365 Will not Idle or adjust out right

[Jtheo]

I have a used 365 that has been running perfect.

The oil pump went out and I installed a new one today. Put the saw back together and the chain will not stop turning, the saw goes dead, and there is no adjusting the carb.

The carb is new, so I do not suspect a problem with it.

One odd thing, the saw blew out a cloud of blue smoke a good 6 to 8 ft wide when it first started.

Can bar oil get to the carb through the tank vent?

This sounds like an air leak to me, and I will have to get it tested at my dealer, but what do some of you think about the problem?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Banacanin]

I have a used 365 that has been running perfect.

The oil pump went out and I installed a new one today. Put the saw back together and the chain will not stop turning, the saw goes dead, and there is no adjusting the carb.

The carb is new, so I do not suspect a problem with it.

One odd thing, the saw blew out a cloud of blue smoke a good 6 to 8 ft wide when it first started.

Can bar oil get to the carb through the tank vent?

This sounds like an air leak to me, and I will have to get it tested at my dealer, but what do some of you think about the problem?

Thanks for any help.

I'm sorry but is sounds like several things some of which (like the bar that keeps turning) are completely unrelated. Perhaps some of the problems are related to an air leak or bad mix. When the weather keeps going up and down condensation can build in the gas stations fuel tanks- maybe you are the guy with bad luck who got stuck with some of it.

 

[angelo c]

There is a leak somewhere. check the usual suspects, Impluse, bearings, carb intakes ect.

 

[Mastermind]

There is a leak somewhere. check the usual suspects, Impluse, bearings, carb intakes ect.

:agree2: Time for the old vacuum tester...

 

[Jtheo]

:agree2: Time for the old vacuum tester...

Yeah, I will take it to the dealer tomorrow. I don't have the tools to check it myself.

Heck of a note though, it runs perfect, I replaced the oil pump, and then when I start it up to see if the oil pump is working, and a big cloud of blue smoke and won't idle or run smooth.

I still wonder how all the oil got in the carb or cylinder???

 

[MaddBomber]

I wouldn't worry much about the cloud of smoke.... unless it is constant. When the saw dies, how many times are you pulling it to restart it? One or two pulls can load the muffler.... imagine 5 or 6.

Definately get a vac test done..... Making your own kit is fairly simple, and there is plenty here. I just made one for about 20 bucks, and a few hours of figuring it out... Now I could do one in 30 minutes....... Pressure testers are even easier to make.

 

[pgg]

When there's bar oil in the fuel, the saw will run like a sick pig, sounds to me that's all it is, a perfectly running saw doesn't mysteriously turn bad because of a new oil pump, I'm picking somehow, bar oil got into the fuel tank by accident

 

[mountainlake]

Saws can leak oil and air between the case halfs. Maybe a too long screw in the wrong place could have cracked the case. Steve

 

[Saw Dr.]

There is an o-ring over on the oil pump side on the crank or a bushing. I have not had one of those apart in a bit, so I cannot remember how it goes. I'm betting that o-ring is either missing, or messed up. I'm headed to the shop now. More definitave results later.

 

[Mastermind]

I thinking something could have happened to the crank seal that's beside that new oil pump causing oil, assembly lube to get in there, I don't know how that one is built for sure, I'm just thinking out loud here...

 

[Saw Dr.]

I'm not sure if you took that bushing out of the crank or not, but just by removing the oil pump drive, you have "unloaded" that o-ring. It is shown in the IPL with the crank group. Part #503 26 30-19. It seals the inner opening of the bushing to the crank, and the crank seal seals the outer edge of the bushing. I would order a new one of those o-rings, disassemble the oil pump again and clean everything well. re-install with a light coat of 2-stroke oil, and you'll be back in business.

 

[Jtheo]

I'm not sure if you took that bushing out of the crank or not, but just by removing the oil pump drive, you have "unloaded" that o-ring. It is shown in the IPL with the crank group. Part #503 26 30-19. It seals the inner opening of the bushing to the crank, and the crank seal seals the outer edge of the bushing. I would order a new one of those o-rings, disassemble the oil pump again and clean everything well. re-install with a light coat of 2-stroke oil, and you'll be back in business.

Thank you. This info is much appreciated.