sunfish
Fish Head
What is the compression of this saw?
346xp problems
- Thread starter palbin
- Start date
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Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
you just knew without making the mistake then LOL. i had to make the mistake to learn. i hate tygon, not to mention it don't come in the same OD as the factory fuel line.
sunfish
Fish Head
LOL. I tried a after market line on the old 346 about 10-12 years ago and it lasted less than a year. Only use OEM since.
Yeah - TYGON - that seems to be my replacement/backup
fuel hose supply (besides shorter bits of the black stuff) -
while the original fuel hose is black (more rubbery I guess)
- so Tygon is no hit then
? Better with the black stuff?
I have read etanol (E95) i a culprit in carbs etc (and even
more nitro ) - but I think that in Sweden etatanol has gas
in it - but gas no etanol - just what I was told by someone
from the gas business - but that could certainly have varied
in time ... .
fuel hose supply (besides shorter bits of the black stuff) -
while the original fuel hose is black (more rubbery I guess)
- so Tygon is no hit then
? Better with the black stuff?I have read etanol (E95) i a culprit in carbs etc (and even
more nitro
) - but I think that in Sweden etatanol has gasin it - but gas no etanol - just what I was told by someone
from the gas business - but that could certainly have varied
in time ... .
sunfish
Fish Head
The aftermarket line I used was black and no good. OEM lines are best.Yeah - TYGON - that seems to be my replacement/backup
fuel hose supply (besides shorter bits of the black stuff) -
while the original fuel hose is black (more rubbery I guess)
- so Tygon is no hit then
.
Ethanol = worldwide problem
What is the compression - how should I know that ?
Doesn't seem noticably different than my other two 346
xp - could be that it is ever so slightly less - but that I
couldn't say - piston and cylinder walls looks smooth like
baby skin (?) - one could of course switch piston ring (I
think I might have a new one lying some where ...).
WHAT IS "DIFFUSER JETS" by the way ?
?Doesn't seem noticably different than my other two 346
xp - could be that it is ever so slightly less - but that I
couldn't say - piston and cylinder walls looks smooth like
baby skin (?) - one could of course switch piston ring (I
think I might have a new one lying some where ...).
WHAT IS "DIFFUSER JETS" by the way
?
sunfish
Fish Head
I wouldn't switch any rings if the the P&C look good.What is the compression - how should I know that
Doesn't seem noticably different than my other two 346
xp - could be that it is ever so slightly less - but that I
couldn't say - piston and cylinder walls looks smooth like
baby skin (?) - one could of course switch piston ring (I
think I might have a new one lying some where ...).
WHAT IS "DIFFUSER JETS" by the way
I don't know what a "DIFFUSER JETS" is?
after a few months in ethanol , you looking for the tygon and for the bowl also
PULLINmyPOULAN
ArboristSite Operative
I had one of my 346 acting this same way found hole in the line leading to the primer.
Ahaa - good tip - the primer lining seems to be of inferi-
or quality as compared with the other fuel hoses - should
perhaps try to side-step the primer then (as I never use it
anyway) by mounting no-primer 357xp EL-42 or Walbro
carb and plug primer hole in tank ... makes machine less
complicated anyway which is good from my point of view ... .
or quality as compared with the other fuel hoses - should
perhaps try to side-step the primer then (as I never use it
anyway) by mounting no-primer 357xp EL-42 or Walbro
carb and plug primer hole in tank ... makes machine less
complicated anyway which is good from my point of view ... .
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
You (all) should use alkylate fuel in your saws and other small engines. Aspen, Neste or what ever brand is available in your country.
It is best for engine and much less poisonous to user. And no alcohol. And no need to worry if leave it in tank for year it stys goog much loger time than nomal gasoline.
It is best for engine and much less poisonous to user. And no alcohol. And no need to worry if leave it in tank for year it stys goog much loger time than nomal gasoline.
Yeahh - I know - they had a sale out - I think three years
ago - at the Husky stores in Sweden - they sold "alkylat" at
exactly the same price as pump gas - 15 kr/liter then I beli-
ve - I should have bought all of it ... . Too late now ... .
ago - at the Husky stores in Sweden - they sold "alkylat" at
exactly the same price as pump gas - 15 kr/liter then I beli-
ve - I should have bought all of it
... . Too late now ... .
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
Here in Finland it is being sold from pump in several gas station. Costs 2€ per liter. Its quite expensive purchased in cans...
272super
ArboristSite Operative
Sounds like you should pressure test the crankcase. As mentioned before the intake boot is a common area for air leaks. The boot is the the part that clamps to the cylinder and will leak in a few places. The only way to find out if it's a problem is pressure test the saw. Could be a bad seal but not as likely. Test will indicate that as well.
Yes - thanks - suppose I have to assemble the thing then in
order to pressure it and then disassemble again - bad news
... .
Suppose I have to purchase one of those pressurizer things
one see in the work shop manual ... well that is what I sho-
uld have done already ... .
order to pressure it and then disassemble again - bad news
... .
Suppose I have to purchase one of those pressurizer things
one see in the work shop manual ... well that is what I sho-
uld have done already ... .
It seems reasonably easy to fins a useful pressurizer - for
example the
Mityvac MV8255
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKGZBW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
(although it unfortunately costs almost 100 bucks to get
one landed in Sweden --- ... ).
But whatabout the two cover plates (workshop manual
page 44) that should be used to cover inlet and exhaust
holes of cylinder at pressure test - these one should try
to find original ones I suppose? Or will a home fix do the
job?
example the
Mityvac MV8255
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKGZBW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
(although it unfortunately costs almost 100 bucks to get
one landed in Sweden --- ... ).
But whatabout the two cover plates (workshop manual
page 44) that should be used to cover inlet and exhaust
holes of cylinder at pressure test - these one should try
to find original ones I suppose? Or will a home fix do the
job?
decableguy2000
ArboristSite Guru
As far as a block off plate you use a piece of inner tube between the muffler and cylinder and same between the carburettor and intake. To pressurize the saw I made a tool out of a blood pressure cuff, a small brass tee, a low pressure gauge, small hose barbs, and tubing. Less than $25 US and all parts found locally. I used a cheap brake bleeder set for vacuum. I used this setup fora while until I stepped on the bleeder and broke the gauge twice! I have bought the mity-vac since that happened. You don't have to have all the fancy factory type tools to work on saws but it does make things easier.
Jeremy
Jeremy
"piece of inner tube" - yes clever - you mean like sturdy
bicycle inner tube I suppose - yes that sounds right ... .
I was thinking of possibly making something with bicyc-
le pump as well - I have a lot of threading stuff etc, but
not the M 14 x 1,25 thread I measure the spark plug to -
guess one possibly could work something out with thre-
ad inserts from some well supplied place to build a
spark-plug-hole-to-bicycle-pump adaptor ... .
PS. I was using the saw to chop some nasty firewood bits
last spring - which could have caused unusual vibration
(with hindsight) - it was in connection with this the prob-
lems arrived - I have just a little hope that the inlet-black-
plastic-thing (including the little fuel-type-hose that com-
es with it) could have been a little dislocated or so after
that (although one could see nothing of that at an inspec-
tion by my eye) and that saw could work again after ass-
embly - replacing the mentioned hose - just having been
shaken back to right set-up, sort of ... .
bicycle inner tube I suppose - yes that sounds right
... .I was thinking of possibly making something with bicyc-
le pump as well - I have a lot of threading stuff etc, but
not the M 14 x 1,25 thread I measure the spark plug to -
guess one possibly could work something out with thre-
ad inserts from some well supplied place to build a
spark-plug-hole-to-bicycle-pump adaptor
... .PS. I was using the saw to chop some nasty firewood bits
last spring - which could have caused unusual vibration
(with hindsight) - it was in connection with this the prob-
lems arrived - I have just a little hope that the inlet-black-
plastic-thing (including the little fuel-type-hose that com-
es with it) could have been a little dislocated or so after
that (although one could see nothing of that at an inspec-
tion by my eye) and that saw could work again after ass-
embly - replacing the mentioned hose - just having been
shaken back to right set-up, sort of ...
.
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
What is your opinion about pressure an vacuum? Is it enough if tested with vacuum or is it neccessary to test something with pressure too?
Plain vacuum pump/gauge is much cheaper but I hesitate to buy if I later needed pressure too.
Mityvac MV8510 would be great, but 86€ is quite lot of money for something that is needed rarely.
Plain vacuum pump/gauge is much cheaper but I hesitate to buy if I later needed pressure too.
Mityvac MV8510 would be great, but 86€ is quite lot of money for something that is needed rarely.
