flywheel has a single magneto styled coil so unless the guy who sold it to me used a non stock flywheel I can't see how the timing would be off other than shearing the keyway.
372xp starting issues
- Thread starter toolfreak
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
flywheel has a single magneto styled coil so unless the guy who sold it to me used a non stock flywheel I can't see how the timing would be off other than shearing the keyway.
Laugh away at this one...I have been building time attack cars (including custom tube frames and engines/suspensions) since I first got over here in 86 usually Mazda rotaries or subarus flat fours (i love strange engines) so I actually have a complete shop to include tig welder, sandblast cabinet, impacts, drill press blah blah blah.
I have just never messed with a 2 stroke engine before. I checked the spark before I came on the forum with this question, but was not sure how much I should see (probably more than I am seeing) perfect example I would never of thought of flipping the case to drain it if it was flooded, though it makes perfect sense as the air fuel/oil mix goes through the crankcase to lube the bearings and if the carb ahs a bad needle valve (do these ones have a needle valve?) it would keep poring fuel in until the case was full.
so I really appreciate you two following this and giving suggestions, as I am sure with a little guidance from you two we can figure this out.
It just pisses me off because this was exactly what I was trying to avoidI have two many time consuming things and I bought this saw as it was "pro level" and rebuilt. well rebuilders can always make mistakes, but I was hoping that what I paid for it would alleviate that concern and that I would not have to fark with it for a while. I considered buying a brand new one, but the fact that they have a flashable ecu worried me as getting service over here would be impossible, even though I now know from the forum that they do have dealers over here, I have since found out they only import certain models and theses are slightly modded so that it is obvious that they are the japan versions, and they do not service or sell parts for privately imported items.
ahh never judge a book by its cover, or a wolf in a sheeps skin on this 1
i was going to go into details with the flywheel, gap and correct plug details but thought
will confuse you and send you into a deep dark pit
i think you will get hang of this real quick and we'll be learnin stuffs from you soon lol
wtf USD 2,200 for 560XP ?
is it for 1 or 2 units ?
i can ship a new 372xp for less than USD 1,000
or a big echo and a used top handle for that money LOL
that is for one unit. You sell new? How much for a new 50 or 60 cc saw PHO something without the auto tune unless they have the issues with it fixed....
exactly the problem is no parts or service and they are subtly different from the stateside models...exactly what I am not sure, but being that the newer ones are the autotune with a flashable ECU I am betting the tune is purposefully different so that when a japanese dealer plugs into the saw he will instantly know that it was not sold in japan, and therefore will not service it (or sell you parts)
thats why I opted for the used 372 rebuilt from the states, I wanted a saw I could use for a couple of years and slowly get into.
hoping to get this thing up in the next week as the wood cutters club I joined has found some more primo oak for free...we just need to cut it. I am tired of trying to keep up with my japanese counterparts with the poulan, its great for GP trimming, and honestly I have not had a single problem with it it has been a champ so much so that I was surprised at the number of bad reviews it got on amazon and other online merchants..
yup, we are checking for sheared key/way.
I followed a thread a few weeks ago where "all the big kahunas" were called on to figure one out and it turned out to be a "demagnetized" flywheel...never saw that before.
so we gots to check the spark and strength of spark. can you snap a photo of the flywheel closeup by the crank ?
we like pics !!!
ArthurB
ArboristSite Member
Notice that the Husky is selling two 327XPs in the US
372XP Torque and the 327XP G
Here it was always just marketed as the 327XP, but has been unavailable for some time
What's the difference between the two US models?
372XP Torque and the 327XP G
Here it was always just marketed as the 327XP, but has been unavailable for some time
What's the difference between the two US models?
"G" is heated handles ?
yes i ship with new in box right out from my dealers
if that 372 works out for you, it might be probably enough for your use
im assuming your're occasional user who doesnt get into big wood often ?
you mentioned 50~60cc saw, i would not recommend 50~60cc saw if you have the 372
372 will just do the job better and it isnt that much heavy, unless if you're getting the 60cc saw
to get rid of the 372 and get a 90cc saw which will make alot sense,
among 50~ 60cc that i will recommend will be 353, 365 or 61
61 is the heaviest among them, not much of a power to weight ratio saw but will almost certainly last you
till the end for you if taken care right, its the most dependable and robustly saw out of the 3
Good Morning All,
got nothing planned for work to day, so I might as well pull the flywheel. like I said last night i do not have a gear puller that small, tapping is out of the question with those bearings even with a deadblow so looks like I need to make a puller. give me a few minutes and I will get back to you all.
Ken
got nothing planned for work to day, so I might as well pull the flywheel. like I said last night i do not have a gear puller that small, tapping is out of the question with those bearings even with a deadblow so looks like I need to make a puller. give me a few minutes and I will get back to you all.
Ken
No need...soak it in PB blaster of your choice. Loosen the retaining nut. Tighten it back to "flush" crank end.
Hold the saw off the table BY THE Fins of the flywheel and rap the nut. Much easier with a spare set of hands but it will come free. If stubborn, a little heat always helps loosen nuts.
Of course all we need to do is check for key way damage before we remove it in any case. Did you confirm good spark yet ?
We need pics....
got the flywheel off....Who in their right mind casts a key for a keyway into a flywheel? FWIW the key is intact, though methinks a broach loaded into my press would make a proper keyway in about 5 minutes
home shop
home shop
at this point I am guessing the spark is not strong enough that coil does not look like the one I ordered last night. the one I ordered was blue in color.
as you can see space is at a premium here in japan, in those photos their is a Ingersoll 60 gallon compressor, a blast cabinet, a miller tig a thermal arc plasma, a no name brand mig, two large roll arounds about 4 spare engines for my track car a drill press and other assorted items, that is in a 10 x 20 space.
I bought my place at fuji specifically so I can build a full size 30 x 40 garage to put my lift in...it sits out side in the rain and salt air
sorry meant 10 x 20 space
I bought my place at fuji specifically so I can build a full size 30 x 40 garage to put my lift in...it sits out side in the rain and salt air
sorry meant 10 x 20 space
Nice shop !!!got the flywheel off....Who in their right mind casts a key for a keyway into a flywheel? FWIW the key is intact, though methinks a broach loaded into my press would make a proper keyway in about 5 minutes
home shopView attachment 521240 View attachment 521241
like I told Robin, I have been building time attack cars for racing (myself & a few friends) for over 30 years, but 2 stroke engines are just not an area I have delved into until this. I am guessing the learning curve can be steep in regards to power building, though it appears to me that intake tract porting and exhaust porting in regards to port opening timing and overlap are probably the key.
fortunately for me though i am addicted to tinkering and prefer quality when it comes to equipment I am not looking to build a race saw or anything like that. I just want a reliable saw that I can cut through a 20" or 30" tree without major hiccups.
you might want to try to let the coil get a little closer to the flywheel and see if it makes a difference
try folding newspaper into 3 or 4 layer and use that as a guide to set the gap
see if it works, sometimes if the plug wire insulation is opened somewhere along the way from coil to plug
it can allow the spark to "jump" and ground to closest metal contact, but you wont see any spark at all in this case
just as a info
try folding newspaper into 3 or 4 layer and use that as a guide to set the gap
see if it works, sometimes if the plug wire insulation is opened somewhere along the way from coil to plug
it can allow the spark to "jump" and ground to closest metal contact, but you wont see any spark at all in this case
just as a info
just how close can you get these? as long as it does not hit? will it do damage it like a mag pickup for electronic ignition? (too close on one of those saturates the coil early leading to misfires)
yes as long as it doesnt hit but
it could start hitting under load or at high rpm
just want to see if it fires or not so we can know if its actually the coil
it could start hitting under load or at high rpm
just want to see if it fires or not so we can know if its actually the coil
