14,600 on a 460??

[Cliff R]

The best way to set your work saw is to start out noticably "rich" and start making cuts. Lean it up and check the no load in between cuts for that distinct "4 stroking" sound. Continue to make cuts, when the saw cleans up immediately when a load is placed on it, and pulls hard thru the cut, you are nailing down the best mixture setting(s) that the saw likes.

Continue this procedure, when you don't notice any increase in performance in the cut, go back to the last setting, this will be a good place to be, regardless of where the no-load rpm's end up at. It is ALWAYS best to er on the rich side, than lean.

As mentioned previously, more fuel delivers more lubrication, lowers EGT's and no load rpm's when you come out of the cut. For a work saw, this will be best for the saw, and help it to last.

Also make sure, when making carb settings, that the saws air cleaner is clear of any debris, and that you are using fresh fuel mix.

Very small adjustments to the "H" screw may still be required, as there is less good air available on hot/humid summer days, compared to cool/cold "crisp" Winter days. If you notice at any point during the year, the engine revving high and not "four stroking" easily when the load is removed from it, add just tad bit more fuel ("H" screw turned slightly counter-clockwise)......Cliff

 

[mountainlake]

Lots of good posts on here lately , the way a saw should be tuned. Steve

 

[JTinaTree]

Of course

Ha,Ha, Brad probably does'nt own a unported Stihl saw...

 

[smokinj]

Mine runs 14,200 ball park no issues 3 years now

 

[Outlaw5.0]

Port timing is a huge part of the rpms. If the intake duration is really long, the rpms will be higher.

 

[huskystihl]

I was by my saw mechanics the other day and he checked the rpm's on my saw (stock 460) he said the RPM's were to fast at 12400 and turned it back to 11900. I was chocked at him but took it home and cut into some big stuff. I could tell that the RPM's were slower but I found that the saw had more power. Call me stupid but I don't get this ... I understand that the saw is running richer so it is using more fuel (power) but I don't get the trade off power vs. RPM's. I would like someone to explain this to me. I went back to talk to my mechanic to have him tell me that he knew the saw was running to lean when I came in as the muffler was not black and oily. I'm not looking for a hot saw speed but I don't want to be running a saw that could perform safely at a higher speed. I'm using this saw semi-professionally and up to know have relied on the mechanic but have decided after this last go around to try to gain abit more knowledge. I guess I would like to know how to adjust the saw for optimal cutting performance without scoring a piston. Thanks for any help any of you could provide.

Sorry but i'm confused by the black and oily muffler comment being lean?

 

[THALL10326]

.


RPM doesn't matter.


Correct mixture does matter.


.

Bingo, you sir know your saws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[THALL10326]

I was by my saw mechanics the other day and he checked the rpm's on my saw (stock 460) he said the RPM's were to fast at 12400 and turned it back to 11900. I was chocked at him but took it home and cut into some big stuff. I could tell that the RPM's were slower but I found that the saw had more power. Call me stupid but I don't get this ... I understand that the saw is running richer so it is using more fuel (power) but I don't get the trade off power vs. RPM's. I would like someone to explain this to me. I went back to talk to my mechanic to have him tell me that he knew the saw was running to lean when I came in as the muffler was not black and oily. I'm not looking for a hot saw speed but I don't want to be running a saw that could perform safely at a higher speed. I'm using this saw semi-professionally and up to know have relied on the mechanic but have decided after this last go around to try to gain abit more knowledge. I guess I would like to know how to adjust the saw for optimal cutting performance without scoring a piston. Thanks for any help any of you could provide.

Your saw went from rich to richer. I think your saw tech leans way over to the safe side of things. Most any 460 will run 13,500 safely and last. Mine hits right at 14,000. Thats where it cuts the best. Its going on 13 yrs old now..

 

[1savagehunter]

Sorry but i'm confused by the black and oily muffler comment being lean?

I guess I wasn't clear ... he said an oily dirty muffler is a correctly tuned working saw. He said my clear/not black muffler told him i was running to lean

thanks for all your help everyone.

 

[385XP]

You are exactly right. Factory spec is a ball park number. Nothing replaces fine tuning with timed cuts. I opened up the factory dual port cover on my Dad's early 046 and it's now tuned to 14,500.

My 460 with a dp and gutted muffler turns that and could use a little more. I think that is the 460 o46 sweet spot.I cut every day all summer with mine this year and it still runs good .It holds the rpms really well in the cut also.

 

[huskystihl]

I guess I wasn't clear ... he said an oily dirty muffler is a correctly tuned working saw. He said my clear/not black muffler told him i was running to lean

thanks for all your help everyone.

Ok that makes since. The only saw I have that does that is my ms 200t. They all seem to be perfect as i've never had one meltdown using them all summer for 8 plus hours a day. My 441 turning 15k ran for six hours a day with only breaks to fill up while I was bucking ash trees for the mill and never wavered. My conservative dealer said the saw should have seized yet it four stroked out of the cut and pulled like a striped ape in the cut. Guess I was right for once. Not sure about the oily muffler thing on todays newer saws though?