660 has problems clearing noodles....

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rngrchad

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Hi all. My best friend's new 660 is having issues with noodling pieces of firewood. It does not eject the sawchips(noodles) very well at all, and they load up inside the clutch cover making progress rather slow. I noticed the stock stihl aluminum chain catch looks to be the culprit. Is is pretty common to remove that aluminum chain catch and place a typical rubber/plastic one onto the saw dawg? My 390xp spanked the snot out of this 660. The husky is noodling 2 to 1 rounds faster simply because it's superior at discharging long noodles. I'm trying to get his running right along side of my husky.
Thanks.
-Chad
 
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You have to remember that Stihl people are not concerned with cutting speed. They're concerned with having a person close by to take all the extra money from them. :)
 
You have to remember that Stihl people are not concerned with cutting speed. They're concerned with having a person close by to take all the extra money from them. :)

I kind of thought my wording choice in that post would turn this thread into a saw-war. That wasn't my intent but ah well. Let the anarchy ensue::hmm3grin2orange:
 
I kind of thought my wording choice in that post would turn this thread into a saw-war. That wasn't my intent but ah well. Let the anarchy ensue::hmm3grin2orange:


Oh yeah, I like the theme song... reminds me of a neighbor we had while I was growing up...
 
Oh yeah, I like the theme song... reminds me of a neighbor we had while I was growing up...

Kinda reminds me of me sometimes lol. I about died when I saw a Husky in the video! I got into The Corb Lund band when I lived in Glacier Washington, and have been hooked ever since....such catchy working man's country music!
 
PNW clutch cover? Havent seen one, can't get them here. But read that they are designed for better chip clearance. Maybe it will clear the noodles ok.

Ordered one from an AS member, partnumber: 1122 648 0401.

Maybe this will help, other members will know it better because of using them.

Lex
 
A 660 is a pretty good noodle cutter (better than average), especially as compared to a 395.

Compare Stihls and Huskies underneath and you'll see the Stihls are generally more open below the clutch cover.

Good noodle clearing generally requires some practice, paying attention to the chip stream to PREVENT it from plugging.

Removing the catcher roller does help, but makes the saw less all purpose. Sharp skip (preferably square) helps, along with being aware of the shaving stream.

Ironically, even though the 7900 is the most restricted chip flow under the clutch cover than any saw I've seen (optimized for chips), after some technique adjustment it is the best noodler of any saw I've tried.

Since most of my cuts are noodling cuts (side grain), I have one 7900 dedicated for noodling at any time. 28 inch bar square skip, and I remove the little chain catcher (not recommending it....). Incredible noodle cutter.

By my 066 also does a fine job noodling....It does have the taller side cover (full wrap), but I am not sure a shorter cover would make any difference for noodling. Haven't tried one.
 
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If any saw has wrap handles, you can hold it unside down and blow the chips away from you. No clogging, no problem.
 
If any saw has wrap handles, you can hold it unside down and blow the chips away from you. No clogging, no problem.

I tried this after you posted it a while back, and it did clear well (throws the chips away). I only tried it a few times, but I wasn't comfortable as I felt more exposed.


A compromise is to do that same cut with the top of the bar but go horizontally left to right. Feels safer to me than totally upside down, altlhough with big wood may need a wedge just before the end of the cut.

Both ways sure throw shavings a long way!
 
PNW clutch cover? Havent seen one, can't get them here. But read that they are designed for better chip clearance. Maybe it will clear the noodles ok.

Ordered one from an AS member, partnumber: 1122 648 0401.

Maybe this will help, other members will know it better because of using them.

Lex

I order the PNW side covers from Madsen's.
 
I tried this after you posted it a while back, and it did clear well (throws the chips away). I only tried it a few times, but I wasn't comfortable as I felt more exposed.


A compromise is to do that same cut with the top of the bar but go horizontally left to right. Feels safer to me than totally upside down, altlhough with big wood may need a wedge just before the end of the cut.

Both ways sure throw shavings a long way![/QUOTE Good idea you have, sounds safer.
 
A few hi lights from a quick scan of a 'noodling' search.

To help prevent your saw chip chute from clogging while ripping don't "dog up tight" to the wood with your bumper spikes -it should help. But from what I've read of your posts you really know what your stuff, so you may have already known that. At least I made myself feel better thinking I may have helped someone out a little.

Rip safe :cool:

Uhuh. Another method is to increase the angle of the cut. That shortens up the shavings.

Harry K

+1

Gotta agree. with my 7900 and a fresh square ground on a 24 or 28inch bar and I feel like a noodle god. Pay attention to the flow of shavings and watch what stops them and don't do that. I cut a truckload of them in the last two days working a a big madrone. The square grind is the perfect shape for noodles, just like a dado plane.

In fact I was pulling piles and piles of noodles yesterday with my 066 and a 36 inch totally buried (literally)in the log (square ground). It's amazing how big the piles get. Another thing to watch for is as you start to reach the ground with your saw, stop and clear the chips away real quick on the ground below. Once you block the flow below the saw you are more likely to plug. Need chip velocity!

Any sharp chain will do okay, square ground only better. I have been cutting serious noodles for a number of years and only in 2006 started running square ground.

Like folks said. Round on side, prefereably off the ground on a block. Start roughly horizontal, with lots of power going but don't let the saw feed too quick at first until the chip flow is going. Most folks I see go too fast right at first and get in trouble early. Watching the chip flow, let the tip drop just a little, feeling for the sweet spot where the wood feels a little spongy. I sometimes adjust throttle a little at first until the saw hits the sweet angle, then slowly but confidently let the saw self feed down the wood at full speed. If you see shaving start getting thrown out the top of the bar, let up the pressure and make a slight angle adjustment. Stop and clear the shavings if you have to. Each time you stop cutting or finish a cut let the chain spin a couple a second or two to clear before you get off the throttle all the way.

Also when in dirty wood, I give the bark I will be cutting a quick brush. If I am blocking up a really big piece with multiple cuts I sometimes dont' cut all the way through so I can make multiple cuts before the round rolls. Then I roll the round or block and either continue the cut to finish or cut from the other side to finish, whichever is easier.

The key is paying attention to what is plugging the chips before it stops the saw and making the necessary adjustment. It's a lot of fun, I think. One more thing, this is a type of cut where good power is essential for productivity. No such thing as too much power with noodle cutting.


Or pick up a damaged clutch cover and trim down to just the bar mount.
 

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