338xpt PROBLEMS: oiler, idling, tuning, etc..

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Greenstar

ArboristSite Operative
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Guys, I have loved these saws for many years. I have owned 5 of them, and I learned the hard way how to maintain them...after throwing out a shoulder. You have to clean the air filter all the time if you want them to start for you.

Basically, my problems started after using vegetable oil for my chain lube into the winter. They were problem free all through the year...but once it got cold, the vegetable oil hardens up like glue, and I think it clogged up into some sort of a sap. Basically I should have known to use Canola instead, bcos it doesn't form a glue like build-up!

Basically, long story short...It seems that after they started having all kinds of oiler issues and running slowly because the bar was getting hot, thats when they stopped running smoothly. Now that was two years ago, and since then I have run gas through them, I have turned up the oiler a bunch of turns, and I have had them serviced and now got them to oil again... But still, they just don't quite seem like they run like they used to. Eventhough they oil they seem like they don't oil enough, or like they used to, and there is resistance. The other day it finally felt like I had one of them tuned properly and like it used to run...but then after about 5 minutes it seemed to start running poorly again, and wouldn't idle, and kept stalling out..etc.

I feel like I should:
A.) First I would love to get to the oiler system somehow and try to clean it all out somehow and rebuild it, just get to the bottom of that and somehow see if I can clean it out or something, to make sure the chain just flows like it used to. (Again, it just doesn't seem like its pouring the amount of oil it should...and although it will spray oil off the tip, I just wish there was a way I could measure whether its sufficient or not and if there's a problem.)

B.) Then I would like to make sure I am trying to tune this properly. I have watched many tutorials and experts, and have tuned saws over the years of my 18 years in business for myself. Most of the time they were Stihls. But if anyone has some tips on how to tune a 338xpt, a tempermental one, please give me some tips, or point me towards a link or tutorial please that would be great. I would love to be able to rule out throwing a carburetor at it! Or also...

C.) have you guys seen crank seal leaks in these cause idling issues... OR Intake leaks of some sort, or fuel line leaks... I feel like I should just go through the saws, no!? I just can't believe I cant get either of the two I have to run right now. I know it still has potential though..

my 200T is great, but it still just doesn't quite have the ergonomic feel that my 338 had. Any expert advice would help. Thanks guys.
 
I know this is an old post but I just had my 2139t down to nothing with the oiler piston out twice in a week. I got it working fine when you turn by hand. I think the problem with the oiler is that the spring wears out and won't reciprocate the oiler piston at running speed. Now the performance problem comes in when you split the case to work on the oiler it doesn't get sealed up nice like stock when it goes back together. I would take it apart once more clean everything real good, replace the factory spring on the oiler piston even maybe go heavier or double up ? And make sure it's sealed up nice with yamabond or something when the case goes back together.

The other thing: I couldn't get that dang carb boot clamp to work right again so I cinched a stainless steel zip tie around it, that sealed it up tight. That will screw up the way the saw runs too if it's not tight.
 
Oiling piston out? It can only be removed if the adjustment screw is turned out completely. If you reassemble the case make sure the gasket is in the correct position (not turn it 180 degrees) and use a new gasket if the old one is worn. No need to use a liquid gasket.
 
Oiling piston out? It can only be removed if the adjustment screw is turned out completely. If you reassemble the case make sure the gasket is in the correct position (not turn it 180 degrees) and use a new gasket if the old one is worn. No need to use a liquid gasket.
Yeah I took it out to figure out why it wouldn't oil the bar. Checked everything. Replaced the worm gear, tested the oil line, blew out the fittings, had oil running through the line, it would even pump oil when you turn the piston by hand but when it was at running speed, no oil. I think the oiler piston is just "floating" in the oil as it turns at operation speed and never pushing out against the adjustment screw. I just bought a 2238 to get me through till I can work this out. The 2139t runs and cuts great, just can't get it to pump oil. I'm going to try the new spring I think, it was an expensive little saw, I can't afford to have it on the shelf too long. Any insight you can offer would be appreciated.
 
Yeah I took it out to figure out why it wouldn't oil the bar. Checked everything. Replaced the worm gear, tested the oil line, blew out the fittings, had oil running through the line, it would even pump oil when you turn the piston by hand but when it was at running speed, no oil. I think the oiler piston is just "floating" in the oil as it turns at operation speed and never pushing out against the adjustment screw. I just bought a 2238 to get me through till I can work this out. The 2139t runs and cuts great, just can't get it to pump oil. I'm going to try the new spring I think, it was an expensive little saw, I can't afford to have it on the shelf too long. Any insight you can offer would be appreciated.

i've never had one of the johnnyshreds but i've had three of the huskys 338/339t's. i've always had problems with them. early on they were recalled for oiler problems. the little brass barbs would fall out of the magnesium case. also on early models the spark plug cover was held on by clips instead of a screw and would eventually disappear somewhere down under the tree. after that the spark plug would always find it's way to that most sensitive of places. compared to the 020t, 330/360t and other like saws their balance is terrible because the carb is on the front and that moves the top handle back more than an inch and behind the center of gravity, making them nose heavy, even with a 12" bar. also it's irritating for me that it takes extra effort to open them wfo because the balance and throttle linkage are screwy. the early air filters were a bad joke. the new ones are better but you have to clean them a lot especially in wet conditions. i still have one that is in like-new condition since i switched over to echos. never going back.
 
i've never had one of the johnnyshreds but i've had three of the huskys 338/339t's. i've always had problems with them. early on they were recalled for oiler problems. the little brass barbs would fall out of the magnesium case. also on early models the spark plug cover was held on by clips instead of a screw and would eventually disappear somewhere down under the tree. after that the spark plug would always find it's way to that most sensitive of places. compared to the 020t, 330/360t and other like saws their balance is terrible because the carb is on the front and that moves the top handle back more than an inch and behind the center of gravity, making them nose heavy, even with a 12" bar. also it's irritating for me that it takes extra effort to open them wfo because the balance and throttle linkage are screwy. the early air filters were a bad joke. the new ones are better but you have to clean them a lot especially in wet conditions. i still have one that is in like-new condition since i switched over to echos. never going back.
Would you like to sell it ? My son loves the 2139t and doesn't want to climb without it. I have an old orange 191t that is afraid of heights. It runs great on the ground but when it gets way up there it won't start. Probably co-incedence, probably the coil but only fails over 40' up.
 
A tree service has a 338 that would not oil the properly and found the oil tank vent plugged with pine pitch.
 

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