1970 F350 advice

[DieselTech]

Nothing wrong with a '70 model wood hauler. My everyday driver is a '56 1 ton, I'd like to have a 70's era. Depending on body condition, I'd say 1,000.00 is about middle to high end of the value.

Ignore the nay sayers, old trucks are usually worth fixing and using. They're simple, tough, and parts are readily available. I'd love to see some pictures of it.

 

[KMB]

Nothing wrong with a '70 model wood hauler. My everyday driver is a '56 1 ton, I'd like to have a 70's era. Depending on body condition, I'd say 1,000.00 is about middle to high end of the value.

Ignore the nay sayers, old trucks are usually worth fixing and using. They're simple, tough, and parts are readily available. I'd love to see some pictures of it.

Yet another nudge in the right direction.... Yep, I'll definitely use my camera on my next trip. It's not a 'pretty' truck, but I think it'll work for me...I hope.

edit: I've seen the pics of your '56 1 ton in one of the 'Wood Hauler' threads; nice job you have done on it.

Kevin

 

[gtstang462002]

Yes, I'm curious about the engine myself. Hopefully the previous owner will know more.

Good points on the brakes and steering. Those are very important when fully loaded.

As far as it being a true 350, according to the vehicle registration papers I found in the glove box it is. I should have taken the VIN to confirm. Is is a dually, and the emblems on the hood (look to be original) say 350...but I realize that doesn't confirm it being a 1 ton.

Kevin

Dual rear wheels were only available on the 1 ton or heavier trucks. Still the only way that you can get them today. Everything indicates 1 ton I would not doubt that.

The gas tanks in these trucks was originally behind the bench seat. If someone put an external fuel tank on there it was probably because the original had rusted out and they were getting a headache from the fumes. Probably put a larger tank on there as well. The vent for the tank should be the fuel cap if they have the right one on there. They are designed to equalize pressure yet keep moisture and contaminants out of the fuel system. Seeing how it has been sitting for some time You can anticipate doing some maintenance on it i.e. belts, hoses, tune-up and such... I wouldn't give much more than $500 as long as it is running. I had a '77 stepside F100 given to me a few months back because I refused to pay for it(didn't run and was sinking into the ground). But that is going to be a project truck for me. Not a firewood truck. Have a '79 F350 and an '07 expedition with a '18 trailer(depending on the distance) for that.

 

[AOD]

Just buy the thing. I will be an ideal wood hauler and a unique and interesting project. You'll be amazed the kind of loads a truk like that can haul, nothing like todays trucks.

 

[KMB]

Dual rear wheels were only available on the 1 ton or heavier trucks. Still the only way that you can get them today. Everything indicates 1 ton I would not doubt that.

I was doing some reading at a Ford truck forum and found out for that year (and I think until 1973) the F350 DRW was only available in a cab and chassis setup.

The gas tanks in these trucks was originally behind the bench seat. If someone put an external fuel tank on there it was probably because the original had rusted out and they were getting a headache from the fumes. Probably put a larger tank on there as well. The vent for the tank should be the fuel cap if they have the right one on there. They are designed to equalize pressure yet keep moisture and contaminants out of the fuel system.

I just got off the phone with the guy (another friend of mine) who had the truck before the current owner did. It was a former motorhome and about 15 years ago (when my friend got it from this other guy) it had about 50,000 miles on it.

I also asked about the fuel tank. The fuel tank in a motorhome setup was mounted in specific place. When he put the flat deck on, he mounted a new fuel tank in the new location.

Kevin

I do remember seeing the fuel filler location on the cab behind the door, but there was a screw through the filler cap for whatever reason. At the time I didn't know that the fuel tanks were usually in the cab behind the seat. So with the motorhome setup on this truck, there must have been the factory fuel tank in the cab, and another one somewhere on the frame with a different filler location (just thinking out loud). Another thing I do remember is that it has lowback bucket seats. I'll have to check to see if there still is an in-cab fuel tank, or if it is removed. Probably removed, seeing that there is the screw in the filler cab so someone wouldn't try putting fuel there.

If I do buy the truck, maintenance will be first, then I'll price out a bigger fuel tank.

Kevin

 

[hvy 1ton]

The only 4x4 f350s before 79 were conversions, either homebrew or Marmon-Herrington. If you ever get to the point where you want to convert it to 4x4 it won't be to hard. Just run a divorced NP205 and either a hi pinion D60. In all likelihood, you would have to reposition the spring perches on the axle b/c the frame is narrower than later trucks.

 

[crashagn]

Iam personaly a chevy gmc fan and have been doing all of my hauling with a 1/2 ton 4x4 with a hoist in the back and also a 3/4 ton pickup box trailor. The bed sides are getting pushed out and damaged but it gets the job done. I would love to get ahold of a 1 ton dually flatbed just for wood and other haulings.. even if it had a toasted engine i could swap another in no problem. Heck i got 2 extra front drive shafts for the 1 i got now and just got rid of a set of axles. Parts for the old pickups are everywere and shouldnt have a problem finding what you need. I would say if you comfortable about the purcash and will work for ya then go for it. Also its a plus since you know who the previous owners are. Some people i know areound here tried to sell me a car dirt cheap and i wouldnt even think about it.. straight up no.. just becouse i know how they took care of it

 

[ropensaddle]

I was doing some reading at a Ford truck forum and found out for that year (and I think until 1973) the F350 DRW was only available in a cab and chassis setup.





I do remember seeing the fuel filler location on the cab behind the door, but there was a screw through the filler cap for whatever reason. At the time I didn't know that the fuel tanks were usually in the cab behind the seat. So with the motorhome setup on this truck, there must have been the factory fuel tank in the cab, and another one somewhere on the frame with a different filler location (just thinking out loud). Another thing I do remember is that it has lowback bucket seats. I'll have to check to see if there still is an in-cab fuel tank, or if it is removed. Probably removed, seeing that there is the screw in the filler cab so someone wouldn't try putting fuel there.

If I do buy the truck, maintenance will be first, then I'll price out a bigger fuel tank.

Kevin

Ok sorry for chiming in late but here is my two cents. Old fords are tough especially fe blocked fords higher gears will help fuel economy if your foot is light. The fact that you don't mind getting a little dirty tells me you will do the necessary repair ie prolly need master cylinder may need kingpins ect I can help as I have worked on the old fords with much success. The carb leak is likely the accelerator pump seal in the carb cheap fix or you could just opt for a rebuilt carb. Kevin I have a behind the seat fuel tank you can have in my old 75 log truck same body style. I have some other stuff that will help if you decide to by the ole henry make sure the wiring is in good shape if your not electrically inclined!

 

[KMB]

Ok sorry for chiming in late but here is my two cents. Old fords are tough especially fe blocked fords higher gears will help fuel economy if your foot is light. The fact that you don't mind getting a little dirty tells me you will do the necessary repair ie prolly need master cylinder may need kingpins ect I can help as I have worked on the old fords with much success. The carb leak is likely the accelerator pump seal in the carb cheap fix or you could just opt for a rebuilt carb. Kevin I have a behind the seat fuel tank you can have in my old 75 log truck same body style. I have some other stuff that will help if you decide to by the ole henry make sure the wiring is in good shape if your not electrically inclined!

rope, you da man!!! To me, your fuel tank offer is huge!!! That has been one of my biggest concerns in thinking this purchase through. The previous owner (fella I called) had said that the fuel leaking from the carb was something that happened when the truck sat for a few days. Something about the fuel leaking from the bowl after a time and needing some fuel manually poured into the carb to prime it. I have also read about this on a Ford truck forum.

I'm wanting to buy the truck and making sure it is mechanically sound enough to allow me to SAFELY haul my firewood. I want to do as much of the work myself as possible. I'm hoping the test drive will reveal a decent mechanically sound truck with very little initial maintenance to do. I might sound cheap, but the fact is I don't have very much cash available. In time, as money allows, I would do work to it as needed. So rope, your offer of the fuel tank and other parts is huge to me in thinking this through. The test drive might not happen for a week or so because the owner is pretty busy; but I might get to anxious and take a Saturday to go up there to clean out the interior, hook up the battery, somehow get rid of the old gas (if there is any left), add some fresh fuel and see what happens. And yes...my next trip will involve pics. Nice thing is that he didn't have the truck for sale...he just offered it to me, so I don't have to rush anything because of someone else wanting to buy it.

Kevin

 

[ropensaddle]

rope, you da man!!! To me, your fuel tank offer is huge!!! That has been one of my biggest concerns in thinking this purchase through. The previous owner (fella I called) had said that the fuel leaking from the carb was something that happened when the truck sat for a few days. Something about the fuel leaking from the bowl after a time and needing some fuel manually poured into the carb to prime it. I have also read about this on a Ford truck forum.

I'm wanting to buy the truck and making sure it is mechanically sound enough to allow me to SAFELY haul my firewood. I want to do as much of the work myself as possible. I'm hoping the test drive will reveal a decent mechanically sound truck with very little initial maintenance to do. I might sound cheap, but the fact is I don't have very much cash available. In time, as money allows, I would do work to it as needed. So rope, your offer of the fuel tank and other parts is huge to me in thinking this through. The test drive might not happen for a week or so because the owner is pretty busy; but I might get to anxious and take a Saturday to go up there to clean out the interior, hook up the battery, somehow get rid of the old gas (if there is any left), add some fresh fuel and see what happens. And yes...my next trip will involve pics. Nice thing is that he didn't have the truck for sale...he just offered it to me, so I don't have to rush anything because of someone else wanting to buy it.

Kevin

Be glad to help anyway I can it will need some work though they always do after sitting for long spells! When you get there pop off the master cylinder lid and see if its empty before taking the test drive fill it bleed it and it may be ok I have one that leaks slightly it is ok if you keep full once a month or so!Check radiator full etc.

 

[wdchuck]

Where else can you go to talk about trucks, tractors, trailers, chainsaws, winches, wenches, chaps, and everything in between, get help for all the aforementioned, all in one place?

The folks on this site rock. (except their chains, of course)

 

[KMB]

Where else can you go to talk about trucks, tractors, trailers, chainsaws, winches, wenches, chaps, and everything in between, get help for all the aforementioned, all in one place?

The folks on this site rock. (except their chains, of course)

Ain't that the truth? :agree2: +10.

wdchuck, I've printed out your PM's on the great info you've given me so far . They'll be coming with me on my next 'truck' trip .

Kevin

 

[panhead9]

If you can get that thing for under 500 take it it dont matter what gears etc etc it will haul anything you can throw at it just get it roadworthy if its a 70 it will have a 360-390 in it they run great.

 

[DieselTech]

With regard to the carb leak, don't be too concerned. They're generally easy to rebuild, and you should be able to get a 'rebuild kit (it's just gaskets and seals) for about 20-25 bucks. Nothing to it.

I would pay attention to the brakes. Are they power brakes, or manual? Manual brakes aren't that great, but they get the job done. If it's sat for a while, be prepared to work on them, though. If it's four wheel drums, be prepared to replace the master cylinder, all the rubber lines, and all four wheel cylinders. You might not have to, but be ready to. The same goes for drum/ disc combination, but it'll be two wheel cylinders and two calipers. It's not a difficult job if you've got basic mechanical skills, and usually not too expensive.

 

[KMB]

With regard to the carb leak, don't be too concerned. They're generally easy to rebuild, and you should be able to get a 'rebuild kit (it's just gaskets and seals) for about 20-25 bucks. Nothing to it.

I would pay attention to the brakes. Are they power brakes, or manual? Manual brakes aren't that great, but they get the job done. If it's sat for a while, be prepared to work on them, though. If it's four wheel drums, be prepared to replace the master cylinder, all the rubber lines, and all four wheel cylinders. You might not have to, but be ready to. The same goes for drum/ disc combination, but it'll be two wheel cylinders and two calipers. It's not a difficult job if you've got basic mechanical skills, and usually not too expensive.

Don't know what the brakes are. I'll see if I can price out the brake system parts you mentioned. I've had others warn me of the brakes.

Thanks to all who have replied so far.

Kevin

 

[ropensaddle]

Don't know what the brakes are. I'll see if I can price out the brake system parts you mentioned. I've had others warn me of the brakes.

Thanks to all who have replied so far.

Kevin

Kevin they are not bad if ya do them yourself 200.00 will most likely renew the brake system!
Ps that would be new master cylinder, shoes if needed could be higher if power and ya need a booster!

 

[KMB]

Kevin they are not bad if ya do them yourself 200.00 will most likely renew the brake system!
Ps that would be new master cylinder, shoes if needed could be higher if power and ya need a booster!

That would be my plan. I've already been looking for repair/maintenance manuals. Haynes has a manual for '73 to '79, and Chiltons has a manual for '76 to '86. Anybody know if either of these manuals will work for me since the truck is a '70 model? I'm hoping that the mechanical components (brakes, steering etc.) didn't change much in the later years. I have found a shop manual on CD for the truck on ebay. I would like a book copy of a repair manual for their handiness instead of going to the computer...but I could print out the necessary pages. I have the Haynes and Chilton manuals for my '97 F150 and I like the Haynes layout better.

I should slow down with all this planning and scheming. I don't want to set myself up for a huge let down if after the test drive and looking it over, the truck will disappoint/discourage me. Hopefully, after I get and post some pics here, that you guys with experience on these old trucks will give some direction.

Kevin

 

[brisawyer]

If you buy it remember the drivers side rear has left hand threads on the lugs. I learned the hard way.

 

[merlynr]

If you buy it remember the drivers side rear has left hand threads on the lugs. I learned the hard way.

Mine doesn't and I don't know of any that do in the F350 series

 

[brisawyer]

I have a 72 f 350 with left hand threads on the drivers side. Maybey it was a special or something. I twisted one off trying to change the tire.