346xp problems

[pantelis]

Yes thanks!

I suppose leaks can be at

1) inlet
2) cylinder foot
3) decompression valve
4) crank case halves (but this shouldn't happen, should it?)
5) crank shaft seals

Here the first two could readily be tested by soap water
I guess - thanks!

As for number 3 - I know that is not the fault!

As for number 4 - it should not happen ... .

And if just number 5 remains - which I guess cannot be rea-
dily tested by soap water - if it leaks - must that simply be the
culprit ?

Sorry for all the questions ... .

Edit: I just made a visual inspection of the cylinder foot gas-
ket - and it definitely was "wet" - especially on the lower side
(which I guess haven't had time to dry up as the upper side
- which was also just a liottle "wet" at one place) - that is not
correct I suppose - could be the culprit?

numbers 1,2,3,4,5 can tested with soapy water, a faster way deep all the saw to a box full of water and test it ( pressure test 7 psi )
number 5 seals must tested and with vacuum its more importand 7 mmhg
the saw maybe dont fail to pressure test but fail to vacuum
if fail to vacum must change the seals
put the carb in water and test it with pressure 7psi see if leak and from where
if its from the pump diaphragm its a reason that the saw react like this ( no good idle, e.t.c )

 

[palbin]

Thanks - "pump diaphragm" is in the carb isn't it - the
carb I have already swopped for a another used one -
givin slight improvement, but still same problem - I also
have new unused carb - so I can employ the new one to
be able to rule out carb problems completely I sort of fi-
gure (which I did in fact thought I had done already).

 

[pantelis]

Thanks - "pump diaphragm" is in the carb isn't it - the
carb I have already swopped for a another used one -
givin slight improvement, but still same problem - I also
have new unused carb - so I can employ the new one to
be able to rule out carb problems completely I sort of fi-
gure (which I did in fact thought I had done already).

Ok i am waiting the tests and the results

 

[palbin]

As for Mityvac vacuum/pressure tester - it seems that the
(less fine - from what one can figure out from prices etc)
MV8255 cost as much as the finer MV8510 shipped to
Sweden - so it is just as good to go for the MV8510.

I checked out a youtube film



were one can see how useful the Mityvac thing can be (and
also what pump and metering gaskets/diaphragms are ...).

Seems the guy on the youtube film has a Mityvac MV8510.
Costs around USD 100 shipped to Sweden ... .

One can also find Mityvac MV8500 kits which seems to incl-
ude both the Mityvac MV8510, a storage box, and a lot of
possibly useful plastic assecoires for about the same price

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MityVac-SIL...id=100033&rk=1&rkt=4&mehot=ag&sd=301305635488

But perhaps all these plastic is mainly for cars and not saws?

 

[palbin]

So I pressurtested my EL32 carb that came with the 346xp -
i hooked it to a bicycle pump at gave it 0,7 bar as suggested
in above yuotube-film - and there were NO AIRBUBBLES
from carb when submerged in water ... .

 

[palbin]

As far as the plug adapter, I took an old spark plug, knocked the electrode out from the bottom up ... .

I managed to make a spark plug hole adaptor/shim from an
old spark plug - that was certainly easier said than done - the
white stuff in spark plugs is definitely white cryptonite (which
explains why sparks plugs are so expensive ...) - virtually inpe-
netrable and uncuttable - barely smashable - way more sturdy
than I had expected ... . (Mayby this exercise is one of those
that are much easier at second attempt ... ?)

 

[tonil76]

Interesting project you have there palbin. I think I have to do something similar. Are you going to attach some connertor for hose to that?

 

[palbin]

Thanks for the encouragement and/or interest ... .

My plan is to fit a bicycle valve/car pump fit kind of
thing build by e.g., epoxy to the spark plug hole adap-
tor/shim ... see self explanatory picture below (lacking
the epoxy though) ...



This will be easy - and after that I can pressurize the cylin-
der etc with my bicycle pump - I will of course buy the
most expensive professional gear within short - do not mis-
understand me there - but it is good to do similar things
oneself before hand to get some basic understanding of
what is going on ... in my humble opinion ... .

Edit: I have a lot of plumbing stuff - so I am shure I also
have something that I can screw onto the car valve thread
to make it hose connectable ... . (Or otherwise I can make
it as I have a lot of threading stuff as well ... but that is a
lot of work ... I mean "can" is not the same thing as "really
being able to" .) I will buy some reasonable good gear
asap - perhaps the Mityvac thing ... will see ... .

 

[palbin]

Soo - I manufactured a spark plug hole adaptor from an old
NGK chain saw spark plug - the adaptor is (obviously) inten-
ded for usage in connection with pressurizing and vacuuming
cylinder and crancase interior etc ... .

It's lower end has a bicycle valve thread/fit - meaning one can
mount a bicycle "back-valve" there so that air does not go back-
wards (upwards/outwards?) - the upper end has a car valve
thread/fit which fits with a large manometer type bicycle pump
but also fits with the pressurizing hose seen on picture ... .

The manufacturing was more laboursome than expected, but
that is not seldom the case I suppose - at least at first trial ... .

 

[Boozer]

Very resourceful palbin! Enjoying this thread.
You'll have that 346 to your liking soon!

 

[palbin]

So I have assembled the saw now having it more or less ready
for pressure test by means of manometer bicycle pump an self
made assecoires ... .

*) I have not mounted carb and muffler/silencer - but it seems
to me that in my case (when they are not fitted anyway) it must
be much better to mount fitting (say 1/2 inch thick or so) cover-
ing "plates" (completed with an appropriate seal (made from
e.g., bulk seal material)) instead of mounting carb and muffler
- covering plates could be made from for example hard wood
oak with little effort (and appropriate M5 x 0,8 screws I have
plenty of ...)?? <<--

*) Also - if I check that saw doesn't leak air like crazy when pres-
surized - then I can really submerge it into water to check for le-
aks (with for example ignition stuff still mounted)?? <<--

I mean it will of course dry out eventually - and shouldn't be star-
ted in several days afterwards or so ... .

PS. The intake boot tightening ring is a disaster (in my point of
view) - very hard to remove - even harder to refit - if I take it off
again I will replace it with hose clamp ... .

I have found carburetor rebuild instructions at Zama web-pages
(needed for example for a couple of older small Sthils I have) and
complete parts lists for Husky saws with OEM number etc with
Husqvarna web-pages , so I feel much more helpless now than be-
fore ... .

 

[272super]

Actually, You did not need to break the white porcelain out but I see it worked out for you. If you knock it out,the electrode will slide out through it from the bottom up. With the porcelain intact you can slide a hose right over it or insert some sort of fitting inside the old electrode hole. Good job on the way you did it though.

 

[palbin]

I see - thanks - this porclean I would like to have
in my kitchen - as it seems very close to unbreak-
able ... .

I got two pictures from a Swedish guy - his kit
looks like this (excluding needs of any Mityvacs
etc with a fitting second hand manometer) - he
simply welded a house fit on top of the spark
plug - possibly preparing it as you did before
hand - but he has least removed the porclean
above the spark plug nut - still I think my build
is the best and most flexible - I can for exam-
ple easily screw a hose fit female thread with a
rubber seal on my build - then I have same as he
has mandatory all the time (not that I think that
I match his skills though ... ).




How does your kit look?

 

[palbin]

Still I wonder

*) must be better to manufacture ones own sturdy stop plates
for "sealing off" exhaust and inlet "manifold" instead of using
muffer and carb as sort of urgency solutions for that?

*) and it should be OK to submerge in water (assembled )
pressurized saw to check for leaks from crank case etc?

Sorry for all the questions ... ... .

 

[pantelis]

Still I wonder

*) must be better to manufacture ones own sturdy stop plates
for "sealing off" exhaust and inlet "manifold" instead of using
muffer and carb as sort of urgency solutions for that?

*) and it should be OK to submerge in water (assembled )
pressurized saw to check for leaks from crank case etc?

Sorry for all the questions ... ... .

put a piece of rubber between the carb and the intake boot
put a piece of rubber between the muffler and the cylinder
job done

 

[lone wolf]

Actually, You did not need to break the white porcelain out but I see it worked out for you. If you knock it out,the electrode will slide out through it from the bottom up. With the porcelain intact you can slide a hose right over it or insert some sort of fitting inside the old electrode hole. Good job on the way you did it though.

Now you tell me ! Just hit the electrode? What exactly needs to be done?

 

[lone wolf]

put a piece of rubber between the carb and the intake boot
put a piece of rubber between the muffler and the cylinder
job done

And metal plates.

 

[pantelis]

And metal plates.

yes you can, i just say a simple method

 

[pantelis]

Now you tell me ! Just hit the electrode? What exactly needs to be done?

have a faster method to put out the porcelan

 

[lone wolf]

have a faster method to put out the porcelan

Do tell friend