346 XP NE seize

[husq2100]

Hey blokes, its been a while.....

Ive unfortunately seized my little Husky 346 XP new edition, well new in 2008 lol

No idea why, ive never seized any of my 2t equipment before. I was thinking fuel/oil but dont think thats the case. Are these known to get an intake leak ? Any ideas welcome.....


Intake:





Exhaust:





Exhaust side of Cylinder:

 

[Squareground3691]

Was it running erratically at all , before failure ? ,

 

[husq2100]

Not really.

I always empty and run at idle until out of fuel before putting away as they don't get used regularly. I only use good fuel and oil (40:1)

I filled it, primed and started it. It usually only takes 3 pulls to pop, then starts next pull. It did take a few more. Ran for a bit, used for say 5 mins, and it cut out. Didnt want to re start. I pulled the top cover, quick blow off, pulled spark plug and cleaned, cracked fuel cap in case it had pressurized, put back together, many pulls and it restarted. Ran for another 5-10 mins then cut out. I could not get it started again, put aside and finished the job. Only just now got to pulling it down....

 

[Squareground3691]

Looks like a run lean condition,

 

[buzz sawyer]

Ouch. Curious about the impression of the intake on the piston. Was the saw modded?

 

[bwalker]

Air leak.

 

[husq2100]

Looks like a run lean condition,

Sure does, but is it a fuel problem or air leak?

 

[husq2100]

Ouch. Curious about the impression of the intake on the piston. Was the saw modded?

Saw is completely stock. That seems to be just the fuel mix film. Im not sure why it left the intake window like that. It did sit for a while (4 months) before I stripped it down. I'll double check today but pretty sure it wiped off...

 

[husq2100]

Air leak.

Anything in particular to look out for? This one has the metal clip over the older plastic type that was troublesome.

 

[Squareground3691]

If you do a rebuild, pressure/vac test it , would replace crank seals and any other gaskets ,

 

[bwalker]

Anything in particular to look out for? This one has the metal clip over the older plastic type that was troublesome.

It's hard to say. I'd replace all the seals, intake boot, impulse hose and throw a carb kit at it. I would also vac and pressure test.

 

[husq2100]

It's hard to say. I'd replace all the seals, intake boot, impulse hose and throw a carb kit at it. I would also vac and pressure test.

I was hoping for the easy way out lol.... ive had my fun with saws and now focused on a my very custom Land Rover build. I managed to get the exhaust blocked, I have a fitting for spark plug hole and I think ill have to sandwich some rubber in between the carb and intake. Unfortunately the cylinder to C/case gasket broke apart on strip down, ill mock something up for that so I can pressure test it.

Ill need a new piston and ring at least. The cylinder should be fine with a little hydrochloric acid and ball hone. Of course this being a more modern saw than my older 2 series, the intake is 5-6 pieces..... (shaking head)

It will be interesting to see what the cost of parts will be over here. Nothing is cheap anymore....

 

[Sidecarflip]

Use Easy Off oven cleaner on a cotton swab. Much easier and less aggressive. New slug, rings and seals for sure and I agree, looks run lean. Time for the Mity-Vac.

 

[bwalker]

I was hoping for the easy way out lol.... ive had my fun with saws and now focused on a my very custom Land Rover build. I managed to get the exhaust blocked, I have a fitting for spark plug hole and I think ill have to sandwich some rubber in between the carb and intake. Unfortunately the cylinder to C/case gasket broke apart on strip down, ill mock something up for that so I can pressure test it.

Ill need a new piston and ring at least. The cylinder should be fine with a little hydrochloric acid and ball hone. Of course this being a more modern saw than my older 2 series, the intake is 5-6 pieces..... (shaking head)

It will be interesting to see what the cost of parts will be over here. Nothing is cheap anymore....

The items I mentioned are pretty cheap. If you don't replace them all you run a good chance of developing another air leak. Rubber parts have a limited life.

 

[sean donato]

Does the intake boot have the metal clamp? The plastic clamps were know to break and cause air leaks.

 

[husq2100]

Yep, metal clamp as I mentioned earlier.

Made a dodgy cylinder gasket out of a Manila folder, even sprayed with hylomar but unfortunately it’s leaking a little.

It takes 1 minute to drop from 15 to 12 inHg of vacuum

The gasket might settle overnight. So before stripping again I’ll give a go tomorrow…

 

[J D]

It takes 1 minute to drop from 15 to 12 inHg of vacuum

Thats within Husqvarna specs... not perfect, but within spec.
I would measure squish as it is, you may find there will be gains to be made by removing or fitting a thinner gasket.
Be sure to seal it with a fuel rated sealant (three bond, dirko, etc) or you may find yourself doing it again sooner rather thsn later.

 

[husq2100]

Thats within Husqvarna specs... not perfect, but within spec.
I would measure squish as it is, you may find there will be gains to be made by removing or fitting a thinner gasket.
Be sure to seal it with a fuel rated sealant (three bond, dirko, etc) or you may find yourself doing it again sooner rather thsn later.

It does not hold at 12 inHg, that’s just the rate of drop. It drops out to zero.

 

[Tomos770]

Ouch. Curious about the impression of the intake on the piston. Was the saw modded?

Dunno what cause that...but I have the same "painting" on the exhaust side of 550mk2 piston....

 

[J D]

It does not hold at 12 inHg, that’s just the rate of drop. It drops out to zero.

The generic Husqvarna service manual only gives details on pressure testing. Pump up to 0.8 bar & it should not drop below 0.6 bar in 30 seconds to pass.
Does it have decompression valve? If so try pulling on it to help it seal while testing