346xp problems

[tonil76]

That is nice project!

I think that model has suffered loose plastic intake clamp problems as well. That unit has it bit more than just loose..
Cheap part to replace anyway.

I put my 346 to one piece earlier and went to run it a little.. Worked nicely.

 

[palbin]

As for my 357xp fix up project ...

I seem to have a (used ) 46 millimeter original cylinder
and piston kit together with a new aftermarket 47 millim-
eter kit (with the new piston already mounted on the saw)
- the aftermarket kit has partially open channels (scaveng-
ing ducts?),

--->>> I think it must be intended for a 359 ???

- the original cylinder seems to be in perfect shape - very le-
an etc (also has "Good" written on it ) - the original piston
seems "fried" beyond repair with several scratches etc ... .

Guess I will see if I can get machine to work fine with after-
market cylinder/piston kit and if that happens purchase a
new OEM 357xp piston so I can use the original more pow-
erful cylinder ... .

I seem to have (a used ) original Walbro HDA191 carbure-
tor (which could require a rebuild I suppose) - together with
a new aftermarket carb of unknown brand - looking very mu-
ch like e.g., a Zama C3-EL32 (but is not a Zama), and which
strangely has a primer inlet (while saw lacks primer) - I have
already tested the aftermarket carb on 346xp, and it worked
... .

Guess I will try to make aftermarket carb work with saw first
and then rebuild original Walbro carb to use it instead if that
happens ... .

 

[palbin]

.....

I put my 346 to one piece earlier and went to run it a little.. Worked nicely.

Congratulations!

 

[tonil76]

I think you could take walbro apart, see if diaghrams and gaskets are ok and clean it up. It most likely is fine. That chinese carb Anacaba or somethin.. I have one too, don't think its as good.

And what comes to cylinder and piston. I think it would be ok to test with AM. With original cylinder buying Meteor piston might be option.
For example

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-M...866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27de8a6722

 

[palbin]

Thank you very much for the tip - another (perhaps wiser)
strategy for me could be to buy new 357xp piston directly
(like e.g., your suggestion) and leave aftermarket cylinder
kit "new" in order to possibly sell it (thus financing the pist-
on purchase ) ... .

 

[palbin]

I gave my newly fixed 346xp a new Sugihara blade and
chain to award it for having had so much patience with
my would be mechanic attempts ... .



However - this came much harder than expected as it
turned out the Sugihara blade had 0,5 millimeter dia-
meter or so too small holes for the bar bolts (studs?)
and that these holes were also 0,5 millimeter or so too
distant from bar bolt (stud) channel in blade to fit my
Husky - see pic 1 below (with original Husky blade to
the left and new Sugi bar to the right) - so I had to file
the Sugi blade a little - see pic 2 below (where the blad-
es has switched places) - afterwards I got the brilliant
idea to check blade codes - it was BX3T-8J42 - which
in fact seems to indicate that it is a Dolmar/Echo/Shin-
daiwa blade I have instead of a Husky small mount one
- see here

http://www.diatop.co.jp/files/tip2.pdf

but as the oil hole seems to sit exactly right it should
work fine now when filed to fit - I have bought the bla-
de from Sweden main Sugihara seller as Husky blade -
but I guess it looks so much like that (the differences
being so minute) that they can be confused at storage
etc ...

 

[palbin]

...

With original cylinder buying Meteor piston might be option. For example

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-M...866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27de8a6722

Orginal OEM 357xp piston costs 85 EUR - too much ... .

The piston in above advertisement costs 30-35 EUR ... much better ... .

Just from visual comparison that seems to be same piston as offered by
well-reputed Swedish pirate part seller for less than 20 EUR - HERE

http://www.skogsverktyg.se/Motordel...ett/Kolv-passar-till-Husqvarna-357::2906.html

Otherwise Husky dealers have no problems supplying all parts
to both "toasted" and "hit by tree" more than 10 year old 357xp
at quite reasonable prices - can for example get new 357xp OEM
sticker to put at "starting machine" outside for only 2 EUR ... .

 

[tonil76]

That site doesn't give much information from parts. Picture of piston seem to be same for every model. But I don't mean they can't be good and useable parts.

Meteors have good reputation here and partly due to that I have put them both my saws. But visually piston from 40$ chinese cylider I odered (and got badly scored due to lean tune..) kit looks fine too.


Btw. I got my spark plug pressure adapter today. Now my test kit is quite complete. For start at least.



Tested it to my 350. Leaks very badly. Rebuild needed again

 

[pantelis]

That site doesn't give much information from parts. Picture of piston seem to be same for every model. But I don't mean they can't be good and useable parts.

Meteors have good reputation here and partly due to that I have put them both my saws. But visually piston from 40$ chinese cylider I odered (and got badly scored due to lean tune..) kit looks fine too.


Btw. I got my spark plug pressure adapter today. Now my test kit is quite complete. For start at least.

View attachment 412868

Tested it to my 350. Leaks very badly. Rebuild needed again

I use the same for about 2 years now , no problem , dont forget the vacuums tests

 

[palbin]

Thanks for the information - I will buy the Meteor then ... .

Good luck with your 350 repair ... .

 

[pantelis]

Thanks for the information - I will buy the Meteor then ... .

Good luck with your 350 repair ... .

change the plastic tighter in the intake boot to the 350 with a metal , common problem leaks from this plastics

 

[palbin]

So - now I have bought it - 26 GBP = 350 SEK - the Meteor
357xp pirate piston that is ... .

 

[tonil76]

change the plastic tighter in the intake boot to the 350 with a metal , common problem leaks from this plastics

Got metal clamp allready. And new crank seals. But main leak is at cylinder adapter. I used some HT silicone there and I think it hasn't last fuel. There may be bad thread in adapter too and I'm not sure if I can use it anymore.

 

[palbin]

What is "cylinder adapter"?

(I have some strange kind of "plumbing" running on the
outside of the cylinder of my 357xp (project) - is that it?)

Or is it just the fit of the cylinder to the crank house?

Edit: I think I have figured out what it is now - it is some
sort of "distance" between crank house and (possibly shor-
ter than original pirate) cylinder to get appropriate height
of "stack" ... .

 

[pantelis]

Got metal clamp allready. And new crank seals. But main leak is at cylinder adapter. I used some HT silicone there and I think it hasn't last fuel. There may be bad thread in adapter too and I'm not sure if I can use it anymore.

picture if you can

 

[tonil76]

Picture of cylinder adapter. Part between crank case and cylinder.

 

[pantelis]

Picture of cylinder adapter. Part between crank case and cylinder.

View attachment 412876

yes use dirko , yamabond , hondabond, threebond, no problem with thems

 

[palbin]

If threads are gone - why don't rethread them M6
(instead of M5 as I suppose they originally were) -
just drill out the worn M5-threads with 5 mm drill
and rethread with M6-tap (and change bolts from
M5 to M6 )?

Well I am sure you know this already (if it is a good
recipe...) .

 

[tonil76]

I know possibility to rethread but haven't really ever done it. And don't have tools. I have to disassemble it someday and see how the threads are. Chinese adapter cost something like 9 euros but don't know the quality. Some cheap chinese parts are totaly crap but some are usable.

 

[palbin]

Before I got myself threading equipment I just went to
(for example) a plumbing store to borrow a plumbing
threading tap (BSP thread - not the most common th-
ing you find at supermarkets etc) - no problems - they
almost seemed to appreciate someone were asking for
such kind of stuff ... .