2nd saw for a weekend warrior

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The point is he does not need a so called pro saw, he needs a limbing saw.

While I am comitted to Stihl (and my research is there), the reality is unless you want to throw money away, you don't buy a pro saw for every use.

So what if the small Stihls have clamshell engine that can't be rebuilt?

You also need to stay current with the line. There are new saws with different features and there are older design saws.

He won't ever NEED to rebuild it! He is limbming all of 10 cords a year!, not cutting heavy timer day in and out. He is cuttign the 10 cords with his other saw.

Its hardwood, so he needs a good saw, but I have yet to see a Stihl that won't cut beyond its so called rated category when it needs to. Obviously its not all day long. An MS 192 will over cut when needed and not hurt it.

So will an MS180, but keep in mind that he wants ease of use, the 192 is 2 lbs LESS than a 180. Yes you pay the price, but then this is a long term investment. 192 is another wolf in sheeps clothing as its obliviously a small pro saw in the so called Occasional use category. Stihl does a poor job of organizing their saws class and use wise.

If he is a pro limbing all day long then a pro saw makes sense (i.e rebuildable).

The MS270 is not a pro saw, but the way I use it, it will never see a rebuild.
If it does, 20 years from now, you will buy a new saw not rebuild it. Cost won't be worth it.

Net cost to me for the saw, $20 a year if it last 20 years.

Back to saw selection, the first thing you do is "define your need" then look for the saw of whatever manufacture that fulfills it.

Mfg has a lot of selection criteria, from what you like, ergonomics, support etc.

Oh, well since you put it that way.......WILDTHINGS FOR EVERYBODY!!!!! :dizzy:
 
How about a used 028WB or even better, super. Put a 16" bar on it and start limbing. I use mine to limb and cut small wood. It works great. I don't know the weight difference between the saws you mention and the 028, but you can get a decent one for about $200. I paid $25 for mine.
 
Interesting OP. I had the same situation some years ago, having an Olympyk that croaked and a 290 and a 361 that I got to replace the dead Oly. I bought a 210. Too little power for my likes, but the ex loved it. So it remains with her now. I then got an 025, and a 250 as a backup for smaller limbing saw. They work OK for that. Problem with the 1123 lineup is that working on them is a real PITA. They are also fairly cheaply made, with all the plastic. The back handles tend to crack and they are somewhat prone to clutch grenading, and/or melting the housing around the brake area. The oil pumps are pretty cheap too. I found that running .325 B&C on the 025/250 saws was a disappointment. I run low profile (picco) B&C on them now, with better results. I am still wanting to replace them though. I will probably get a 346xp/NE. The 026 is also a good saw, but get the older pro model, with the clear gas tank and adjustible oiler and carb. AV is not as good as the 346 though. I would love to have a Dolmar dealer here that has the 420 to try out... but lo, the PNW is devoid of such saws on shelves. That with a low profile B&C would be nice.

I still want a baby 361! :chainsaw:
 
I'm REALLY a weekend warrior

In realistic terms, guys, I am a true weekend warrior and not in the position to wear out any chainsaw. I know that's hard for some of you pros to comprehend, but for me it's the (sad?) truth. At the same time, as a motorcycle gearhead and a shooter/reloader I enjoy superior craftsmanship and fine build quality as much as the next guy. And of course I'm looking for value for the money. So I went looking through AS and it seems the Dolmar 420 and Shindaiwa 377 are newer designs that are really setting the pace in that displacement range. Are these two the choices to beat in this size range?

And although I can do my own wrenching, I no longer find it very enjoyable. I'd rather ride the bike or run the saw than fiddle with them. If I dig up a pristine older unit on CL, however, I would also opt for that.

Again, many thanks for your help. I need to find a competent dealer somewhere.
 
Yup, Find a nice used 026, 260, 024, 024super(or buy new 260) or the 346. Then keep your eyes peeled for a nice used 440. Good 2 saw plan. I would go with the 440 over the 460 for firewooding. Cheaper, lighter, and easier to find used. WDO
 
A little more towards what you are asking on the Stihls, don't get the 192t. The top handle is not what you need, it's more liable to kickback, sure looks neat, but it's meant for use in a tree.
Then don't get the ms192 either. For the money the 180 is a MUCH more powerful saw and buil better IMO!
The ms210 is just a turd, period!
I have not run a 250 so I can't say.
I have run 026's, owned and modded a 346xp none of them did anything for me either. I modded a Husky 350 and have been happy ever since!
The Shinny saws are built like TANKS!!! Big Swiss watches, AWSOME craftsmanship. BUT finding parts can be hard, and they can be pricey, as well as a bit heavy for the power.
Seriously for you, look at Bailey's for the Echo, Efco and Solo saws. Cheap and durable enough.
WHEN CAD strikes, you will get the 460 and never look back (I didn't:)) Then you will have a 50cc, a 60cc, all modded of course, a 200t and something in between:monkey:
 
I work frozen wood piles down to -25 or so.

I have dropped the saw, had it fall off logs when I set it down , vibrated it off and had it drop. I have tripped and stumbled and dropped it (when you are going down, I learned to make sure the saw went someplace else).

Upshot is the 270 has a single piece of the small side intake cross pieces break off.

You list your price range as $300. MS250 gets you 3 hp at $320. PS-420 look up price is $289.

Plastic is not always an issue. All cordless drills are plastic, and I know what kind of abuse they take.

You really have to decide weight and lightness and how important, then ability to cut what you need and fine tune it.
 
Found One!

I searched around the county yesterday and finally found a dealer who speaks CAD! He carries a variety of brands, Stihl, Echo, Shindaiwa and Dolmar, but not Husky. Unfortunately, California emissions regs do not permit dealers to sell a number of saws, including the Shinny 377 that I was hoping to look at. He can get that Dolmar 420, but I'm not sure if I want to try and replace the cat muffler and get it set up right. So now it looks like my choices in a lighter saw are a new MS 250 or a used 260...
 
Brad: Shinny 377 or Dolmar 420 info

Good question; Brad, are you there? Do you still have that Shinny 377 or did it go on eBay? also, in your excellent thread on the Dolmar 420 mods stage by stage, you didn't explain what was involved in getting rid of the catalytic converter. Do you toss the whole muffler and replace it with another, or do you remove a cat element from the stocker?

I'm hoping that maybe the Dolmar muffler mod is easy, and this might be a better choice than going with a new MS 250, and a cheaper choice than a used MS 260.
 
ill vouch for used 026 260. lots of them in good shape to be had for a fraction of what they cost new.

you could get a like new one for 200-300.

im realy likeing mine. im planning to cut 30plus cord of firewood this year and im sure the 026 will see its fair share of use.
 
Good question; Brad, are you there? Do you still have that Shinny 377 or did it go on eBay? also, in your excellent thread on the Dolmar 420 mods stage by stage, you didn't explain what was involved in getting rid of the catalytic converter. Do you toss the whole muffler and replace it with another, or do you remove a cat element from the stocker?

I'm hoping that maybe the Dolmar muffler mod is easy, and this might be a better choice than going with a new MS 250, and a cheaper choice than a used MS 260.

The 377 is gone.

The cat was gone when I got it. It's a simple mod though and can be found in another thread on here. Not sure which one it was. The cat comes out of it if I recall correctly.

No way would I consider a MS250 over the 420. The 420 is a truely pro built saw where as the 250 is not at all. I be the 420 with a muffler mod would seriously outcut it too, although I don't have any testing to prove that.

The 260 will be a stronger saw, but a lot more money. If you want to save some dough and get a nice pro built saw, jump all over that 420. You won't regret it.
 
He scores!

Well, thanks to all of you who chimed in with good advice here about a 2nd saw to go with my MS 390, I scored on what I think is a real winner. I found a Stihl MS 260 on CL that was very lightly used; as you can see it has just a few scratches on the bar, the plastic and even the bottom are all in great shape. You can even see that most of the green paint remains on the safety chain’s link. Considering the population base we have here in So Cal, we don’t really see that many used, quality saws on CL so I was very please to find this one. I nabbed it for what a Shindaiwa 377 would have cost, but that Shiny is not available in the People’s Republik of Kalifornia.

I took the two saws cutting at the ranch this weekend and the 260 performed flawlessly, and it’s much handier for limbing than the 390. It cuts great on the small to medium stuff, although the 390 did outcut it in the really big stuff, which was expected. I may replace that 18” bar with a 16” soon, and I’m planning on doing a muffler mod this weekend. Thanks again for all the good input you people provided. For a weekend warrior, this pair will work out just fine. I was thinking about getting a MS 180, but I don’t think I really need it since the 260 is so handy. As for the 390, it cuts well but maybe a muffler mod after the warranty is up and an RSC chain will soup it up a bit. Or maybe a MS 460 instead? CAD never sleeps…
 
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