346XP too much saw for a homeowner? or 350/353 good enough?

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magbarn

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Sorry to keep bugging guys, but this forum seems the highest number of experienced people. :greenchainsaw: I've been involved between echo/husky 350 for awhile now but now I want a saw that will last for a long time. I know the 346xp is a much faster and better built saw than the 350. Is it worth the extra $150 for the 346? Will it last 2x as long with proper care?
 
I'd say it's worth the extra money. It's a much better saw than the 350 or even 353 IMO.

It will certainly have better longevity than the 350.
 
unless you are doing a ton of cutting the 350 will hold up well.
if your like most guys,150.00 more for a lighter,better saw...seems like a no-brainer in the long run.
 
Is the guy an experienced saw user? 346XP is a bit much for a first timer.

Actually I would think a 346 would be an idea saw for a first timer, provided they had all the PPE. It's powerful without being too heavy but certainly not overpowered for a first timer.
 
I really like my 346XP NE. :) I would recommend it in a heart beat. Remember that saws are going to be changing in 2010 due to the EPA. You might want to nab a 372XP to go with the 346XP NE while you can. Would make a terrific combo. :cheers:
 
Sorry to keep bugging guys, but this forum seems the highest number of experienced people. :greenchainsaw: I've been involved between echo/husky 350 for awhile now but now I want a saw that will last for a long time. I know the 346xp is a much faster and better built saw than the 350. Is it worth the extra $150 for the 346? Will it last 2x as long with proper care?

The 350 and 353 are similar in performance, but the 353 has magnesium cases rather than plastic:censored: . For the extra $$ the 353 would be my choice between those.

The 346xp is similar to the 353 but has different piston and cylinder, turns more revs, makes more power. This is another step up if you can justify the $$ for more performance.:chainsaw:

Considering the price of the Echo 520, I think either the Husqvarna 353 or 346xp to be better deals. The Echo has magnesium cases as well, and seems to have a devoted following.

Another alternative to consider is the Makita DCS540. These can be bought on Ebay, "refurbished with 1 year guarantee" for $222 + $20 shipping. These are the Dolmar 540s in Makita blue. They have 54cc, compression release, magnesium cases, 3.4hp. I have the smaller DCS401(39cc) and love it! Its light, smooth, and well made.:spam:

Oh, yeah, I have a 346xp 50cc version with non catalytic muffler, and it runs and cuts great. Its smooth, and revs like crazy, and cuts like a larger displacement saw.:chainsawguy:

The Dolmar 5100s is the other "beast" in the 50cc class, and a little less $$ than the 346xp.

How much performance do YOU need? How big of wood, hardwood or softwood? How much do you want to spend? For longevity, I would suggest avoiding the plastic-cased saws.
 
Cutting mostly around 12-20 inch doug fir. Most of the trees are small at my big bear property. Ok guys, I guess I'm just going to let the wifey spend the Home Cheapo/BLowe's gift cards on herself and just spend some hard cash at the dealer for the 346XP. I want a saw to last me awhile as I don't want to be playing with a 4 cycle, 50cc, 2HP, 15lbs, 8000 max rpm, wet sump saw in 2012 when my consumer saw goes dead.
 
Gobs of power vs. the 350, and explosive acceleration. It can bite you pretty quick if you don't know what you are doing.

Kind of like having your kid learn to drive with a HEMI instead of a 4 cylinder.

well i disagree, dull knives are more dangerous than sharp ones....

if a person has never used a saw and goes off by themselves and has a go, it wont matter the saw, but how they approach it....

oh and please dont compare then using a modded 660 to a 142 husky, because we are talking similar saws in this case.

Serg
 
The 346 has a narrow powerband, and must be kept in it's sweet spot while cutting. I would go with the 353, it had a broader powerband. Go with an 18" or 20" bar. That's fine in (12-20 inch doug fir) If you maintain the saw you get, it will last you a lifetime. I have never run a 350, so I can not comment. Also, buy some chainsaw chaps, and a helmet with a face screen and wear them!

Let us know what you get.
 
The 346 has a narrow powerband, and must be kept in it's sweet spot while cutting.

That's not quite as true with the new edition 346, the powerband on the new saw is much wider than the old 346.

Compared to a 353 though I can't tell you since I haven't run one.
 
I'm a newbie so take with a grain of salt.

I've got a Dolmar 5100s that is my first saw. I believe that it is very comparable to the 346xp. I was a little worried that it might be too much saw for me based on my experience (not my need). No worries now it's light, easy to handle, and no bad manners. It sounds like you have some experience with saws so I think you'll have no problem with it and will probably appreciate the high performance and light weight even more coming from other lesser saws.

My philosophy is it is better to have more than you need than not enough.

Just my $.02 worth,
LouieIV :cheers:
 
Sorry to keep bugging guys, but this forum seems the highest number of experienced people. :greenchainsaw: I've been involved between echo/husky 350 for awhile now but now I want a saw that will last for a long time. I know the 346xp is a much faster and better built saw than the 350. Is it worth the extra $150 for the 346? Will it last 2x as long with proper care?

A 346 is simply a 353 that's been hot-rodded, very nice saw from what I understand.

I've got a 353 -- LOVE that saw. When my arms are too worn out from the 372 the weight really comes into play. Cuts like crazy too, it's just the 372 in big wood is much, much faster.

Do a muffler mod to the 353 and get rid of the cat muffler ,tune it right and you won't be sorry.....

And pick up a 372 before they are gone. That saw don't need no steenking mods!

............I still think I NEED a 346 but that Father's Day present is just NOT going to show up this year............[grin]
 
I've been reading the threads on the non-cat muffler. I see it selling online at Baileys for a pretty good price. I assume when you put a less restrictive muffler on the engine is going to end up running lean. I would guess then I would probably have to remove the the cap limiters and mod them right?
 
I've been reading the threads on the non-cat muffler. I see it selling online at Baileys for a pretty good price. I assume when you put a less restrictive muffler on the engine is going to end up running lean. I would guess then I would probably have to remove the the cap limiters and mod them right?

It seems most guys do. I put a non-CAT muff on my 2152 but haven't did the caps yet. It is running fine at the current temps. Your elevation would also have some effects.
 
I've been reading the threads on the non-cat muffler. I see it selling online at Baileys for a pretty good price. I assume when you put a less restrictive muffler on the engine is going to end up running lean. I would guess then I would probably have to remove the the cap limiters and mod them right?

It may not flow any more freely, but will eliminate the CAT that is the cause of the extra heat. A tach would tell the story as to whether the carb needed adjusting beyond the limiters.
 
...and explosive acceleration.

I can't make the comparison between the 350 and the 346, because I've never run the 350.

But I will echo what Spike said about the 346 above. My 2153* is a frickin' joy to use, cause as soon as you hit the throttle, it's go time. It's one of those instantaneous things...like turning on a light switch. One second it's burbling comfortably at idle, then all the sudden you're holding 14,000 rpm in your hands, and you don't remember anything in between. (Same with the 2171, by the way.)

That may sound like so little...but it puts a smile on my face everytime.

* For magbarn, this is the Jonsered version of the 346. Same saw but with a different handlebar. (And better looking!)
 
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