346xp high idle

[Chainsaw Jim]

I believe the problem here was caused by a genius who used seals from the 350. I don't know why, but several people selling seals online have them listed to fit both the clamshell Husqvarna and the 346. The seals are completely different.

 

[sre09]

I believe the problem here was caused by a genius who used seals from the 350. I don't know why, but several people selling seals online have them listed to fit both the clamshell Husqvarna and the 346. The seals are completely different.

Could you send some pics with the bearings and seals for the 346xp

 

[DrewUth]

I dont know if in video you can see but when i move the seal the bearing moves also.

If the outer race of the bearing is moving in the cases, you have a bigger issue- the cases are worn. The bearing should be press fit fairly tight in there. Good news (possibly) is that LocTite makes a "bearing retainer compound", I think it is green, and it takes up space and holds bearings in tight. I have had luck with it in some applications. Otherwise, you could potentially "stake" the cases around the bearing with a punch to tighten it up- did that on an old YZ125- it works for a little while but is far from a permanent solution.

 

[sre09]

If the outer race of the bearing is moving in the cases, you have a bigger issue- the cases are worn. The bearing should be press fit fairly tight in there. Good news (possibly) is that LocTite makes a "bearing retainer compound", I think it is green, and it takes up space and holds bearings in tight. I have had luck with it in some applications. Otherwise, you could potentially "stake" the cases around the bearing with a punch to tighten it up- did that on an old YZ125- it works for a little while but is far from a permanent solution.

That was my problem with the bearing that no one else noticed it, the outer race of the bearing moves when i move the seal

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

The first picture will show you what appears to be in your saw and they are not the correct seals nor is this the correct interchange information....



This next pic is what the correct seals look like and what the interchange should be....

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I wouldn't worry too much about the correct seal at this point. You have a much more serious problem with that wobbly bearing.
It's time to either junk it or split the case and completely rebuild it.

 

[DrewUth]

http://www.all-spec.com/products/18...L6uKLjwRFwK4qL5T3QElL0Gbnwq7OrLbaTxoCoSfw_wcB

This is the stuff I was talking about (if a loose bearing is indeed your issue). I have never had one of these saws apart, so I cannot claim to know exactly what is going on there- just going by what I can see in the vids.

 

[sre09]

I wouldn't worry too much about the correct seal at this point. You have a much more serious problem with that wobbly bearing.
It's time to either junk it or split the case and completely rebuild it.

Of course i will split the case and i will put new bearings and new seals, but my question is, it will worth it? The new bearing will be tight in the case?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

there's only one way to tell, and when you get that far your first question will answer itself.

 

[CapitaineHaddoc]

Of course i will split the case and i will put new bearings and new seals, but my question is, it will worth it? The new bearing will be tight in the case?

I am pretty sure that a new bearing will make your saw run fine. I am on my phone, and it is hard to see how bad it is, but on my saws there's no oil seal on the clutch side, but there's a sealed right bearing. I think a new bearing will be just fine.

 

[sunfish]

Yes, it's worth fixin! I'd replace with the 'right' bearing/seal and use locktite, it'll be fine.

 

[Red97]

That is the correct bearing/seal for the 346, the 350 seal covers the entire bearing, you can see the O.D in the vid. the 346 seal is a thin band that covers just the rollers.

I am afraid that side of the case is more than likely junk. Supposed to be a light shrink/press fit in the cases.

 

[sre09]

That is the correct bearing/seal for the 346, the 350 seal covers the entire bearing, you can see the O.D in the vid. the 346 seal is a thin band that covers just the rollers.

I am afraid that side of the case is more than likely junk. Supposed to be a light shrink/press fit in the cases.

Yes indeed the case is bad, i just spilt the case and the other side of flywhell is good the bearing is tight in there

 

[DrewUth]

Well, you could try that loctite stuff I posted up earlier. I have had great success with it fixing rear wheel bearings in older MX bikes whose rear hubs are too hammered to hold the bearings in. That application takes a serious beating and the loctite has held up. However, I cannot attest to how long it would hold up in a high RPM/Heat environment like a main bearing.

That being said...I think it would be worth a shot. Just glue the old bearing, put a fresh seal in and run it- you're only out the time really; if the bearing comes loose again it will be easy to pull the seal out and put it in a new case half if you get one. H*ll, even if you get another 12-20 hours of use out of it I would call it a success.

 

[redoakneck]

Looks toasted to me???

That's stinks

 

[sre09]

Pls tell me guys a 357 case will work with the 346 crank and other parts?

 

[HiOctane]

Pls tell me guys a 357 case will work with the 346 crank and other parts?

Wont fit.

 

[sre09]

Wont fit.

Ok thx