My 2011 346XP has been a real beast cutting about 12 cords per year but has been losing power. I just did a top end compression test and it is 90 PSI so need to fix something. One of the allen head exhaust bolts is stripped and before I move on I am asking for advice on the best way to remove it. I figured someone on here has a technique I don't know of yet. I assume my 2011 is the "New Edition"? Thanks in advance.
2011 346XP stripped exhaust bolts, how to remove?
- Thread starter zeek
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Get the motor hot and then try it
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Heat and penetrating oil- if you can get it in between cylinder and muffler.
Next size up imperial hex driven into the stripped socket with a small hammer and turned with an adjustable spanner.
Cut the stud head off- or drill it off, remove the muffler, go back to heat and penetrating oil on the exposed threads and work carefully with vice grip pliers on the stud.
Next size up imperial hex driven into the stripped socket with a small hammer and turned with an adjustable spanner.
Cut the stud head off- or drill it off, remove the muffler, go back to heat and penetrating oil on the exposed threads and work carefully with vice grip pliers on the stud.
^^^^^this^^^^
Pics are a must!!
Pics are a must!!
I've been through this before on a 346 that I was rebuilding. One of the two muffler bolts was frozen in place and I would dose it with Kroil run the saw until the oil smoked, let it cool slightly, give it another dose of Kroil and let it soak for a couple days, try to remove the bolt, if it wouldn't break free, I would give it another cycle. After several cycles without success, I opted to push the hex driver to the max thinking that I would just cut away the muffler and bolt head to remove it and gain access to the cylinder area where the bolt was frozen if it didn't break free. In short the hex driver spun and the bolt didn't budge. Before I started with the cutting and grinding, I grabbed a T25 torx driver and drove it into the rounded out hex driver hole with a hammer, then started applying my impact driver at the lower force setting. Nothing happened, so I kept on increasing the torque setting until it was maxed out. Once there I again faced the grind and cut removal, so I just let the impact driver work on the screw for 30 seconds or so before the bolt spun. I was relieved to see threads on the bolt, meaning that I didn't snap the bolt off in the cylinder head. Hope things work out for you.
I've had success driving a torx bit into the allen head... as long as it doesn't snap off in there
Is the bolt stripped or locked up or do you mean the allen head recess is rounded out?
I have a set of torx sockets just for rounded out Allen head bolts. Works well most of the time.
Did you ever get the bolt removed? Even though you are replacing the jug and piston it's good practice
No I did not, but I am going to getting the saw cleaned up and ready for @PA Dan to help me out.
simonmeridew
ArboristSite Lurker
I have heard if you heat the saw up really warm by running it and then take a butane gas can, Direct the gas to the broken off bolt this will cool it down sufficiently the difference in temperature will allow you to get a fastener into the bolt and turn it
We used a broken off T27 and some heat and that bolt came right out!
Well done!
True story!
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