socket. I'm thinking that something in the bottom end has give up the ghost
 
earlthegoat2

earlthegoat2

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Aug 20, 2016
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693
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SE GA
Hmmmmm, that rust on the rings looks pretty normal to me.:dumb:

Has this saw set for a while? All that oxidation on the piston leads me to believe there was very little run time between being stored for a long time and present.
 
mkinslow

mkinslow

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Sep 7, 2015
Messages
582
Location
Santa fe Tennessee
Moisture from cleaning cause rust on rings. This saw was very nasty when I got it so I did a lot of cleaning before I started disassembly. Saw was running last weekend when it locked up on owner.
 
An-En

An-En

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Oct 29, 2016
Messages
42
Location
Up there
Just wander how did you clean it? Those few spots of red rust sure look like something fresh, but that oxidation on the piston look old. It takes a while for aluminum to get oxidized like that. I'd say that thing was sitting quite a bit and didn't run for long after that.
 
mkinslow

mkinslow

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Joined
Sep 7, 2015
Messages
582
Location
Santa fe Tennessee
Update (kinda). I've finally gotten back to saw Very busy at my main job. I have saw mostly broken down But can't get dang clutch to loosen before I remove cylinder. But I did take a peak through intake and see that parts of the bearing cage look as though they're sticking up around connecting rod ( yeah I know threads are worthless without pics but can't get one of this yet). Does this mean a possible new crank. What does yalls experience tell you. I've never seen it before.
 

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