see the ring between the NGK R and the nut where the wrench go just cut this ring that hold the porcelan takes seconds with a dremmel, grinder, hack saw then the porcelan come out all together
346xp problems
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see the ring between the NGK R and the nut where the wrench go just cut this ring that hold the porcelan takes seconds with a dremmel, grinder, hack saw then the porcelan come out all together
272super
ArboristSite Operative
I used a longer plug like the one pictured a post earlier,except mine has a shorter threaded area. I used a rj18yc and rj13y champion. I unscrewed the tip with vise grip and it exposed an open hole where you could see the end of the electrode. Then cut off the curved grounding electrode. Then I tapped the electrode out from below. Given the internal electrode structure, some plugs may not work with this method, so the ceramic may have to be removed as well.
So - I had to file my newly home made spark plug adaptor for
like an hour with flat file as its top (bottom?) was to wide (?)
for the threads to "bite" and then with thread file as threads
were somewhat damaged - didn't want to rethread it by means
of forcing in into the spark plug hole, obviously ... .
Then I finally was able to pressurize cylinder/crank case (it sa-
ys one shall apply 0,8 bar by the way in workshop manual) -
and it was leaking like crazy - it comes from the inlet boot - I
took great pecausion to mount it correctly - and couldn't see
the slightest wrong with it before that from visual inspection -
but it is leaking like crazy as mentioned - one can affect the
leaking by sort of moving the rubber little sidewise/up-and-
down - so I simply have to order a new inlet boot - parts
537 43 88-01, 503 86 63-02, 544 45 29-01 and 544 32 51-01.
(The locking ring I don't want to see anymore
.) One good
thing with this is that I have found out both how to locate
parts/their numbers as well as how to order them directly on
the web - ... .)
And THANK YOU VERY MUCH THE KIND HELP ... .
like an hour with flat file as its top (bottom?) was to wide (?)
for the threads to "bite" and then with thread file as threads
were somewhat damaged - didn't want to rethread it by means
of forcing in into the spark plug hole, obviously ... .
Then I finally was able to pressurize cylinder/crank case (it sa-
ys one shall apply 0,8 bar by the way in workshop manual) -
and it was leaking like crazy - it comes from the inlet boot - I
took great pecausion to mount it correctly - and couldn't see
the slightest wrong with it before that from visual inspection -
but it is leaking like crazy as mentioned - one can affect the
leaking by sort of moving the rubber little sidewise/up-and-
down - so I simply have to order a new inlet boot - parts
537 43 88-01, 503 86 63-02, 544 45 29-01 and 544 32 51-01.
(The locking ring I don't want to see anymore
.) One goodthing with this is that I have found out both how to locate
parts/their numbers as well as how to order them directly on
the web
- ... .)And THANK YOU VERY MUCH THE KIND HELP
... . 
You look like a pro this is not your first rodeo is it? That is some good thinking there.So - I had to file my newly home made spark plug adaptor for
like an hour with flat file as its top (bottom?) was to wide (?)
for the threads to "bite" and then with thread file as threads
were somewhat damaged - didn't want to rethread it by means
of forcing in into the spark plug hole, obviously ... .
Then I finally was able to pressurize cylinder/crank case (it sa-
ys one shall apply 0,8 bar by the way in workshop manual) -
and it was leaking like crazy - it comes from the inlet boot - I
took great pecausion to mount it correctly - and couldn't see
the slightest wrong with it before that from visual inspection -
but it is leaking like crazy as mentioned - one can affect the
leaking by sort of moving the rubber little sidewise/up-and-
down - so I simply have to order a new inlet boot - parts
537 43 88-01, 503 86 63-02, 544 45 29-01 and 544 32 51-01.
(The locking ring I don't want to see anymore
thing with this is that I have found out both how to locate
parts/their numbers as well as how to order them directly on
the web
And THANK YOU VERY MUCH THE KIND HELP
View attachment 411254 View attachment 411252 View attachment 411251 View attachment 411253
Well it looks like you catch on fast.No - I am a math professor = professional window env-
elope licker - unfortunately
some "real world skills" though ... .
Thanks agin for your help ... .
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
Just got my vacuum/pressure pump. Now I would like to now how much vacuum and how long time is ok?
Service manual says 0.8 bar pressure, but my hose connected to impulse line doesn't seem to hanlde that very well.
Service manual says 0.8 bar pressure, but my hose connected to impulse line doesn't seem to hanlde that very well.
sent picture
Yes - I suppose hoses and moderate pressure is often no
major problem - but hoses and moderate vacuum could
be - vaccum could sort of suffocate hoses I reckon - have
sort of thought abut this a little "in advance" - not having
any vacuum equipment availble yet ... .
major problem - but hoses and moderate vacuum could
be - vaccum could sort of suffocate hoses I reckon - have
sort of thought abut this a little "in advance" - not having
any vacuum equipment availble yet ... .
vacuum is more importand than the pressure is , saw must hold vacuum , again 7 psi
Yes thanks - "sneak air" is about lack of tightness inwards
(vacuum test) instead of outwards (pressure test) I suppo-
se ... . That is it, or?
Still, pressure is easier to create for the amateur than vacu-
um (I figure), so why not try pressure first ?
(vacuum test) instead of outwards (pressure test) I suppo-
se ... . That is it, or?
Still, pressure is easier to create for the amateur than vacu-
um (I figure), so why not try pressure first
?the pressure give you the leaks , the vacuum gives you if the seal leaps fiting good to the shaft , something that you can not test with soapy water , you just put the pump in vacuum and see the needle if the needle stay its ok if fall you have vacuum problems , the same as the presure but in vacuum, the piston up - down create vacuum to the all system.Yes thanks - "sneak air" is about lack of tightness inwards
(vacuum test) instead of outwards (pressure test) I suppo-
se ... . That is it, or?
Still, pressure is easier to create for the amateur than vacu-
um (I figure), so why not try pressure first
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
Ok. How long this should stay?
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
Seem that the saw keeps vacuum better than pressure. 0.5 bar vacuum dropped (or rise) to 0.45 in ten minutes but 0.5 bar pressure to 0.35 in a minute.
I think I managed to attach a 346xp workshop manual
as a pdf-file below (in case you didn't have one already)
- there you can read about how fast vacuum and press-
ure should disapear - as I understand the "general ide-
as" in this worshop manual work also for other Hva saws.
as a pdf-file below (in case you didn't have one already)
- there you can read about how fast vacuum and press-
ure should disapear - as I understand the "general ide-
as" in this worshop manual work also for other Hva saws.
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
I have one service manual but there is no mention of vacuum only presure test. I downloaded yours when our internet connection restores. Now I use 256k connection shared from phone...
It must pass both to run good. What is your specific problem I can help you with now?
I just found the error on my saw - I think - look here at 346xp
inlet boot part 503 86 63-02 - that must clearly be the most im-
portant part of that boot (together with the impulse hose)
One can see already at first picture that there seems to be a little
crack at the plastic "wart" (admittely thogh after myself having
picked a little at it for investigation and photoing), and at second
picture it is quite clear ... .
This must be it - as very careful inspection cannot reveal anything
other that can fail ... .
inlet boot part 503 86 63-02 - that must clearly be the most im-
portant part of that boot (together with the impulse hose)
One can see already at first picture that there seems to be a little
crack at the plastic "wart" (admittely thogh after myself having
picked a little at it for investigation and photoing), and at second
picture it is quite clear ... .
This must be it - as very careful inspection cannot reveal anything
other that can fail ... .
tonil76
ArboristSite Operative
I tested with soap warter and small bubbles came from base gasket ans park plug and bigger ones came form intake boot area, but couln't see where. I had yellow oregon fuel line connected between pressure pump and impulse hose connector.Don't know if that leaked too.
I thought I might take cylinder off and put some gasket maker to base gasket area and propably intake boot too.
I thought I might take cylinder off and put some gasket maker to base gasket area and propably intake boot too.
Dont use the sealer on the boot buy a new boot you can use it on the gasket . Yuo need the proper sealer Hondabond or Yamabond is what I have used and it works. Dont use silicone!
