I have a new 346XPG on order and I am wondering if I should go with the 18" like I run on my 357 or a 16"? How does the saw balance with the 18". It will be switched to 3/8 from the get go. CJ
346 bar length?
- Thread starter CJ1
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o8f150
Tree Freak
i run a 16" 3/8 on mine
They'll balance fine with 16, 18, or 20" bars. I used to run a 16", but now run a 20" for the added reach. It balances fine and really saves my lower back.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I don't think I'd want a solid bar in a 20" laminated and/or n/k maybe.
nmurph
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Yep!!! Me too.
SawTroll
Information Collector
syczek
ArboristSite Lurker
I usually use 16" with .325 full chisel chain form Oregon or Stihl.
Because a 20" MAJORLY saves my lower back.
And why have a 357 when you can have a ported 346?
bigredd
ArboristSite Guru
Mine has 18", .325 with chisel chain and pulls it just fine. Went with 18" mostly to add a few inches over the 200T when needed up in a tree.
With laminated bars, I do not notice a difference between 16 or 20"(and I have both). In any case, I have had many days where I have spent 6-8 hours with a 385xp or a 365 in my hands. Arguing over the weight of a 20" laminated bar!? Aren't you supposed to be a viking?!
Viking up, Troll!
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I don't have much to compare to but I really like my 346xp with the 18" .325 narrow kerf. It feels extremely well balanced to me, doesn't seem nose heavy at all. I actually switched mine from .058 to .050 bar when I first bought it because I had a few brand new chains and another nice bar that were all 18" .325 nk from my old J-red 2050. I liked the way that setup ran on that saw and figured why change. I find I have good reach and there is no problem with power or cutting speed with the 18" bar. Of course the nk makes a thinner cut so logically I would think it takes a little less power to run it so you can stretch the bar length a little but as good as it runs I really don't think 18" would be a problem with the 3/8 chain.
I can see the argument that if you already have a bigger saw with a longer bar why go with a 18" or 20" on the 346. I only have one saw that I use most of the time but even if I had a bigger saw I think I'd rather use a lighter saw as much as possible, less time spent switching up saws and easier to use all day. So you might as well go with a bar that gives you a little extra reach for limbing. Just because you have a 18" bar on a 346 doesn't mean you have to cut bigger wood with it. It's really personal preference, I think it will cut great with a 16", 18" or 20" bar in either .325 or 3/8.
Congrats on the new saw, let us know what you decide and how you like it when it comes in.
I can see the argument that if you already have a bigger saw with a longer bar why go with a 18" or 20" on the 346. I only have one saw that I use most of the time but even if I had a bigger saw I think I'd rather use a lighter saw as much as possible, less time spent switching up saws and easier to use all day. So you might as well go with a bar that gives you a little extra reach for limbing. Just because you have a 18" bar on a 346 doesn't mean you have to cut bigger wood with it. It's really personal preference, I think it will cut great with a 16", 18" or 20" bar in either .325 or 3/8.
Congrats on the new saw, let us know what you decide and how you like it when it comes in.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I can understand that - no problem, as I have "heard" of your lower back issue before. However, for most people a shorter bar vs. bending is not a real issue.
I agree, I run 18's and 20's on my saws almost always, even the 390 sees that bar more than anything else. Sawtroll my 357 is going down the road to a lucky new owner. I have to try one of the gold plated 346's. Eric I have a couple of 18" bars so I will get the saw with a 16".
Thanks all!!!! CJ
I will, this saw has ALOT to live up to. I will be run HARD for a few days to see what it is made of then it will be modded. My 372 is my primary saw and it is the one I prefer. The 357 got ran if and when I was whipped, usually after about 6 hours or so. [not as fit as I used to be] and that does not happen alot anymore with just cutting fire wood and tree removeal. A few weekends ago we removed 4 trees and the 357 was ran by someone else and only had 1/2 a tank ran through it. The trees were cut up in 3 hours or so. I figure to swap my 357 and 338 for the 346. I think it will be a good replacement and get used more often. I don't like to see stuff sit, it either gets used or replaced. CJ
Bill Jones
ArboristSite Lurker
I bought a 346 about two weeks ago and I really like it so far. I have ran about 5 tanks of gas through it and cant find anything to complain about. I got my saw with the 18" bar instead of the 20" bar. I got the 18" bar because I had access to a larger saw with a big bar and figured I did not need two saws with same size bar. I am thinking about going to 3/8's chains when its time to replace the one that came with it, but so far the .325 is working really well.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I agree, better to let it go than let it sit. I know CAD is a powerful force but I have the cure - live in CT where the taxes and cost of living are absurd so you can't afford to own more than one or two saws. I hate to say that I think 18" is the ideal bar length for the 346xp because I haven't run anything else on it but it just feels perfect to me, can't imagine it getting any better.
272super
ArboristSite Operative
.325 and 16" bar on mine. Works for me.
