346xp problems

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I don't know how much cylinder heats. But some people use Threebond 1184 for same application and it is rated only 150 C /300F, so it it handles the heat should permatex hanlde too.

I have one intake boot (AM) somewhere. I might use it if I find it.
 
I have heard people say one should switch to a metal
clamp around inlet boot instead of orginal plastic one
(should one have an original plastic one ...).
 
It is gas resistant. But not gas with alcohol. But doens't matter to me, I don't use Normal gasoline anyway.
Well you will know when you try it like I said I use Hondabond it works. You can test the carb with pressure at the fuel fitting to see if it leaks too around 7 - 10 lbs. Should hold min 15 seconds or better.
 
Tomorrow I think. Permatex instruction says that minimum drying time is 4 h but after 24h it is totally dried.
After 4h it is almost middle of night so I continue building tomorrow anyway...
 
My saw seems to work fine now - I thought a liitle about
the little scratch I could find in the inlet boot part 503 86
63-02 and sort of found it hard to belive this could be the
culprit - at the same time I sort of added one "a little bit
superior" reaction I got from a Swedish guy who sort of
seemed to think he could fix my saw without parts - so I
assemled the saw agin and this time pressure test (with
bicycle pump and home made pressurizing kit as before)
gave perfect result - just one pump and then almost 1 bar
and no leeking at all - I could press decomp after perhaps
45 second and got a big "phuuuu ..." - so thereafter I ass-
embled saw and tried to start it - found it sounded strang-
ely silent - and didn't started - then I compared with other
functioning 346xp which did not sound silent like that at
all (of course - as I am well familiar with their sound) - so
I relized I had forgotten to make hole in home made exha-
ust gasket made from bulk gasket carpet :) - well, **** hap-
pens :) - this was at end of day light - so I took some food
and a beer and two more beers - then I felt strangely more
courageable and took off muffer and made hole in mentio-
ned gasket - and after that saw started in just 4 pulls or so
(though having been "petrolized" earlier at start attemps
with blocked muffer outlet) ... . And it idled steadily aetc
and all seemed fine ... .

SOO - what must have happened - as I have tried to refit in-
let boot once before with big leak as result - but without dis-
mantling it into its parts completely and cleaning the parts
etc - that must have been that the original problem was that
the inlet boot parts was ever so little dislocated relative each
other ... . (Which perhaps the above mentioned Swedish guy
(who reputedly has like 1000 saws or so) sort of knew about
... .)

Anyway - AN EASY FIX ... :) . Now I now it is not at all as
hard as it seems :) ... .
 
My saw seems to work fins now - I thought a liitle about
the little scratch I could find in the inlet boot part 503 86
63-02 and sort of found it hard to belive this could be the
culprit - at the same time I sort of added one "a little bit
superior" reaction I got from a Swedish guy who sort of
seemed to think he could fix my saw without parts - so I
assemled the saw agin and this time pressure test (with
bicycle pump and home made pressurizing kit as before)
gave perfect result - just one pump and then almost 1 bar
and no leeking at all - I could press decomp after perhaps
45 second and got a big "phuuuu ..." - so thereafter I ass-
embled saw and tried to start it - found it sounded strang-
ely silent - and didn't started - then I compared with other
functioning 346xp which did not sound silent like that at
all (of course - as I am well familiar with their sound) - so
I relized I had forgotten to make hole in home made exha-
ust gasket made from bulk gasket carpet :) - well, **** hap-
pens :) - this was at end of day light - so I took some food
and a beer and two more beers - then I felt strangely more
courageable and took off muffer and made hole in mentio-
ned gasket - and after that saw started in just 4 pulls or so
(though having been "petrolized" earlier at start attemps
with blocked muffer outlet) ... .

SOO - what must have happened - as I have tried to refit in-
let boot once before with big leak as result - but without dis-
mantling it into its parts completely and cleaning the parts
etc - that must have been that the original problem was that
the inlet boot parts was ever so little dislocated relative each
other ... . (Which perhaps the above mentioned Swedish guy
(who reputedly has like 1000 saws or so) sort of knew about
... .)

Anyway - AN EASY FIX ... :) . Now I now it is not at all as
hard as it seems :) ... .
Who is the guy Mange?
 
Yes - it is Mange - he lives not so far from me -
but I have never mer him!
 
Pressure seem to be hard to handle. It leaks from sparkplug at least since I don't have proper adaptor or even new sparkplug.
Still some bubbles came from intake area. Can't see where. I just wonder how much pressure intake boot have to handle anyway. During normal use I mean.

I test again if I get spark plug pressure adapter. 9 euros for oem adaptor. I think I buy one.
 
I checked several original Hva tool prices in Sweden -
ordered directly from official Husqvarna retailers via
web - prices seem to be extremely modest to me, e.g.,

503 84 40-02 - TRYCKTEST - 59kr
(= spark plug hole adaptor 6 EUR)

502 54 11-02 - TÄCKBRICKA GUMMI B - 34kr
(= rubber plate to cover inlet or exhaust 3,5 EUR)

502 54 17-01 - MOTHÅLL (FÖRGASARE) - 21kr
(= positioning tool carburator 2 EUR)

Things like screws and bolts seem to be quite pricey,
though ... .

It is stated in worshop manual how well engine is requ-
ired to hold pressure/vacuum - to much air leaking in
can fry egine (skuren motor) - very bad ---

Also, a half-inch plumbing gasket fits around the spark
plug to seal the spark plug hole ... .

DSC00889.JPG
 
Not bad prices. I have tried to find swedish stores to buy parts but haven't had good luck. I guess most saw shops don't have good internet sites.

Finnish prices seem mostly be very high. For example 503 86 98-71 (346xp oe cylinder compl.) in Finland 349,50 euros. At baileys 231 dollars (218 euros) . Seems unfair to me..
 
YES - OEM cylinder piston kits cost MILLIONS also in
Sweden ... .

Using my good karma mood and confidence right now
after having been able to fix my 346xp myself (more or
less at least :) ) I started to try to fix another saw - a
2003 Hva 357xp - that I bought for very little one year
ago with the thought that I should learn to screw work-
ing on it (Edit: screw screws and bolts I mean) - it lack-
ed chain and bar (but them I have loads of already) and
came with double cylinder/piston kits as well as double
carb kits - what I can see now immediately is that "inlet
boot frame" is damaged and lacks a bit of plastic - see
second picture

DSC00890.JPG
DSC00891.JPG
 
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