12 volt dremel type sharpeners worth it or waste ? Best Brand ?

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preventec47

ArboristSite Operative
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Location
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ALl six of my blades are now dull and at 6 bucks ea to sharpen at the
local chainsaw dealer I am the point of being able to cost justify a 35 dollar
dremel type 12 volt sharpener.

Northern tool is where I usually shop unless I buy on-line and they
have a Chinese model and one from Granberg which is probably also
chinese.

Funny, they only have replaceable stones for the Granberg so that might
be a clue. Any other best deals on the internet ? I've been hand filing
my chain with alignment by eyeball and not doing too bad but six chains
would just wear me out.

Any other suggestions or recomendations ?

I searched back through some old messages and found these sources


Welcome To Madsen's Online

Maxx Chain Grinders | Tecomec | Direct Buy | Pulp Hook | Sharpening Chainsaws at Snssawshop.com

Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's
 
Ive tried the dremel sharpening method and while it seems to work good it takes much longer than an old fashioned hand file.I can sharpen a chain in less then 5 with a file and get a sharper longer lasting edge.I usually hit it quick with every tank up to keep it sharp.Also when the bits for the dremel tool start to wear it affects how well it gets an edge which doesn't take long.
 
I've had quite a few chain sharpening "devices" over the years, I have gone back to a simple file with a wooden handle. By the time you set up a sharpener for each chain, I'll be almost done with the file.
 
I'm not a personal fan of the Dremel type sharpeners, but obviously, a lot of people use them. Everyone needs to find a system that works for them, and if you are interested in this type of sharpener, you should go ahead and try it for $30 - $40 bucks. If you don't like it, put it on Craig's List and get some of that back.

But I would encourage you to go with the better quality tool, so that it works, so that it lasts longer, and so that you won't get frustrated. Buy good quality stones too, as they do the work, in order to make your chains work. The Granberg and STIHL versions are probably better quality that the house brand grinder, even if not the cheapest. Should be able to get parts later if you need them.

Are you sure that you want the 12V model? It is good if you want to work next to the truck in the field, but a 120v Dremel tool will work back home in the garage or basement, and let you use it for dozens of other tasks as well. More bang for the buck.

All depends on how you plan to use them.

Philbert
 
Okay here is my take on the 12 volt sharpener. I agree that the file and wooden handle work the best. HOWEVER, I have a caveat to that. I don't think the 12volt idea or power sharper is a bad idea for the chains that have been run hard into the ground. I have a 7/32'' carbide grinder that goes onto my right angle air tool. Works great for cleaning up the mashed up and rocked chains. After I hit them with the carbide deburr tool I'll then go over each tooth with a clean file and get them back to 100% I also have the grinding stone from Dremel...and it works so so.

Happy Sharpening
-K5
 
I started out with a dremel and went to a handfile, I found that when the bit duled out it also shrank a little, like stated earlier, plus it went too fast causing me to make uneven cuts, I like the file much better, does not take much longer and you get a much more consistent sharpening.
 
I use the dremel after evry tankful, in less time than it takes to smoke a cig an open a beer. I find it works and eliminates the need to have the spare chains mostly. After about five to ten quick sharpens, I change it out and send that one to the shop to be dressed with a real tool, but have no complaints between.

See signature
 
My friend gave me a jig to go in my bench vice that really helps with the filing process, you just put the chain in the jig and clamp the vice on it. I'll take a photo of the jig today and post it later this evening.
 
I have both the Dremel and Stihl, but I don't use them, still like hand filing. I feel I can control it much better, one slip with the 12v grinder and you can wreck a tooth real quick. And I didn't like the stones wearing down fast. I am sure some folks do real well with them tho. I have on occaision used the Stihl on rakers tho.
 
I've tried different types of power sharpening devises with varying success, but filing seems to be the fastest method unless the chain has been damaged by rock or metal. The file also seems to put a consistently sharper, longer lasting edge on the cutters. Another problem with power sharpeners is heat... just too darn easy to get the cutter hot enough to turn the steel cuttin' edge into putty and also flake the chrome off. Just because the cutter didn't turn blue doesn't mean it didn't get too hot... turning blue just means it got way, way, way too hot.

Six chains may look overwhelming, but you don't have to do them all in one session. When I get that many chains in need of the file I'll maybe do one in the morning before I head into work, maybe one or two more when I get home while the fire pit is burning down to coals for cooking. During the "cuttin' season" (which lately seems to never end) I try to sharpen at least one chain every day, and because I don't cut every night (hafta' do some splittin', or other chores sometime) I always have sharp chains. The thing is, with practice, sharping a 16 to 20 inch loop only takes 5-10 minutes; filing depth gauges adds a bit more time but only needs to be done every third to fifth sharping, depending. I don't have any problem finding 5-10 minutes a day... just walk out to the shop during that first cup of coffee... or after I start the evening cookin' fire I walk into the shop to grab a beer anyway. And then there's those rainy Sunday mornings when I'm just piddling around in the shop lookin' for somethin' to do anyway.

I've tried near all the filing guides and most have just been tossed into a junk drawer somewhere. But lately I've started using the Husqvarna roller guide (in the shop, not in the wood lot)... after opening the slots a tiny bit and removing the ridiculous depth gauge (it wouldn't line up with the rakers on my Stihl chains anyway) it's fast to move from cutter to cutter, and the rubber rollers really make for smooth filing. Now that I've gotten on to it I believe sharpening goes a bit quicker because I don't hafta' pay attention to how deep the file sits on the chain; I don't hafta' worry about the file cuttin' into the links, I just need to watch my top-plate angle. And, those rubber rollers tend to protect the files from bangin' on the links so they seem to remain sharp longer.

There just ain't nothin' like a finely sharpened chain on a well tuned saw... and I can only get that fine edge with a good hand file...
 
My take on this, I sharpen hundreds of chains a year, part of my business. I have one of the 12v Dremel style grinders, don't remember the brand name, doesn't matter really as they all work the same. I only use it in a pinch out in the field if I rock or find metal and trash the cutters. It is difficult to get a precise grind, the stones wear too quickly and unless it has variable speed it runs too fast and burns the cutters. Yes, I will and do use a file in the field, the simple set up with the guide plate, really does not take much to touch up a chain if undamaged, toss up time wise vs changing the chain. Exception would be the really long bars say 30+ inches. The large clamp on manual file guide works very well just takes a bit to learn its use. Personally I prefer to use my bench grinders. I might just get one of the 12v bench style clamp on bar grinders, I know of one fellow who is doing ok with it. Course with any of the sharpening tools your technique is the key to your mileage. ( yes I carry spare chains also when in the field, but somehow Murphy sneaks in once in awhile.) Chris
 
I started with Dremel grinding and noticed a big improvement when I went to filing. I've got a benchtop grinder and hardly use it. I guess it depends on what results you get with filing and how much you like or hate it, but I think I'd have to buy a pretty nice grinder to really get better results than I get with a file. I agree, the Husqvarna roller guide is really nice.
 
I used to use the dremel, but there are some problems with it (as previously noted). But I bought the Pferd all-in-one and like that much more. :msp_wub:
 
K5krawler said:
Okay here is my take on the 12 volt sharpener. I agree that the file and wooden handle work the best. HOWEVER, I have a caveat to that. I don't think the 12volt idea or power sharper is a bad idea for the chains that have been run hard into the ground. I have a 7/32'' carbide grinder that goes onto my right angle air tool. Works great for cleaning up the mashed up and rocked chains. After I hit them with the carbide deburr tool I'll then go over each tooth with a clean file and get them back to 100% I also have the grinding stone from Dremel...and it works so so.

Happy Sharpening
-K5
Click to expand...

K5, I am on the same page as you. I had a Dremel for years before I bought the chainsaw sharpening attachment. I don't remember the circumstances but I had a chain that was very dull, probably from hitting a hard object by mistake or getting it in the dirt. Anyway, I only use the Dremel for "emergency" situations and use the hand file in general. I have been known to use the Dremel to refresh a chain and follow the Dremel with a file. Sharpening by hand is better. I saved a 28" skip-tooth chain on a saw I bought from a shop that said it was not worth repairing. The cutting surfaces were as sharp as marbles when I got it. After the Dremel and files I cut up 1 1/2 cords of dry Eucalypus with that saw. At the same time I went through 2 other saws that I used to cut up a stump. The center was full of dirt. The chains were trashed but were brought back to 100% with the Dremel followed by the file.

I was dissapointed with the Dremel stones from day 1. They clog with dirt, oil and ground metal fast. I bought these bits and am very impressed: OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners I bought a 3-pack of 7/32" stones at a local Orchard Supply Hardware for less than $10.
 
I ave tryed them all, may help a little but those stones add up quick and the file is better and or bench grinder.
 
I've got a Dremel brand 110v tool but I don't use it for sharpening. I've used it quite a few times and it seems to be a quality tool. If I did want one to sharpen in the field I would check into buying the Dremel brand 110v and an inverter. I know that would be an added expense but you would have a tool that would be handy for home use too without using a battery.
 
The chain sharpening jig I mentioned earlier;

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