455 won't run

[fearofpavement]

Forget the WD-40, PB Blaster and other big box store "penetrants" and find you a source for "Kroil" "the oil that creeps", made by the KANO corp, I get mine thru Midway USA.com guns mithing supply. It's not cheap but works about 100 times better than anything else I've ever tried. Imho your issues are prolly going to run deeper than stuck rings.

I have tried about every kind of lubricant and penetrant available including Kroil and Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, WD-40 and all its generic imitations, Liquid Wrench, Nuts Off, ACF-50, Corrosion-X, Boeshield, Slick 50, Mouse Milk, LPS 1,2 and 3 and probably a dozen others.

My opinion is that they all work for certain things and none of them has amazed me. I use WD-40 more than any of the others because it is cheap and works for what I use it for. It is NOT a good lubricant other than in the short term. I use it first and then follow it up with something with more lubricity. For loosening up a sticky ring, just about anything in the above list would work except the Boeshield and LPS 3 as they are more of a metal protector than a penetrant. Kerosene mixed with a bit of motor oil is effective as well.

Everyone has their own "special" medicine for corrosion and stuck things. I'm still trying to find mine.

 

[laynes69]

I'm going to tear it down. I checked the carb, cleaned everything and put it together. I soaked the piston and tried to push the ring and nothing. My little 025 pulls much harder, there's no compression. I was going to take it in, but if it's not too bad to breakdown I will go ahead myself. It looks like parts aren't bad. Thanks for the help.

 

[4xrpm4x]

Sounds like a good plan. Pulling the cylinder isn't to involved. Post up what you find.

 

[laynes69]

After getting a 200 dollar labor quote for a teardown and repair, I decided to do it myself. Had it apart in about 1/2 hour, was much easier than I thought. The ring wouldn't budge, carbon had it stuck. I ended up damaging the ring which is fine, I cleaned the piston and land up for a new ring. Theres no damage to the cylinder or piston. First question where can I get a ring cheap along with the crank seals, and how do I prevent this again? I've heard the x-torq runs cool on one side which is what I seen. What mix is recommended? I don't want to keep doing this. Thanks.

 

[dboyd351]

After getting a 200 dollar labor quote for a teardown and repair, I decided to do it myself. Had it apart in about 1/2 hour, was much easier than I thought. The ring wouldn't budge, carbon had it stuck. I ended up damaging the ring which is fine, I cleaned the piston and land up for a new ring. Theres no damage to the cylinder or piston. First question where can I get a ring cheap along with the crank seals, and how do I prevent this again? I've heard the x-torq runs cool on one side which is what I seen. What mix is recommended? I don't want to keep doing this. Thanks.

There is a guy on ebay named something like Dandrikrop that sells rings for just about anything. I'd just Google "Husqvarna 455 crankcase seals" for those.

 

[Shife]

I did the Kroil thing for a long time - it was hard to get and expensive, and I eventually stopped bothering. I've found that if penetrating oil is gonna help, then Liquid Wrench works just as well. I even read some attempt to quantify that once (wish I had the link), and it pretty much confirmed that. Kroil is good, but not worth the hassle IMO.

There's only so much you can do with penetrating oil, although this would be a good job for it. Give it some time to do it's work.

I prefer Deep Creep (aerosol seafoam) for breaking down carbon. Most auto parts stores carry it now. I use it to decarb the 2 stroke outboard on my fishing boat and it is an excellent penetrating lube. I wont even use WD40 as a water displacer (its intended use). WD40 became outdated junk long before I was born.

 

[Shife]

After getting a 200 dollar labor quote for a teardown and repair, I decided to do it myself. Had it apart in about 1/2 hour, was much easier than I thought. The ring wouldn't budge, carbon had it stuck. I ended up damaging the ring which is fine, I cleaned the piston and land up for a new ring. Theres no damage to the cylinder or piston. First question where can I get a ring cheap along with the crank seals, and how do I prevent this again? I've heard the x-torq runs cool on one side which is what I seen. What mix is recommended? I don't want to keep doing this. Thanks.

To prevent it you could do a periodic decarb with Deep Creep. Follow the instructions on the can.

 

[hamish]

Your mix should be 50:1 and nothing else with Stihl of Husky oil. Most likely since new your saw has never had the carb adjusted, and with x-torq saws it is vital that the engine be very warm in order to adjust the carb, I mean running for a good 10min.

Fuel handling and storage also plays a big part in stuck rings, but hey be gratefull its only a stuck ring, and quick remover, clean, reassemble and your good to go.

 

[Stihl Rules]

Use Stihl ultra mix it has to be great it gives you a longer warrenty

 

[otisjr]

I agree with Shife, Deep Creep by Seafoam freed the ring in my 510 Dolmar and several weed
eaters. the owner of a chainsaw shop told me about it.